Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hi all, I will be recieving 11" heat tape from the bean farm soon. I will be wiring it in a 6 hole melamine rack. Dims. are 6'h, 3'l, 2'w. This will be my first time using/wiring heat tape. The ambients in the room will get down into the mid 60's in the winter (wisconsin). My plan was to wire each shelf independantly. I will run the tape under the tub and up the back wall, which is 10" on each level. There is room behind the tub so the tape will not kink/crease where the floor meets the back wall. It will slope up the back wall, I would then secure it with foil tape. Also I'm using a tub which has feet on them, which gives me a 1/2" space under the tubs, this space could be reduced by putting 1/8" or 1/4" masonite on the shelf first and then the heat tape on top of that. I don't have a back on the rack yet, I had planned on using 1/2" paricle board, would the foil faced styrene be more efficent? All this running of off a 2 ranco thermostats. This will house 2 col. boas, 2 brazilian rain bow boas, and a pair of greentree pythons. Well that is the plan, any advice, input, modifications relavant to this setup would be most appreciated. thanx, Clint

This is a tough one for me to answer as I always have a bit of supplemental ambient heat.

I can make a best guess, though.

For the GTP I think using some sort of shim to raise the flexwatt closer to the bottom of the tub is a good idea. With the GTP you can simply place a heavy ceramic water bowl over the heated area. This will greatly increase the thermal mass and help heat the air for the arboreal snake (something flexwatt is not good at by itself). Moreover, the heat will increase the evaporation of the water, therby making the air easier to heat (moist air is easier to heat than dry air).

But for the terrestrial boas I think you want to increase the thermal mass below the tub. I've not experimented with this, but I believe if you place a piece of ceramic tile over the flexwatt (note, not the flexwatt on top of the tile) and have the tub slide over that you'll have a nice heat source underneath.

You may have to have the feet of the box slide on some strips of something if the tile is too thick. But it sounds like the rack is already complete so this is not an option. You might need to look for thinner tile or slate or something similar.

I also think expanded PVC would work but tile is probably better.

>>I don't have a back on the rack yet, I had planned on using 1/2" paricle board, would the foil faced styrene be more efficent?

Yes, absolutely. Especially if you still use the back heat in conjunction with the belly heat.

>>This will house 2 col. boas, 2 brazilian rain bow boas, and a pair of greentree pythons.

Have the BRB's on the lowest levels, then the Boas, and the GTP's on top.

The Rainbows require the coolest temps so they should go on the bottom. The GTP's will most benefit from heated air so they should go on top. The boas are leftover so put them in the middle.

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1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Hey Chris, I understand the concept of themal mass. I was hoping with 3' of heat tape per shelf I would have a surplus of heat. I've got some stone tiles in the basement I'll put them to use. Would attaching the heat tape to the ceiling of the shelf, similar to a radient heat panel be any better?? What about placing the heat tape within the tub, then the tile ontop of it? Keep me posted, I'll be completeing it this weekend. Thanx, Clint

I like Chris's reply. I just wanted to add that my snakeroom sees similar temps in Winter (low 60s), and I found it very tough to maintain an adult boa in that scenario without a cage with heat from above, like a heat panel or heat lamps. That said, you're rack might have fine temps in the back if you use thick styrene foam insulation back there, but the front will still be exposed to the low-60-something deg room temps. You may find yourself needing to simply lean a piece of styrene foam against the front of the rack to help keep the heat in. This is safe as long as you employ good quality thermostats as protection.

Good luck with your rack.
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Mark

I guess I was just wishfully think that 3' of heat tape would be enough. I'll probably end up installing some glass doors to keep the heat in. Thanx for the reply, Clint

clint, i'm really interested in finding out how your rack performes,please keep us up to date.BTW i'm in upper michigan about 2 hours NE of green bay,are you close? have fun!

The only thing I would add is to silicone your heat tape connections. They sort of crimp in place and after talking with several people I found out that it is easy for them to come loose if the crimp is not just right. One guy even started a small fire. I just crimped as good as I could and then tested to make sure the connection was good. Then gooped both sides with clear 100% silicone. Better safe than sorry
T

I'll do the silicone thing. The tape, cords, connecters and insulators came yesterday from the bean farm. With a good instruction sheet. Thanx for the heads up, I didn't decide on weather I would silicone or not. Now I will. Clint

Be careful what silicone you use on your wiring. Normal silicone cures with acetic acid that will corrode (eat) electical wires and connections. If you use silicone use the special dielectric silicone - it doesn't use acetic acid to cure. You can also use the liquid "brush on" electrical tape (it's like thin ribber cement), but make sure you use several coats to get good coverage.
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Astronomy Picture of the Day

I'm in watertown it is halfway between Madison and Milwaukee. I'll keep you folks posted. Clint

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