Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Now that we are getting close to hibernation, I have the following questions I'm hoping some of the more experienced here can help me with.

For WC Adults (DHL's)...
1. What is required for pre-hibernation feeding? In my snakes, I always pound them with food a couple of months before I put them under...making sure that they are "fat" and their stomachs are empty before doing so. Is it the same for the DHL's? How do you know when they are "fat"...tail & rearleg thickness?

2. What are the basic hibernation environments/techniques required? I've tried hibernating Collared Lizards and Leopard Lizards before, but I've found they get too restless and become somewhat emanciated during hibernation. I've always had to bring them out early if I want to keep them healthy...then they don't breed well at all.

3. When hibernated properly, how often do you wake them to check on them, and water them? For my tortoises (which are legally registered), I wake them up about every 3 weeks and make sure they get a chance to re-hydrate. For the snakes, I hibernate them with water in the cage, so hydration is not an issue. What's the standard for the DHL's in this area.

For CB Hatchlings....
1. Should they even be hibernated their first year? If so, what's their requirements. I don't hibernate my baby snakes or tortoises their 1st year...not enough fat reserves. Instead, I keep them very warm, active and feeding. I wait for the 2nd year to introduce them to that stress.....what's the thought out there on the DHL's.

Thanks,
Roger

Hello Roger,

A horned lizard will surely benefit from getting "pounded with food" before hibernation. I'd suggest a few waxworms, beetles, and other insects like this. I notice that in my lizards that leg thickness is an indicator of good health, so you're right in that. Make sure they have plenty of water. There are studies that have lately been stressing the importance of water in a healthy HL.

There is no "golden way" to hibernate desert lizards. Mine live outside all year long, and from what you said about Tortoises, I think you live in the DHL's natural range. I allow mine to just dig in, and wake up in early March, on their own, when it gets warm again. I imagine you could do something like this if you wanted. Another idea is to check Cable's page, and click on Platyrhinos husbandry. It has breeding and hibernation info. from another keeper.

You probably can leave them alone with water in their cage, or slightly dampen their sand every once in three weeks, to allow them to re-hydrate through their skin. If you do this, watch how much water you add on the sand, a friend lost a Collared lizard to respiratory infection in this way.

If you can get food throughout the winter, don't hibernate hatchlings, for exactly the same reason as you don't with your snakes and torts. HLs hate stress, so keep 'em up, fed, and growing. Hibernate them the next winter, because chances are they'll be mature at that time. I hope I was of some help. Again, if you have anymore questions, we will do what we can to help. I hope your DHLs do very well this year.

-Phil

Very good info there. Thankyou very much.

One real supprise was the technique for using pea gravel and water as the base substrate. Not sure what to think of that.

And 22 eggs in a single clutch from a DHL, with a 90% hatch rate....all I can say is WOW!

Thanks,
Roger

FYI...Hibernation Update...1 month into hibernation now. My adult female has dug in deep under the sand. We don't see her at all. Daily temp is 65-75F, nite time is