Reptile & Amphibian Forums

have a baby albino that has been refusing to eat. had now for about 2 months, cage settings are good for both temp and humidity. already talked to vet in my area and he said not to be worried until about 3 months and that it is just getting used to its new environment. i have tried feeding already, it does attack and wrap it but afterwards it just sits there or curls up and does nothing. i have heard of force feeding, which i really dont want to do, or i was hoping you could give some other options.

thanks,
Joe

I would just give it some more time. Force feeding should be an absolute last resort. If the snake is showing interest by at least constricting it, it will probably eat when it is ready. Just try it every so often, 5 days or so, and im sure it will finish the meal off when its ready.
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1.0 Albino Green Burm
0.2 Normal Burm
1.1 Java Retic

If this was an adult, I wouldn't worry; however, hatchling burms are typically eager feeders and they usually need a month to acclimate. You mentioned your temps/humidity levels are fine; what are they? There is so much awful information on the internet (and from forum contributors) that I cringe when I read half the stuff that is out there. Give us some specifics: temp on warm end, temp on cool end, humidity level, ambient air temp, etc. Are you providing a hide area on both sides of the cage? If so, I would highly recommend that. Keep your handling to a bare minimum until the snake is feeding regularly. Try feeding when the snake is in its hide area and offer a f/t and rewarmed adult mouse on long tongs. I usually like to slowly wiggle the dead rodent in front of the hide entrance to elicit an abmush strike. For a stubborn feeder, I will do this at night or when the lights are greatly subdued. Hope this helps.

Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
City of Lake Forest Parks & Recreation (IL)

i only had 1 hide but now she has 2. temp on hot side is 85 and 80 on cool side. humidity is 70%. these are pretty easy to maintain because it is not a big cage. i was told that they can grow to about 6 feet in the first year so i just got a smaller one to acclimatize it and eaze of temp settings. i dont handle her unless it is to move her from tank to eating box. i am building a bigger one and as soon as she starts eating regularyly i will move her to that one. i guess i am just worried because she is looking a little thin. i havent had this problem before with the ball i have and i am just wondering will she have the energy to eat if this goes on much longer. thankyou both who responded to this, i appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions.

Are you feeding it frozen thawed? My burm used to do that, constrict but not eat. All I had to do was reheat the food not too hot, but so that it stayed warmer for longer. It seemed that when he finished constricting it was already too cold for him to see it as food/want to eat it. I could be wrong though.
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0.1.0 Columbian boa constrictor
1.0.0 Albino burmese python
1.0.0 Pine/bull snake hybrid
0.1.0 Ball python
3.0.0 Cornsnake (anerythristic, snow, normal)
0.0.1 Cali kingsnake
0.0.1 Rainwater albino leopard gecko
1.0.0 Tokay gecko
1.0.0 Bahama anole
0.0.1 Red eared slider
1.4.0 Cat
4.3.0 Bird
1.0.0 Dog

have you tried feeding in the enclosure?? If it starts eating regularly in its enclosure than you could feed it in another container...i would rather have to feed in the enclosure than have it not eat at all.....

good luck

Jason

When one is dealing with any of the large species of boids, regardless of its current age, they should be always fed within its enclosure. There are so many variables that show that feeding outside of its enclosure is extremely stressing on the snake and eventually will be quite dangerous to yourself.
First off feeding outside of the enclosure places the keeper in a large amount of potential danger, once the snake is larger(over 10'). Most snakes will continue to search and actively hunt for food once its prey has been consumed. When you present yourself to the snake to relocate it back into its enclosure then it is quite feasible (and in my opinion a guarantee eventually) that your snake will misidetnify you or a part of you as its next prey item and then you have a dangerous and possibly lethal situation on your hands.
When ever you handle your snake after feeding it is adding extreme amounts of stress on your animal. This can easily result in the regurgitation of the prey. Also, the snake is most comfortable within its enclosure so it would only make sense that it would be most apt to eat if it was in a calm place that it was used to.
As long as you handle the snake regularly and interact with it often then your snake will not become conditioned to the door opening with feeding time. It is really the best and proper way to feed all large snakes. Todd

well said....I'm not totally convinced of the whole feeding response idea....i feed some in cage and some not in cage..and they all act the same for me...

Jason

Very well said. I completely agree.
-Cathy
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Cathy Hrusa
poetichusky@hotmail.

~My Ever-growing herp Collection~
1.0 Albino Green Burmese Python
0.1 Green Het for Albino Burmese Python
1.0 Het for Albino Ball Python
0.1 Bearded Dragon
0.0.3 Normal Leopard geckos
0.0.1 Albino Leopard Gecko
0.1 FL Cooter
1.0 Sunburst X Blue Veiled Chameleon

are you there wen it is lettuing go of the prey and does it look at you if it does then get a box and put it in there or cover its cage so it feels more secure i had a burm like that once only ate in a bag