Reptile & Amphibian Forums

OK, so as my woodworking experience is coming to a close, the next phase of this cage process begins... Heat control.

I currently use a ceramic heat emitter, a basking spot light, and a uvb bulb. I may switch back to 2 basking lights since I have been reading up on the relationship between light and heat in Uromastyx brains.

In an ideal world I would like a set up that can read the current temp(s) in the tank, and make the appropriate changes. I am mostly concerned about the hot side of the tank, though the cool side temps are important. An example of what I am talking about would be in the summer when I have the air conditioning on, the lights have to provide a lot of heat. If the air conditioner should suddenly break while I am at work, I want the new system to be able to adjust the tank temperature accordingly.

If I knew little about woodworking, I know next to nothing about electrical circuits. How do I set this up? What do I need? I do own a multimeter, but I am not sure exactly where it is... lol

Thanks for your help!

Elizabeth
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1.0 Uro Archimedes
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin

I forgot, I also need to set up some sort of timer into the system so that the appropriate lights turn off at night.
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1.0 Uro Archimedes
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin

This question is asked every week, and I try to answer along with Chris Harper every week. Please follow the link below for some info, and visit past threads for other hints and tips. Then, you can be more specific in your question.

Alot depends on the animals you are housing, the room background temps, and other factors.

In a nutshell:

For non-light-emiiting heaters (pads, Flexwatt, ceramic bulbs and heat panels) the BEST control is a proportional unit e.g. Helix DBS1000, Big Apple Herp Power controller, etc. Pricey, but the best. After that, a dimmer in line with an ON/OFF thermostat is good. See www.beanfarm.com for both types of thermostat.

For light-emiiting heaters, an ON/OFF thermostat is great (although the Helix proportional can in fact be used with light bulbs too).

Also, the term rheostat is technically incorrect for a dimmer. They are all controllers. One type is manual (dimmer), one type is ON/OFF (e.g. A-Life and ESU thermostats) and the thrid type is proportional (Helix, Big Apple).

Other threads

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Mark

Thank you for the link Mark. I have been lurking on the forum for some time now and have seen many answers to individual problems regarding this topic, but had not seen anything that specifically discussed the basic theory of how all this went together. I do apologize for asking a popular question, and appreciate your help.

Elizabeth
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1.0 Uro Archimedes
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin

Oh, don't apologize for asking questions. I hope you learned a little from the answer, and if you have a specific question about heating a certain cage housing a certain animal, then please ask this forum for help.

Heating is often the last thing anyone worries about when setting up a cage for a reptile, yet it is often the most important thing to consider.
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Mark

I have read the posts, and understand that a thermostat is an "on/off" automatic, and that a dimmer is a "variable on" manual, and that flexwatt heat tape should always be used with a dimmer (though, as described in the previous post that knowledge is not particularly pertinent). What I need is a 101 on setting these up. How do you hook up multiple lights to one thermostat, is that even appropriate? How do you place the sensors? How do you avoid having wires within chomping distance of the inhabitant (a Uromastyx)? How do you make sure your not creating a fire hazard? These are the questions of where I am now, if they have already been answered I apologize, but I did look through the archives...

Elizabeth
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1.0 Uro Archimedes
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin

I'm in a bit of a hurry but want to comment that there are specific issues for Uromastyx lizards.

It is likely that UV lights are important to these species. It is certainly important that light intensity is. To achieve either you need florescent or mercury vapor fixtures. Of the two mercury vapors provide both a lot of light intensity as well as UV.

Neither florescents nor MVBs can be controlled via a thermostat unless you have an emergency thermostat that shuts down the entire system in case of extreme overheating. Probably not necessary.

The only lights that can be controlled with a thermostat are halogens and incandescents, neither of which are that useful for Uros since they don't produce any signficiant UV and not much more visible light.

Mercury vapor bulbs do produce heat, especially the self-ballasted ones. If you use those you'll want to find an appropriate wattage that won't overheat your cage at any time of the year. Preferably one that will produce slightly less than your desired basking temps. With your false ceiling design you can probably handle a pretty high wattage bulb as long as it's deemed safe to be that close to a Uro.

Then you can provide supplemental basking heat with a ceramic heat emitter. This can also provide some night time heat if you need it (unlikely with a Uro).

But I don't like self-ballasted MVB's as the heat burns them out. Instead use one of the externally ballasted varieties. They produce a bit of heat. The rest of your heat can come from ceramic heat emitters.

I think that's the ideal setup for Uros. An externally ballasted MVB along with a CHE.

Sorry, no time to comment on wiring.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Thanks Chris, for taking the time to comment even though you were in a rush. I am going to stick with my fluorescents and incandescent bulbs. I am not comfortable having the MVBs in my house since I already have a metal sensitivity. I am not expecting the thermostat to effect the fluorescent blub, though it does need to be on a timer of some sort. I really just need to know how to wire everything together. A couple of incandescents and probably a ceramic heat emitter for ambient heat (since I keep my house quite cool).

Thanks again!

Elizabeth
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1.0 Uro Archimedes
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin

I can understand why you'd want to avoid MVB's. I'm not completely comfortable with them but my GF's bearded dragon really does better under them.

I tried putting him outside several times a week this summer and then just using a regular Reptisun 5.0 in his cage but he was still not as active as with the MVB.

I'm currently shopping for a MVB to use.

At any rate, I'm not very comfortable giving out wiring advice. It's not hard. Worse case scenario is that you use dome lamps and just plug them into thermostats.

Lastly, can you use halogens for a light/heat source or will those also be unsafe for your condition? I believe those will be better for a Uro given their extreme temp requirements.

Regardless, you don't have a lot to worry about if you use pre-wired fixtures.

Have a multi-strip outlet plugged into a timer. Make sure both are rated for the amount of wattage you will use.

Plug your florescent into the strip. Also plug your thermostat into the strip. Then plug your incandescant fixture into the thermostat.

Only "problem" with the above method is that all light AND heat sources are shut off at night. Not a big deal for Uros unless your room gets very cold in winter.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Go to Wal-mart and look in the hardware department. They have digital thermometers with two probes and humidity for under $15. If you want a thermostat go to Big Apple Herp but if you are just wanting a rheostat once again go to Wal-mart and in the hardware department they have a plug in lamp dimmer for around $10 dollars. I use both the products from Wal-mart and they work great for my snakes. Hope this helps.
Pat

Look down farther where I asked Chris Harper and Jungle habitats. I posted a drawing and JH tweeked it for me.

DZ