Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Welcome to kingsnake.com's message board system. Here you may share and discuss information with others about your favorite reptile and amphibian related topics such as care and feeding, caging requirements, permits and licenses, and more. Launched in 1997, the kingsnake.com message board system is one of the oldest and largest systems on the internet.

Click for 65% off Shipping with Reptiles 2 You
https://www.crepnw.com/
Click here to visit Classifieds

Should I glue or screw the acrylic windows in my dragon enclosure?

cee4 Sep 20, 2004 12:04 PM

Im building a big enclosure for my dragons and have acrylic windows to attach to the doors. I am afraid if I screw them in I might crack it.It is pretty thin stuff. Would glue hold it and what kind should I use? Im thinking liquid nails? Any better ideas.I already have the wood door frames made to fit I just need to attach the windows somehow..

.This is done with mostly scrap stuff and my acrylic pieces are not big enough to make into solid doors themselves only windows..
Thanks ahead
-----
.........
2.0 Ball Pythons (Titus and Hercules)
1.0 Western Hognose (Fuego)
1.1 cornsnakes (Asmodeus and Strawberry)
0.2 Bearded dragons (itchy and scratchy)
0.1 Rosehair T. (Jigglypuff)
1.0 dog BC..(Kippy)
2.1 cats (Thomas,Sunflower,Diablo(Boo))
0.0.1 Toad (squidward)

Replies (11)

burmaboy Sep 20, 2004 10:20 PM

You can screw them in if that's what you want to do.
But drill a pilot hole first.
I would make a frame around them out of wood, and the screw the wooden frame onto the acrylic window.
If you want to use a glue, you can use 100% silicone, 3M 5200, or liquid nails, or a phenoseal.

cee4 Sep 21, 2004 09:29 AM

do screw it to the wood? I only have these two pieces and if I crack one I wont be able to finish this cage..I cracked a small piece already when I tried to saw it in half..I ended up scoring it and breaking it in two and that worked. Luckily the crack is very small..I want to glue it but my dh wants to use screws and says the glue wont be strong enough to hold it...
-----
.........
2.0 Ball Pythons (Titus and Hercules)
1.0 Western Hognose (Fuego)
1.1 cornsnakes (Asmodeus and Strawberry)
0.2 Bearded dragons (itchy and scratchy)
0.1 Rosehair T. (Jigglypuff)
1.0 dog BC..(Kippy)
2.1 cats (Thomas,Sunflower,Diablo(Boo))
0.0.1 Toad (squidward)

chris_harper2 Sep 21, 2004 10:26 AM

I'm assuming you don't know the actual brand of acrylic, but if it's the inexpensive 1/8" stuff available from home improvement centers then it is likely to crack if drilled.

A combination of offset mirror clips and adhesive should hold the door sufficiently.

If you can route recessed area into the door frame then you can use some flush clips to hold the acrylic.
-----
Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

burmaboy Sep 21, 2004 05:30 PM

Hey Chris...good idea with the mirror clips.
If you start with a teeny tny drill bit, and work your way up, it should'nt crack. Another way...take an old drill bit, heat it till red hot, and melt a pilot hole. Not the neatest way, but works.

Bigtattoo Sep 22, 2004 07:46 AM

I find when trying to drill acrylic it's best to use a type of drill bit called a brad point instead of a regular high speed steel one. The brad point has a point in the center and the outer flutes start cutting the hole from the outside in rather than the other way around. These can be easily found in the drill section of your LHIC and come in a the same basic sizes as the HSS bits.
-----
Hope this helps.

BigT

chris_harper2 Sep 22, 2004 11:07 AM

BigT,

I've had better luck with titanium bits. However, it's quite possible that any brad point bits I've tried were well worn as they seem suspceptible to that.

Burmboy,

Of your two suggestions I prefer melting the holes. I say this assuming the original poster has some of that cheap 1/8" acrylic you buy at Home Depot and other HIC's. That is really lousy acrylic and is very difficult to drill without crazing (micro-cracks then tend to become larger over time). Melting holes will prevent crazing.

For melting holes I use a nail slightly smaller in diameter than the screw that will be used. Melted holes tend to come out larger as I'm sure you know.

Regarding drilling, starting with a small bit *should* work. But it sounds like the original poster really needs this panel to work so I think melting or mirror clips is a safer choice.

And since it sounds like money is an issue with this project melting will certainly be cheaper than mirror clips. Mirror clips will be a better choice if the holes need to be within 1/2" of the acrylic edge.
-----
Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

cee4 Sep 22, 2004 03:17 PM

thats the stuff I have...Maybe someday I can eventually buy the more expensive stuff and do it right. But for now this will have to do..I think we will go with melting the hole and then screwing it in..Thanks for the advice..I do appreciate all the help one gets on these boards..My dragons thank you as they are getting crowded in thier current enclosure.It happens to be a 55 gal rubbermaid on its side with a wooden frame and a slide in acrylic piece, Thanks to the pic that I got from one you made right on this board..It will become my bp new home as soon as the new bd cage is completed..Maybe I can get some pics up when Im done, though it is by no means a professional job..
-----
.........
2.0 Ball Pythons (Titus and Hercules)
1.0 Western Hognose (Fuego)
1.1 cornsnakes (Asmodeus and Strawberry)
0.2 Bearded dragons (itchy and scratchy)
0.1 Rosehair T. (Jigglypuff)
1.0 dog BC..(Kippy)
2.1 cats (Thomas,Sunflower,Diablo(Boo))
0.0.1 Toad (squidward)

chris_harper2 Sep 22, 2004 04:02 PM

I'd like to see a picture of the Bearded Dragon's current cage as well. I'm always curious to see different incarnations of the storage tote design.

You can e-mail it to me if that's easier. You'll have to click on my name-link and wait for a response before you can attach it.

I'm guessing you're using the black 55 gallon tote from Lowes? That's the box I'll use for my next project so I'm even more curious.

Back to your current project. It won't take much to keep the Dragons contained so don't be too aggressive with the screws. No sense in ruining the acrylic you already have.
-----
Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

cee4 Sep 23, 2004 11:50 AM

These are not good photos and the enclosure is less than perfect but it works. The acrylic door that slides up and down is a pain to work because of the cheap acrylic but it is also cheap to replace when scratched up..I dont think we used a 55 gal but a 35gal maybe. I also cant get to lowes its like 2hrs away.I bought this tub from a local drugstore and it cost me 14.99.. Its 33inches long and 20inches deep.
The new enclosure will be much bigger..

-----
.........
2.0 Ball Pythons (Titus and Hercules)
1.0 Western Hognose (Fuego)
1.1 cornsnakes (Asmodeus and Strawberry)
0.2 Bearded dragons (itchy and scratchy)
0.1 Rosehair T. (Jigglypuff)
1.0 dog BC..(Kippy)
2.1 cats (Thomas,Sunflower,Diablo(Boo))
0.0.1 Toad (squidward)

cee4 Sep 23, 2004 11:51 AM

another one

-----
.........
2.0 Ball Pythons (Titus and Hercules)
1.0 Western Hognose (Fuego)
1.1 cornsnakes (Asmodeus and Strawberry)
0.2 Bearded dragons (itchy and scratchy)
0.1 Rosehair T. (Jigglypuff)
1.0 dog BC..(Kippy)
2.1 cats (Thomas,Sunflower,Diablo(Boo))
0.0.1 Toad (squidward)

chris_harper2 Sep 23, 2004 12:03 PM

Hey thanks, I appreciate that. That will make for a very nice ball python cage.

Regarding the door, you could always add some cheap glass track for 1/4" glass. That would be pretty cheap and more secure for a BP.
-----
Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Site Tools