Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I got a MHD about 3 weeks ago, and while he has been seeming to be doing really well, he has only eaten once as far as I know. I am wondering if this is normal, or if he may be unhealthy. I plan on taking him to a vet as soon as I can afford to do so (college student), but in the meantime I just want to get him to eat. I've read through the forum a bit and there are some people talking about force feeding them. Maybe some advice on how that's done? Anyway, I've seen him eat once, I guided the crickets in his direction and he finally ate 2 of them. That was about 2 weeks ago. Since then, as far as I can tell, all the other crickets have died on their own, and not in his belly where they should be. He's had BM twice since I got him, and the first one was white and soft and the second one was brown and crunchy. Gross, I know, but maybe it'll help if someone knows what that might mean. Also, I got some stuff at the pet store that is supposed to help their appetite if you get them to drink a couple drops per day, but I can't get him to do that either. I am able to get him to drink water though if I spray it right in his face, but that's only once every day or two that he'll drink. He also just stays in the same place in his terrarium all day if I don't bring him out, which I do all the time. He's a really cool lizard and I love having him, but I'm worried that he's gonna die if I can't do something.
Oh yeah, and I keep it consistent 80-90% humidity and 80-85 degrees.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

first, i hope you followed one of the links to my caresheet. It is under my signature on every one of my posts, including this one. I have a caresheet that is very helpful. For the short one go to www.froggieb.com/MHDshortcare.html

For more detail read www.froggieb.com/MHDCaresheet.html

If he isn't eating crickets try nightcrawlers. Most of us agree that this is their favorite, although mine go nuts over the roaches! Normally a MHD will eat daily or at the worst, unless it is in shed, every 3rd day. This varies with gender, age, shed, illness, etc.

If you can't afford a vet yet see if you can find one that will do a fecal. Cost for this is usually $20 or less and meds can be as low as $6. You run the risk of losing him if you don't do this.

I don't like force feeding unles it is critical. You can force feed in a number of ways. For normal hungerstrike I will simply force the mouth open by pulling down on the dew lap, stroking the mouth, or whatever means works without injuring the mouth.

Put a cricket or the end of a nightcrawler in and he should finish the job for you. For the liquid that is supposed to increase appetite, that is probably and elecrolyte, force the mouth open and using a dropper fill his mouth about 1/2 full and allow him to swallow on his own. They rarely spit anything liguid out.

The white stuff is the urates and are usually hard but sometimes are soft or are formed with liquid around them. The hard brown on is the feces and is what you would need to take to the vet.

Now, I know this is all in my caresheet but I'll briefly answer your q's.

He probably won't drink water unless it is moving. Put an airstone in the water to make it bubble or place a dripper over the bowl at least once a day. Spray him 2-3 times a day.

Your humidity could be lower but is probably OK. I try for 70-80%.

Drop your temps. 78°F is optimal for daytime and 68°F give or take is proper night temps.

Anything over 84°F can stress them to the point of death.

Good luck, check my caresheets and if you have any other q's be sure to post.

Welcome to the forum, hope to see you here from time to time with q's and updates.
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Marcia - FroggieB Dragons
www.froggieb.com/MHDHome.html

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Signature file edited. [phw 9/13/04]

Often when these guys are purchased, they tend to be severely dehydrated. Continue to offer water, and you may want to try an electrolyte solution such as gatorade mixed with water, or pedialyte.

As Marcia suggested, try to get a hold of some night crawlers, any place from a bait shop to sporting goods store to some pet shops may carry them. The benefit of the worms are that they provide nutrition and assist in rehydrating the animal due to their high water content.

In the event that you do need to take a shot at force-feeding, hold the animal in your hand so that it's body lies comfortably within the palm of hand, and it's neck and head rest between your forefinger and thumb. Now bring the animal in towards your chest. Effectively, the animals belly is in the palm of your hand, it's back is held against your chest, and your thumb and forefinger are free to attempt to coerce your dragons mouth open. Often times, simply tapping them on the nose is enough to get them riled up.