Reptile & Amphibian Forums

What heat bulbs do you all use? I have heard of quite a few people using black lights, and I have one I am not using
(75watt spotlight) that I could throw on a dimmer. I just am not sure how comfortableI am with them. What do you all think? Anyone use them with good reviews?

Thanks for any and all replies.
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"Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain

"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."

~~ Krystal ~~

I use ceramic heat emitters, basking spot lights, and fluerescent UVB lights. wattages depending on which cage they are on.
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1.0 Uro Archimedes
0.0 Fish
0.1 Sulcata Minnie
1.1 Iguanas Flik and Loki
0.1 Newfoundland Jasmine
0.1 Feline Winter
Indiana & Wisconsin

I really like ceramic heat emitters. Reptiles just really seem to respond to them. They work especially well in cages that sit in a cool area.

If you prefer something that allows you to see the animals at night then a red or black incandescent is also nice. I have used them but found that they don't last as long as regular bulbs. At least the higher wattage products I've tried.

But bulbs and heating applications are highly variable. Some spotlights, for example, have a very narrow beam area. Unless they are pointed at some something like a rock pile they do little to heat a cage. But for an already warm cage they can do a good job of providing supplemental heat.

Different cages for different species have different heating requirments. One needs to be prepared to experiment when setting up a new cage.

I know that's not what you want to hear

>>What heat bulbs do you all use? I have heard of quite a few people using black lights, and I have one I am not using
>>75watt spotlight) that I could throw on a dimmer. I just am not sure how comfortableI am with them. What do you all think? Anyone use them with good reviews?
>>
>>Thanks for any and all replies.
>>-----
>> "Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." - Kurt Cobain
>>
>>"It is better to be hated for what you are than loved for what you're not."
>>
>>"You laugh at me because I am different; I laugh at you because you are all the same."
>>
>> ~~ Krystal ~~
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

I am looking into ceramic heat emitters for a 30 gallon long tank that is in a room with cool(mid 60s)temp and I want to provide warm area on one side.Isnt a 60 watt ceramic heat emitter equal in heat to an incandescent 60 watt bulb without the light?
thanks.
Fleck

>>Isnt a 60 watt ceramic heat emitter equal in heat to an incandescent 60 watt bulb without the light?

LOL, not even in the same ball park. I have a Pearlco 60 watt CHE and it really keeps things warm.

I have a plywood vivaria with a full screen top - all 48" x 20" of the top is screen. There is a false ceiling area above this screen that hides the lights. The back of the false ceiling is open to access lights. It is 6" x 48".

The false ceiling does block some heat but that's still A LOT of ventilation. Even with all that ventilation my 60 watt CHE keeps a large rock heated to 105* The CHE is 12" above the rock.

A 60 watt CHE could really roast a 30 gallon tank.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

I am new to this board. I can see by your posts you and several here are lots of good info. I am glad you made me aware of this.
This than is not an option I will go with the red light reg incandesecnt.
They do have 40 watt ceramic heat emitters but I think after reading your post for a 30 gallon it might be to hot.
Thanks.
Fleck

The 40 watt product is a different brand. It may not get nearly as hot.

There are always dimmers and thermostats to control the temps if it's too hot.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Hi there,

My odatria monitors(australian dwarfs) that I keep require high basking temps, of around 150-160F. To achieve these temps I use a 50watt halogen bulb to head the cage. I offer a temperature gradient in each cage from 75F to 160F. Being able to make choices is one of the most important things you can provide a reptile. It is all too common that people force their animals to being kept at certain, constant temps, or do not provide a hot enough basking site.

With my tree monitors, because their cages are vertically oriented, and constructed differently, I use 75watt halogens to give them a basking site of 140F, in each cage.

I hope this gives you an idea of how I keep my animals. Like I said, a large temperature gradient is important for a healthy metabolism and growth rate. Cheers, have a great day!!

Bob

The Odatriad

Your website is amazing. The monitors and enclosures look great.
Those enclosures look like zoo set ups. I never kept monitors but didnt think it was possible to house two together even pairs due to eventual fighting. I see I was wrong. I imagined other than breeding time they were fiercly solitary lizards.
Thanks for the lighting tips.
Fleck

aggression between cagemates is caused by many different factors. In most cases, it is because of incompatible cagemates. Pairing up animals is not a sure science, however you will increase your chances by slowly allowing them to become accustomed to one antoher, via sight and scent, before putting them together in the same cage. It is all too often that people throw two animals together in the same cage, and expect magic to happen... You are more than likely to not see any results by doing this.. What are the chances of you getting along with someone from another country, living in a tiny area, say the size of a walk in closet? very unlikely...

Acclimating and breeding monitors, as well as many other wild caught species of animals, takes time, and patience. It is not something that you are going to see overnight.. I have never experienced cage aggression with any of my animals, and I even keep some species with multiple males in the same enclosure.

As for monitors being social, that is up to debate, as yes they may exhibit it in captivity, showing tolerance for one another when raised up together in the same enclosure, however, if you leave the cage open, I doubt that they wouold remain in close social groups... so, it's debateable depending on which way you look at it...

Take care, have a great day; thank you for the kind words and compliments. I try to give my animals the enclosures that they deserve, not fish aquariums. Thanks again, cheers,

bob

The ODatriad