Reptile & Amphibian Forums

When you made the frame that holds the netting on the top of the cage, behind the false ceiling, how did you attach it to the cage? Is it just resting on the lip on the back?

Could the same thing be done by screwing the 1 by 1s into the front and back of the cage directly? Do you then place domes directly onto the netting? (like one would with a wire top cage) or did you install light fixtures on the top of the cage?

Thanks for your help!

Elizabeth
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1.0 Uro Archimedes
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin

You can attach the screen from underneath the rails with either a staple gun or screws with washers.

My preference for the heat lamps is ceramic fixtures like those often found for basement lighting mounted on metal electrical boxes. The boxes dissapate the heat from the wood and allow room for wiring inside. These should be mounted downward facing. Be sure to use proper connectors and heavy enough wiring to handle the electrical load. I would recommend 12/3 wire, that's 12 gauge 3 wires, the type that heavy extension cords are made from. These can be connected to the boxes with romex connectors which will securely clamp the wire to the boxes. Leave access from behind to get to lighting for bulb changes etc. A good way to do this is with sliding doors made from peg board material.

Fluorescent lamps can rest directly on the screen but I prefer to screw the case to the top of the enclosure. Again be sure to do your wiring with approved electrical boxes and connectors like wire nuts. You can't be too safe with wiring lighting/heating for your cages. Better safe than burned down.
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Hope this helps.

BigT

>>My preference for the heat lamps is ceramic fixtures like those often found for basement lighting mounted on metal electrical boxes.

That's what I use for heating elements that don't get crazy hot. Maybe up to a 100 watt Pearlco.

>>These should be mounted downward facing.

Yes, that's a very good point. With the Uroplatus cage we were only using those self-ballasted, spiral twist household bulbs. With those or even standard incandescents a horizontal application is okay. But with most lights or heating elements the poster will use with Uromastyx they should be directed downward.

Thanks for pointing that out.

For the higher wattage ceramic heating elements I play it safe and don't use the basement-type light fixtures.

Instead I find an electric box cover that has a hole of about 1" diameter in the middle. It turns out the heavy duty ceramic fixtures from dome lights can be screwed together with these covers sandwiched inbetween. Then I just screw the cover onto the box normally.

It ends up saving a bit of space which I need in my Bearded cage due to its low false ceiling.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Cool idea I never thought of that one. It would be a much lower profile.
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Hope this helps.

BigT

>>When you made the frame that holds the netting on the top of the cage, behind the false ceiling, how did you attach it to the cage? Is it just resting on the lip on the back?

The frame was constructued separately. Two 48" pieces and then four "cross" pieces, about 27" each that stretched in between. The frame was assembled with 2" drywall screws and wood glue.

Then 1.5" screws were drilled through this frame and into the plywood sides, back panel, and front upper lip of the cage.

1/8" hardware cloth was stapled on top of the screen. I can't remember if we did this step after the frame was attached to the cage or before.

My making the frame in these steps we were insuring it would be escape proof for a Jungle/Diamond Python cross.

>>Could the same thing be done by screwing the 1 by 1s into the front and back of the cage directly?

Yes, but I'd make the frame first.

Do you then place domes directly onto the netting? (like one would with a wire top cage) or did you install light fixtures on the top of the cage?

The cage ended up holding a group of Uroplatus henkeli that need minimal supplemental heat if any. So we simply wired some light fixtures onto the the back of the front upper lip.

The is plenty of room to rest small dome fixtures directly on top of the hardware cloth.

For reference, the false ceiling area is 48" x 30" x 8".
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Thank you for your continued help!

Elizabeth
-----
1.0 Uro Archimedes
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin