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I've recently had a Blue Tongue Skink (Frank) donated to my classroom. I just want to make sure I'm doing everything right. His cage is about 3 feet by 3 feet and about 1 foot high. It's made out of black mesh. There is a stand that holds his basking light. I have a bark substate which is a couple of inches deep. He has a shallow water dish (on the opposite side of the tank that his light is on.) and a log to hide under. On sunny days we go outside and bask in the sun. I'm concerned about his food. He will only eat can cat food. I mix a calcium powder into it. I've tried mixing different greens with the cat food but he eats around them. Plus he doesn't eat very much or very often. (A teaspoon or so once a week.) I want to make sure that he is getting everything he needs. He did come to me with a cut on his lip but that has healed and he looking great. He just shed his skin last week. My experience is with turtle and frogs. He is my first big lizard. My students adore him and I want to make sure I'm doing everything right. Any advice or hints anyone has would be great.

If by mesh you mean an all screen cage this is not a good idea for a bts. It can lead to nose rubs and then those get ingected, its just not a good idea. But the good news is your cage is more than big enough. Bark is a good choice as long as it isn't cedar or pine. I use cypress which is absorent and burrows easily. Dog food is much better than cat because cats are more carnivorous. ANd there is a higher meat content in their food. Try live feeder insects they will eat bacically any feeder insect you can buy. If he starts losing too much weight feed some inects high in fat like butterworms or wax worms. But only feed these as and occasinal "treat". Dry food is never a bad idea. And Zoo med iguana diet is a good choice for a bts. For veggies(fruits sparingly) two suggestions. Only sneak in very small amounts into his food. And gradually ad more and more. Try and find a veggie he likes and then you can mix others in iwth that also. ALways try and strive for variety in their diet. Good luck. If you have any more questions...

When mixing in the veggies, try cutting the veggies into very tiny pieces so that the bts will be less likely to notice them. That's what I did with my juv. box turtle and now he eats quite a bit of veggies without being picky.

np

Blue-tongued Skinks of the genus Tiliqua have been in the reptile hobby for many years, and until recently they have managed to remain underrated, or unknown to most reptile hobbyists. Blue-tongues are starting to see the popularity that they have long since deserved, and this is not without good reason. These large skinks have simple caging requirements, easy going personalities, and a willingness to eat almost anything, which makes them a truly great pet lizard for any reptile enthusiasts. I have kept these fascinating lizards for many years, and I am still amazed by their curiosity and their ability to learn and adapt. Blue-tongued Skinks are hearty long-lived lizards that are, in my opinion, the ultimate lizard pet.
Blue-tongued Skinks get their common name from their bright blue tongue, which they display when startled or threatened in an effort to frighten off a perceived threat. The genus Tiliqua is composed of six different species, all of which, with the exception of the Pygmy Blue-tongue, are very similar in appearance. Blue-tongues are medium-large (14-27 inches), heavy-bodied lizards. They have long sausage-like bodies, large triangular heads, and relatively short stocky tails. Their short limbs and tiny feet seem too small for their bodies, giving them an awkward and sometimes comical appearance.
Blue-tongues can be found throughout Australia, and many of its surrounding islands, including: Tazmania, New Guinea, and a large number of Indonesian islands. Blue-tongues have adapted to survive in a wide range of habitats, from semi-arid scrub-lands to montane forests; and from arid deserts to sub-humid tropical forests. Blue-tongues are diurnal (day active) lizards that have adapted to a terrestrial (ground dwelling) lifestyle, often sheltering in animal burrows, log hollows, and under discarded sheets of metal. All six species are viviparous (live bearing).
These are relatively long lived lizards, and it is not unusual for a Blue-tongued Skink to live 15-20 years, and even possibly well into its 30's. I know of a Blue-tongue named Rosie that was 28 years old the last time that I saw her, and she is now 33, assuming she is still with us.
Custom enclosures: I house my skinks separately in custom built 3'L x 16"D x 15"H melamine enclosures that are comparable in price, more functional, and visually more pleasing than the common glass aquarium style reptile cage. Melamine is an easy to clean surface that also provides good insulation from extreme temperatures. I use 1/4-inch sliding glass bypass doors for easy access, and 1/4-inch pegboard, which provides my skinks with adequate ventilation while maintaining constant temperatures.
Blue-tongues like to hide on occasion, so it is important to provide them with some kind of shelter. I like to use hide logs because the skinks have the opportunity to bask on them when they want to warm up, or hide in them when they want to feel secure or sleep. Aside from their water bowl, they will not need any other furnishings.
Newspaper, Care-fresh, and artificial turf have all proven to suitable substrates for me in the past. I have also heard good things about cypress mulch and coconut husk from other hobbyists.
Blue-tongues will often burrow in their substrate if given the opportunity (especially when kept in a glass tank). They do this simply out of convenience, in an effort to get under something and out of sight from potential dangers. Blue-tongues are not burrowing lizards by nature, rather they are opportunistic shelter seekers that do not need a substrate to burrow in if given appropriate hides and an enclosure that provides them with some sense of security. I avoid orchid bark, sand, crushed walnut shell, and aspen bedding because of the many health risks that they pose, including: skin and respiratory problems, accidental ingestion and impaction, and unwanted foreign invasion into the eyes and nostrils. Many of these, but not all, are also messy and quite impractical. Never use cedar chips due to the toxic oils that they secrete.
Lights and heat: There are many opinions in regards to Lizards and full spectrum lighting. While it hasn't been proven that it is absolutely necessary for the proper development of a Blue-tongued Skink. I would much rather play it safe than sorry, and I still believe that the potential psychological and physiological benefits of full spectrum lighting make it well worth the effort. A 12/12 photo-period can be maintained with the use of a household appliance timer. I maintain this photo-period for the entire year, with the exception of when I am cycling my skinks for breeding. A thermogradiant should be established in the cage by providing a basking site of 90-95 degrees at one end of the enclosure while maintaining temperatures of 80-85 degrees at the cool end. This can be accomplished by using a spotlight of appropriate wattage or under tank heating pad, and it will allow the skink to control its body temperature by means of thermoregulation. Night-time temperatures normally should not drop below 75 degrees.
Water: Clean water should always be available in a container that is heavy and stable enough to prevent the skink from tipping it over.
Food: In the wild, Blue-tongues are opportunistic feeders. This adaptation suits their omnivorous tastes well, enabling them to eat almost anything that they come across. In the wild they will eat arthropods, snails, baby rodents, and other small animals. Blue-tongues also take advantage of the native fruits, flowers, and grasses, readily consuming them when available. In captivity, I do my best to duplicate the Blue-tongue's natural diet. I have devised a skink mix that makes up for the majority of their diet. This mix is easy to freeze and store in individual zip lock bags. I try to maintain a ratio of 50-60% animal matter to 40-50% Plant matter in their mix. I always try to include new ingredients, when making the mix, so that it is never exactly the same. These are some of the items that I frequently use in my mix.
Animal matter: Canned premium cat or dog food (I usually use chicken flavored cat food), moistened monkey chow, ground turkey, dry premium dog or cat food (moistened), hard boiled eggs (sparingly), lean cuts of meat, boiled chicken, caned reptile diets.
Plant matter: Chopped mustard, collard, beet, and turnip greens. Dandelion greens and flowers, hibiscus flowers (take care that no pesticides or herbicides are present). Chopped kale (sparingly), fresh, canned, and thawed frozen fruits. Canned or frozen mixed vegetables (peas, carrots, corn, and green beans). Grated squash, carrots, apples, and potatoes. Moistened iguana diet, and cooked pasta.
Most insects are readily accepted by Blue-tongues. You can purchase crickets at most pet stores, and they are available in bulk through a large number of mail order companies that advertise in reptile related magazines. Also available are mealworms, superworms, waxworms, and earthworms. Snails are also relished with delight by most Blue-tongues. If you are feeding insects or snails, that you have collected, to your skink, it is important to make sure that there is no chance of them being contaminated with pesticides. Rat-pups are great for skinks that are a bit thin and need to put on some weight, while young adult mice make an excellent weekly supplement for gravid females.
Supplementation: A quality calcium supplement with vitamin D3 is an important factor in maintaining most lizards, including Blue-tongued Skinks. Make sure it is phosphorous free, and do not over supplement. Sprinkle a small amount on the food every other feeding for babies and gravid females, and every third feeding for all other adults. If given a varied diet, Blue-tongues will not need any other vitamin or mineral supplements.