>Thanks for the reply, I am suprised at how hard it has been to find anyone who uses naturistic enclosures for snakes. Snakes surely can't be any more delicate or prone to skin ailments than amphibians. Other than a snakes size and strength making them more destructive in a natural viv do you know why it isn't more popular with snakes to design natural environments for them?
With the exception of skin blisters from prolonged exposure to excessively humid environments, snakes are no more delicate than any other species when it comes to hardiness in naturalistic vivaria. In fact, an article in 'Health and Welfare of Captive Reptiles' Ed. by Warwick, Frye, and Murphy explains how the 'dirty-ness' [my term], of natural environments actually has the effect of helping bolster the immune system of captive reptiles. The simple fact of the matter is the culture of herp-keeping in the U.S. has long been one of keeping animals in the simplest most easily cleaned setups, and that means plastic boxes, newspaper, etc. When it comes to naturalistic design and the associated benefits, we're way behind our european counterparts.
>1. Has anyone used the standard techniques that dart froggers use to create a natural background and what were the cons? - such as with spray foam or quickrete and foam?
Search the archives for pros and cons of various foams for making rockwork and the various techniques. You might also do a search for 'foam rockwork in fresh and saltwater aquaria' - I've done that in the past and turned up some interesting techniques. I think the easiest method is to use rigid foam insulating sheets, cut them up and hot glue them together to make your rock base, then cover them with something like non-sanded tile grout or perhaps modeling paste like you'd find at an art supply store. Both methods tend to make a heavier product but still more durable than simply trying to paint your foam rockwork. There's not much that looks worse than making some fake rocks and then having an animal break off a piece exposing nice pink foam underneath.
>2. I realize that many snakes are burrowers but has anyone used a planted vivarium for their snakes? and if so, what substate did you use?
I've tried this with many snakes and it simply doesn't work. You either need to have a very deep substrate, which translates into a huge cage, or you need to bury pots, which is nearly impossible with the larger plants. A good alternative [one that I've used at the zoo when I've revamped an exhibit], is to use clumps of larger plants at the back of the exhibit, grouping them together and then building up your substrate around the pots so that it slopes downwards towards the front of the cage. This helps conceal your pots and also has the effect of providing depth to the scene. Areas between pots should be filled with pieces of rock or sheet foam to prevent snakes burrowing into those crevices.
>3. What are the smallest type of heating/light element that I will be able to find?
Depending on what you want, the best small lights right now are the compact fluorescents that have the twisted bulbs. Many will put out 60 watts or more light with little more than 14 watts or so of power. They're great for providing light without taking up much space but so far your choices are limited to a couple brands of UV bulbs which tend to have an unnatural bluish cast, or the regular non-herp bulbs which are either warm white or cool white, both of which look unnatural above a vivarium in that they don't give a proper color spectrum. Additionally, to further complicate matters, if you're going to have live plants, you'll need much higher intesity lighting to ensure they grow properly or you'll need to have spare plants of the same type to swap out when your vivarium plants begin to die off or go downhill. Providing higher light intensity with a proper color spectrum is best acheived by using multiple 2, 3, or 4 foot fixtures using 2 bulbs ea. and having full-spectrum [full color spectrum, not UV full spectrum] to provide your lighting. Finally, there are numerous choices in heating from radiant heat panels to heat cables, and heat emitters. One of the most efficient heaters I've seen so far and am currently testing, is the Mega Heat emitter sold by www.reptileuv.com or www.uvheat.com, both sites sell it for $25 and it allegedly puts out upwards of 160 watts of heat for only 60 actual watts of power. You definetely need to use this with a thermostat.
Hope all this gives you some ideas. If you can find the book I mentioned at a local library or university library, it's an excellent read as far as the naturalistic vs. sterile environment article goes.
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Matt Campbell
Animal Keeper, Small Mammal/Reptile House
Lincoln Park Zoo Chicago, Illinois
Assistant Curator
Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
Lake Forest, Illinois
