Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have posted quite a few time about my female. She hasn't eaten since 9-1, and still comes out for a while in the day, and sometimes in the evening. I have decided to keep her light off and have the tempurature influence of the room itslef. Does this sound like a good idea? The mornings seem cooler and it warms up with the day, so I figure without the tempurature change being influenced by the light she would feel more comfortable and it would be more natural for her. Does anyone else do anything like this to keep a "natural" feel for their captive snakes? I am just trying to keep her happy Thanks.

P.S. I am not worried about her not eating, she has enough fat to keep her for the winter months... I just need to know about the temps... Thanks
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~Laura

Rejoice, the age of the fall has begun
We'll dance as the palaces burn.
--Lamb of God, As the Palaces Burn

I have 23 Kingsnakes (5 cal kings) of ALL sizes including one cal king that won't eat. I don't use, and I never have used overhead lights - nor do I let ANY of my cages get exposed to direct sunlight. It will get to warm for them and they'll refuse to eat. Of my 27 years of experience of keeping kingsnakes I can tell you the ideal temps are: 77-82 degrees during daytime and at night a slight cool-down to about 70-75 degrees has never hurt them (No overhead lights). (I always hatch my babies at a constant 82 degrees with near 100 percent success). You must also consider humidity, since most cal kings prefer dry conditions. Is the cage well ventilated? Does the cage have a hide-box (for privacy and stress relief)? Is the water bowl low enough to be easily found by the snake - (preferably in a corner of the cage).
Now to the feeding problem: I have a deformed Cal King (It's snout and body are very short compared to it's siblings), but he's thick and healthy to this day. He just doesn't want to eat. I have tried a lot of things, but I know sooner or later he will eat - if not than it is meant for him to die probably through natural selection due to his deformity (he may have deformed organs on the inside). But try these methods if you already havn't:
1. Make sure the pinky is small enough to eat (get a newborn) 2. Next wash the pinky with soap and water to remove the scent of the parents (which is why so many babies refuse to eat - they're scared of grown mice).
Still not eating? Okay go on:
3. I know this sounds gruesome, but make a small incision on top of the pinky's head and smear the brain matter all over the pinky - You'll be surprised, this has helped a lot of my snakes accept mice for a diet!
4. Scent the small pinky with a lizard or use parts of shedded lizard skin and wrap it around the pinky.
Last resort:
5. Use a small lizard as food.
Only if snake is starting to show ribs and it has been many months since his birth:
6. Force feed (this must be done gently and with small amounts to avoid injury to snake) Items to use are pinky pumps or small rubber hose coated in egg-yolk with mashed pinky inside hose to be gently slid down snake's throat. I have only had to force feed ONE snake in my 30 plus years of having them as pets.
A good point (which you already mentioned): I won't even consider force feeding my "Non eater" until late NEXT spring (force feeding is VERY last resort). . . .
Hope this helps

I am experienced in everything, but I know so little and have so much to learn - Carsten Zoldy

Zee

Well thanks for the help, but she over 3 years of age, so I am not really worried about he not eating...my main concern was if I should withdrawl from using the light for some heat. I keep the temps good, and between the ranges you gave... she has a hide box and does indeed know where her water bowl is. Every once in a while she soaks in it... Thanks again.
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~Laura

Rejoice, the age of the fall has begun
We'll dance as the palaces burn.
--Lamb of God, As the Palaces Burn

If your room temps are within the range I gave then I would definetely cancel the light - FOREVER! Some older kings (3 years and up) also go off feed since they can sense the slightest temperature changes, humidity changes, and daylength. If they do, then they will always make up for it in the spring by eating like pigs. Even captive born snakes instinctively know that seasons change every 12 months. Some act on it (like refusing to eat), especially when getting older - others don't when the room temperature is kept warm and humidity remains pretty steady. Yours may be one of those that thinks winter is near and brumation is iminent. You can cool him off in a few weeks or keep the temps the same if you are not planning on breeding him. He may realize in a few weeks that it's safe to eat again - then again maybe not (until spring)!

I usually brumate (hibernate) all my adult kingsnakes & cornsnakes early December until mid March. The younger snakes skip it and are allowed to keep eating until they reach breeding size.
Just curious: Do you feed frozen/thawed or live? What time of day do you feed your snakes?

Zee

She feeds on live, and usually eats mid-day to early evening (anywhere between 3-6pm) She is a very healthy eater, she had never missed a meal unitl now. Thanks again for the input!
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~Laura

Rejoice, the age of the fall has begun
We'll dance as the palaces burn.
--Lamb of God, As the Palaces Burn