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I'm buying these 4x2x2 melamine cages...basically i can't beat the price. The only thing is I am having problems with ideas for heating these guys. I could always go with heat panels but the price is gonna rape my wallet. I have some extra heat tape lying around but I wouldn't know how to go about setting it up in a wooden enclosure. Also what sucks is i have them all sectioned in one foot already wired pieces

My plan was to lay the heat tape on the floor and then place some PVC on top of it. But i feel like that is a fire hazard.

My next idea was to use the incadecent(?) sockets that it already has and use ceramic heaters with some wire guards.

Any Ideas?

thanks
John
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"You can't appreciate Shakespeare until you've read him in the original Klingon."

Need some more info here. What you plan on keeping in the cage, makes a world of difference in your options.

Sorry about that. I plan on keeping Boas(BCI) in them.

One more note. I'm sure it will change things. I was also looking into putting a shelf in the cage. A 12inch shelf all the way across the back wall. If this complicates things then disreguard the shelf.

thanks John
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"You can't appreciate Shakespeare until you've read him in the original Klingon."

I'm not a huge fan of belly heat only for larger snakes, but if you already have wired flexwatt you should use it.

Use a circular saw to cut a large rectangle out of the bottom of your floor. It should not come within 2" of the cage sides as to maintain structural integrity.

Make the rectangle 2" longer and wider than the piece of tape you'll be using. So if you have a section that is 11" x 12", make the opening 13" x 14".

In your case you might want to leave enough space for more than one piece of flexwatt.

Now cover the entire floor with 1/4" expanded PVC, not regular PVC. The pieces of flexwatt can be taped underneath the PVC.

Rest the cages on thin strips of wood. This will maintain the air space and leave room for the cords to come out the back and not be crushed.

You could also cut in a small groove from the opening to the back of the cage. The cord can rest here.

If you're room is very cold you'll likely have to provide heat geared towards heating the air. But at least now you'll be using a product you already have AND making the floor more durable and easier to clean.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Thanks for the reply.

What did you mean by ONLY belly heat? Do you suggest using multiple heat sources? If so could you give me an example. If it has to be done I can Save the money and do it right.

The coldest my cages has ever gotten in the middle of the winter was 70F(that was the cool end). I have my Boas in boaphile 3x2x1 and all it has is belly heat; it provides an excellent gradient. I would go with them again, but they cost like 4x times what I'm getting these melamine cages for.

Thank for your time..
John
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"You can't appreciate Shakespeare until you've read him in the original Klingon."

>>What did you mean by ONLY belly heat?

What I mean is that I don't like belly heat as the ONLY heat source for a cage. That is unless there is already significant ambient room heat, or if the cage has a lot of thermal mass.

>>Do you suggest using multiple heat sources?

Not necessarily. In a cool room a heat source from overhead does a lot to heat the air of the cage. Those can be radiant heat panels, ceramic heat emitters, or light bulbs.

>>The coldest my cages has ever gotten in the middle of the winter was 70F(that was the cool end). I have my Boas in boaphile 3x2x1 and all it has is belly heat; it provides an excellent gradient.

That tells me a lot right there. Boaphiles are (or were?) made from expanded PVC - a material that provides a lot of thermal mass to a cage.

Adding expanded PVC to the floor of a melamine snake cage is always a good idea, especially one with higher humidity requirements. With my floor cutout idea the flexwatt will have an air space and the PVCX will add thermal mass.

To me the choice is very simple. Cut the floors out and add the PVCX floor. Then add as many of your pre-wired flexwatt panels as needed to heat the cage.

If it does not work efficiently then you try something else. The only money you're out of is what you spent on the floor - something which is a good idea anyways.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Let me clarify my post a bit.

Adding expanded PVC over cutouts does the following for a melamine cage:

1) Increases thermal mass.

2) Makes the floor much more water resistant.

3) Makes the floor easier to clean (although melamine is pretty easy to clean already)

4) Makes the cage lighter (due to the cutouts)

5) Improves thermal gradiant due to it's conductivity

6) Increases safety if belly heat is used.

To me these are improvements that stand alone *regardless* of whether or not your belly heat is efficient enough to heat your cage.

Since you already have wired flexwatt that's the place to start.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

For my cages I use a ceramic fixture with a 35w halogen light hooked up to a dimmer switch.The cages that I am heating are 6'L x 2'w x 18"h and they are for my bearded dragons and in the basking it is 110deg and the cool it is around 85deg. In my uros cage it is 4'l x 2'h x 2'w and I use the ceramic fixture and a 50w halogen on a dimmer switch. I like this set up cause you dont have to use alot of watts to heat the cage like with a regular bulb. The halogen bulbs are only $6 and the fixture is like $3. Steve
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Thanks Steve
Owner of:
2.1. Bearded Dragons
www.home.wi.rr.com/stevesreptiles

I believe you have solved my problem. I have one more question maybe you could answer.

The flexwatt i have is in 5-11x12 inch pieces prewird as you know.
Could I daisy chain them? Splice them would be the correct word. Is this possible or would this cause more problems. Just thought it would be a good way to eliminate cords.

Thanks alot for your info
John
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"You can't appreciate Shakespeare until you've read him in the original Klingon."

No problem. I've wired flexwatt in a series before. I don't see why this would be any different.

Sounds like a question for MarkG.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)