Reptile & Amphibian Forums

My male pastel will not eat i picked him up from Tinley. My first attempt to feed him went very badly, i stunned the mouse and threw it next to him hoping for a strike and nothing. i closed his drawer, checked my other BP's and when i opened my pastels drawer the mouse was on top of him, i went to pick him up by the tail with my tongs and on the way up he bit him. I WAS PISSED that mouse was crushed by my male breeder Spotted. any way i cant get him to eat what should i do!!!! PLEASE HELP!!!!

Would you just stun a mouse and then leave it in there. Just not smart. That animal is defensive and even if the snake just goes to check it out as many do, there is a chance the mouse will take a chunk out of your snake. Read up on some of the BP care pages to see what to do and not. Good luck.

how long have you had the snake for? if its new it probably just needs time to settle down. snakes dont always eat right away. especialy balls. and never never never leave a snake with live food alone. python food is the kind of food that bites back if giving the chance.
good luck

Yeah,its best to let them settle in first.
However,in order for him to "settle in",you must first...leave him alone,lol.
...no peeking.
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0.1 Mutant Thayeri

I'd say it's poetic justice that you are going through this. You buy a $1000 snake that you don't even know how to take care of?! Get a BP book, and next time start out with a normal.

Sorry...I think someone replaced my usual breakfast with carnation instant jerk or something!

you didnt say how long you have had the snake,but with approprite time the snake should eat but if all else fails now this is going to be nasty but my pastel and some of my most finicky eaters started eating this way. take 2 rodents smaller than what the snake would normally eat put them (the rodents)in a small container with a small hole on top to breathe and about a tablespoon of water shake the container and let the rodents piss and poop all over each other for like an hour or 2 get them nice and stankazz and then throw (1) rodent to the snake and see if that doesnt get him up and poppin and ready to eat. it is nasty but it works.remember in the wild snakes do not have the luxury of clean rodents from a petstore so give them the next best thing make it as close to natural as possible, makem stink

I second Ballz technique it work for me to make the switch to rats....

Second, its October now, if you done your research you would have known from oct-jan(months vary according to the snake) and they begin to fast.

Thirdly, why on god's green earth did you leave a LIVE animal with an animal??? Much less a 1200$ animal???? Maybe you haven't but I've seen firsthand snakes litterally disembowled, broken jaws, scaring, kinked tails and yes even animal on its way out due to poor keeping. If the snake will not eat, there are more ways to entice a stubborn snake to eat before jumping to live.

There are many MANY books, caresheets, and tons of reptuable breeders that can give a wealth of information.

Fourthly, here's couple techniques I've used for my BP's and more often then not it works for me. First if you haven't tried it, BallZ feeding tactic is almost simlar to what I've done in the past and also has worked for me.

Feeding tactic 1.

Prekill a mouse/rat and soke it in warm chicken broth. If trying froz make sure the animal is completly thawed out. More often then not I usually get a strike.

2. The paper bag

This is simplistic. Prekill a mouse and place the snake and the mouse/rat in a paper brown bag and put a piece of scotch tape or somethin to hold the flaps in place when foldin the bag. This is done so its a smaller space for the animal to "smell" its prey and its dark. BP's are timid.

3. Try feedin at different day cycles-
I have a male that eats mid afternoon 4-9 and a female that refuses to eat all together unless the room is still and dark. Makes it hard sometimes to walk around, lol. She's gettin better where as, I can leave the light on, til she strikes and coils, after that if I dont leave the room with her frozen rat and turn off the lights she get spooked. She also seems to prefer feeding from 10-12 midnight.

4. Wait the snake out an be patient! As this is very hard for beginers, more often than not, the feeding can be more taxing on the owner and less taxing on the snake itself. Try different tactics and everyone has a different way, and try 1 say, lets say Monday you try and feed. Nothing. Try again 7 days from then and repeat. Repitition is key especially with balls.

Also, I dont know how long you've had this animal or what your current heat and humidity is at on adverage not to mention what is your setup for this python. If its incorrect temps, it may be too cold and the snake's metabolism has slowed down, which would also cause it to cease to feed. Temps should be 86-92 with a basking area of 95. Humidity should be 50-60%.

Also, I'm assuming you handle your pastel alot cause you think it looks cool and its pretty. If that is the case, STOP THAT! If you haven't gotton it to eat, handling is going to prolong it's feeding schedual ALOT!! Due to severe stress.

Good luck and feel free to email with questions
Jess Bruce

Where was the snake bit? Is there visible damage? If so what are you treating it with?

Next what size inclosure are you keeping him in? What temperature range does he have? Does he have a hide box?

How old was he when you got him? Was he feeding previously and on what (rat pups or mice)?

If you got the snake at Tinley then it is going on two weeks, as long as the snake has good weight two weeks isn't that long.

George Knaack
GLK HERP

I will say make sure you have secure hides and keep an eye on live food in low light so the snake is not disturbed by you. Also..I cant help but say this but I hope it is a very very nice looking pastel or you did not pay $900 or $1000 for a pastel that does not eat. I offered to buy a pastel from Mark Petros before 2 feedings and he would not even take that risk. I would have put no blame on him and only on my cocky over confidence but a good guy does not do that to someone. He makes sure. I would contact you who purchased it from and ask about the previous feedings as well. Tinley was a big money show and many people have a reptation to hold so I am sure they would be glad to help you. My phone number is given to anyone who has trouble an questions with even rescue corns for $20...anyone buying something from me for $1000 can have the key to my house. (maybe I am exagerating a little but the point stands..anyone buy a problem feeder pinstripe this year?)

I have owned many many snakes and i have only had to do the stunned mous ething twice and it worked no fail. I have definatly learned my lesson. i will try the mouse in a bag and the chicken broth. he is small but still is healthy. his temps are 88, 92 on the hot side humidity is a tad higher that 65% he did take a dump yesterday and it was nice sized. he is active and lives in a 16Qt drawer in one of my racks he has a hide box and is on aspen bedding. I have treated and his small bite which may i add is healed. i will try some new ideas in a few day and i will give an update!!

Cool. Glad to hear it Atlas
Such a pretty animal, would hate to see anything happan to it.
Keep Herping!

Why would you take a feeder item from one snake and offer it to another? I less than two weeks? Do you not keep new additions seperate from your collection to make sure it doesnt have any diseases?

(Maybe I read into this but you did say the mouse was crushed by another snake... correct?)
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I decided to try something i use to do for my kingsnakes. i left a thawed out rat pup and a small small rat i just went to check on him at 10:02 P.m. and the pup was gone with the small rat wraped up i am jumpping with joy. I closed his drawer and walked away so i dont disturbe him.