Reptile & Amphibian Forums

If possible, I'm asking for a bit of information for brumating dragons and signs to look for, as some have noticed we have been getting a number of posts about sick beardeds, when in fact they may just be going into Brumation, I'm having similar problems as well..and I'd like to know how to do it, what temps to set them on, is it similar to a Teid's hibernation or Tortoise for that matter where they have no light?
As I understand it, brumation isn't as much a deep sleep as it is a period of sluggishness when the metabolism slows while there is less and less light during the day.. It's not true hibernation. Taking this into account, I have a few questions.

Provide water and food daily? or reduce it to weekly?
How long should the lights run? Basking light?
How long will this period last?
What risks do I run if I don't set them up for brumation?

Hopefully with enough info.. we can just point to this topic when someone asks about brumation.. as it will likely be a question asked or hinted at by many the next few fall and winter months.
Sorry if I'm repeating myself, I do that often.. but hopefully you'll get my point.

Many thanks in advance, I've been worried about my beardeds and without a competent exotics vet in the area, going with my gut and believing brumation is my best bet.
(note, I've already taken measures to eliminate parasites if there were any, cage cleaning daily,etc)
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2.4.1 Leos
1.1.13(eggs) Beardie
2.0 Burm
0.1 Common Boa
0.0.1 Sand Fish
0.2 Desert Tortoise hatchlings
Wish for: Candoia Sp, Frilled D, BTS

It's not a bad idea to get a fecal done before this, you don't want them brumating with a parasite load. When they are ready start cutting their lights and heat back over about a week period. The couple days before the lights go completely out pull all food. Leave a water dish just in case they wake up and are thirsty. Also get a weight on them so that you can moniter it while they're brumating, they should lose very little if any weight through the whole process. Once the lights are out they don't need any heat beyond normal room temp or light. Cover them up and look in on them once a week or so. Brumation can last anywhere from a few weeks to a few months it's up to them mainly. When it's time to get up start bringing the lights and heat up to normal levels and start offering food again. That's about it.

Sean
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Heart Mountain Herps

I called all of the vets in the area, the only reccomended herp vet in my location no longer works at the vet office. I had wanted to do a fecal, but the only ones who will do it require me to bring the animal in, then send the fecal to the lab for results... all this for $100 a dragon, they don't have enough of a good reputation with herps for me to bother with what could be a lot of unneeded stress on the bearded.
Rather than going with that, I had posted for info in the Herp health and gotten my answer, rather than seeking treatment I'd rather start constant cleaning daily to remove most of the parasites.. the parasites I'm sure are coccidia and were triggered by the stress of a large 2 day exhibit, they'll reduce in time.. only shown symptoms in the beardeds are sluggishness and their look.. I hope it cleans up soon, I'd rather not resort to using medications the thought of clearing out all the parasites and possibly compromising the immune system isn't something I'd like to risk if it's a mild infection.
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2.4.1 Leos
1.1.13(eggs) Beardie
2.0 Burm
0.1 Common Boa
0.0.1 Sand Fish
0.2 Desert Tortoise hatchlings
Wish for: Candoia Sp, Frilled D, BTS

Brumating is alot like hibernation but not quite as deep. Bearded dragons in captivity don't always go into brumation even if you reduce light and heat, others go into brumation all on their own, ignoring length of day or temperatures.

Best thing to do to brumate your dragon is to slowly reduce amount of daylight (how long the lights are on) from 14 hours of light per day down to 10 hours of light per day. The ambient temperature can also drop to about 75F during the day and 65-70F at night. Reduce amount of food giving to just morning and none during the day so any food is well digested. Once your dragon spends more time in it's cave or asleep during the day, stop feeding altogether.

My dragon brumated for about 4-5 months and I didn't have food out at all during that time. In the mornings on a few days when I did she her up and on her basking spot, I offered her some greens and water. She would eat a bit but not much then go back to sleep a few hours later. There really isn't any point having food readily available why they are brumating as they don't eat anyway. Nor do you want to feed them alot as they may not stay basking as long as normal thus risking food rotting away in their stomachs because they are not digesting properly.
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PHLdyPayne