Reptile & Amphibian Forums

OK ya'll, I'm about the do thing flexwatt thing. Here's how I plan to do it. please let me know if I'm good:

I know black is hot and white is common but for this models purposes I'll use red for hot and black for common.

DZ

You shouldn't need both the dimmer and the thermostat. One or the other should do. The thermostat if it has a sensing probe or if it is mounted in the enclosure should turn on/off the electric supply to the flexwatt as needed for the preset temp.

The dimmer would work by itself but you need to monitor your temps, cooler room temps would require you to turn up the dimmer, warmer temps turn it down as the dimmer would supply a constant source of electricity. This would be sort of a manual thermostat.

Just be sure the thermostat you use is rated for AC current, many household thermostats need a DC transformer for them to work properly.

BigT
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Hope this helps.

BigT
There is a difference between ignorance and stupidity. The ignorant can be taught, stupidity is beyond our control.

Thanx! The AC/DC current issue has been explained but not in a way that made sense. They only mentioned type of stat with no explaination so I didn't know what other questions to ask. As for both dimmer and stat, I'll use the dimmer to control the output so it always puts out around 85-90 degrees. The stat will turn it on and off when needed. Otherwise the flexwatt could reach 140 before the stat reads the temps and cook the snake.

DZ

OK ya'll, I'm about the do thing flexwatt thing. Here's how I plan to do it. please let me know if I'm good:

I know black is hot and white is common but for this models purposes I'll use red for hot and black for common.

DZ

Ok something i see wrong is the wiring of the dimmer inline BEFORE the thermostat.By reducing poer to the thermostat you are reallu effecting the output to the heat tape.When i use a dimmer i use the dimmer AFTER the stat ( johnson control on/off type) Now depending on the type of stat you have whether its a pulse proportional or a on.off type will make a difference in how you wire it up.If its a pulse propertional you wont need the dimmer.If its a on/off you will use the dimmer to reduce the flow of electricity to the flexwatt and this will allow the flexwatt to be dialed in to a constant temp of your liking.this will in effect keep the (on/off type thermostat) from clicking on/off alot as the temps can be dialed to the desired setting of the thermostat and not go over it causing it to go on/off so much. I re did your drawing to show how to wire it inline with a on off style stat.

As shown above when used on a on/off this will allo the dimmer to have FULL power to it at all times ( unless the stat kicks it off) this will allow you as stated aboce to dial in the power to the tape.Without a dimmer on flex it will get between 105-125 0r so in this way it will be used as a belly heat you want to be able to dial it down and keep it at say 88-92. thats what the dimmer will do . Now depending on the type of thermostat you will be using on/off or pulse proportional will effect howthe dimmer operates.I use the johnson controls stat which allows me to set a high point /low point on my high point i can set the temp at say 88 then give it a max temp of 92 to shut off at.so when using a dimmer i dial my dimmer to get the flexwatt to 88 or so and it will stay there all the time only time it gets cut off or temp changes is when A- the ambients rise above 92 or B-when i dial it down for night drops . hope this helps a little and if you can let me know your thermostat you are using i can elmorate more on this wiring
Alan
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Visit the new website while the Jungle gets made over.

I skimmed his post and I can't think of anything to add.

I like the idea of the air space AND the flexwatt resting on ventilated peg board.

If you have the space a small piece of the foil/bubble insulation between the pegboard and flexwatt will direct a lot of the heat upwards.

As you know I'd recommend expanded PVC over linoleum for under tank heating but that's not a huge deal.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Thanx guys! I feel pretty confident I can safely use this stuff I've had for more than half a year. I'm not sure if I'll put it underneath or from the side of the cage but the principles are still the same. If underneath, I have some thin (ruler sized) pieces of aluminum to use as support under the covering. I'll try to find PVCX but no-one around here knows what that is. Do you know of a site on-line that sells it? I've seen one but forgot who they were.

I'll let you know how it turns out. If I do it to my large cage it'll take awhile as a major renovation will be neccessary.

DZ

>>I'll try to find PVCX but no-one around here knows what that is.

That's probably my fault, at least in part. PVCX is an acronym used to avoid writing out any of the multitude of various trade names for expanded PVC.

If you ask for PVCX anywhere nobody will know what it is, well except for maybe here.

If you have plastic distributors in your area call and ask for either expanded PVC or Sintra. The latter is the most common brand name used.

If you call sign shops you'll certainly have to ask for Sintra, even if that is not the exact product they carry. No different than asking for Formica at Home Depot when they really carry a generic brand of counter laminate.

>>Do you know of a site on-line that sells it?

USPlastics is the safe choice but I've heard Tap Plastics also carries it.

Regardless, linoleum will also work. I do think PVCX is easier to clean and conducts heat better.

I'll e-mail this to you as well to make sure you get this information.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

DZ