Reptile & Amphibian Forums

i saw your post way down at the bottom of the page, so i thought i'd post a new topic so you could see what i suggested

I like your cage, it has alot of things for them to do. I would maybe make your 2nd level alittle bigger and add a hide to it, if you can I'd do 2 hides. One dry one humid.

I think the only thing I would worry about is what kind of lineing are you using. Looked like some sort of dirt? you might want to ask around and find out if that is safe

It's a 2 story, took about 10 minutes to build the 2nd floor (measure wood, cut on bandsaw, drill and nail together) very easy and I reccomend it highly, really gives them a choice on the exact temp they want to be

I don't mean to jack your thread but I also have a question regarding this type of setup. I am considering doing something like this but I was concerned about an effective way of heating. I see he has the heatlamp on top but the lower level probably doesnt get much heat. Would a UTH placed under the tank at the same location of the heat lamp (hot side) be ideal?
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Leopard geckos
1.0 High yellow
?.? Albino (baby)

Hey I'm happy to help

Actually that lower level does get very warm in certain areas, the bottom right hand corner can read anywhere between 80-90. Remember if you do a 2nd level, and your leo feels the need to be warmer, he/she will go to the 2nd level. There is a UTH on the right side but I have an older tank with a slate bottom, so it doesn't help much. I would actually have to say by doing a 2 level you are giving your leo more areas to be cool and be warm. See the 2nd level provides a shade for the geckos, and when you put a hide under that shade then it makes a very nice cool shaded area. It also allows you to put another hide on the warmer side of the shaded area (where my ceramic head lamp beams down, but not directly onto) giving them another warm but dark place to sleep. Then they have a hide in the bottom right where it gets to be 80-90, and then of course the 2nd level is very warm, but they go there just as much as they do the 1st floor. I would say you're giving your leo as much heat as you would with a normal set up, you're just adding different levels to spread that temp scale. I'm not worried about them being cold, usually during the day they'll sleep in the big rock under the shade on the cool side ( no ceramic heat bulb and no UTH) and during the night they usually hang out on the right side of the cage or go to the 2nd floor. If you're really worried about them getting too cool, make a 3rd hide and put it in the middle of the 2nd floor, it should be VERY warm there.

I just highly reccomend the 2 levels because it seems to me that they can really control their temp with the differnt varaitions that are provided. Remember I have tile down too and that absorbs heat nicely.

k
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Leopard Geckos ROCK!!!
Leopard Geckos ROCK!!!

Leopard Geckos ROCK!!!
Leopard Geckos ROCK!!!

Leos should be hosed separately unless it is time for them to breed.....

Not always. Many times babies can be housed together, and females can too. As long as they're about the same size, each have their own hide and enough floor space, it should be fine. You do have to watch for signs of aggressoin and during feeding time you need to make sure everyone eats. It's just a little to much to say that leos should never be kept together unless they are breeding.
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Brian Skibinski
Brian@MilwaukeeReptiles.com
WYSIWYG

if they are females there's no issue with this.

First off, Gregg, Leos really should never be hosed. They may be misted on occasion.
Second, I have housed my females in small groups for years since i got my 45 gal tank. I keep an eye on weights and look out for any signs of infighting and/or intimidation and step in when the need arises (which is exactly why I'm switching the females in the tank in question) I also had to remove a female last spring from her two gravid roomates when she took over the lay box and would not let them in.
If you are aware, alert, and experienced enough to know a problem when you see one, there is no problem with housing juvies or females together (as long as u follow the size rule)
I have one or two that seem to do better when paired with another one they get along with or get distressed when the other is removed.
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1.0 Pastel/Jungle Leopard gecko from JL (BJ)
1.0 Hypo from Crested (Apricot)
1.0 Tremper Albino Hypo? (Cloud)
0.4 Normal/Hi-Yellow Leopard gecko (Beatrice, Goldie, Freckles, Pepper)
0.1 SHCT Leopard Gecko (Brite)
0.1 Tangy Mutt Leopard Gecko (Rainbow)
0.0.2 Corn Snakes (MIA)

LOL go geckogirl6

Anyways my two gecko girls are very cute, they sleep together and they hunt together (meaning sitting over the food dish and gorging over food), just like two best friends. They came from the same family I believe, but they are a month apart in age.

I notice when someone does not know what they are talking about they try to pick apart someones spelling.... Who cares if I missed the u in housed.... No need to be a jackass..... Anyone that knows what they are doing when it comes to keeping and breeding leos keeps their animals separately until it is time to breed.... You can not get inbetween your leos everytime one picks on the other.... Why take any chances when it comes to your reptiles health..... Females will fight with each other..... But I guess You are not experianced to know this....

Quit under minding everyone when you have proven no credibility to yourself. I have read MANY books and talked to many successful, proven and ESTABLISHED breeders who keep their geckos together as long as they are they same size. Yes females will fight if one is larger than the other and/or the food supply in inadequate. You also need to remember some of the people on this forum are just pet owners, but that doesn’t mean that they are incompetent. This forum is established to help others who are new to leopard geckos or for established owners or breeders who want to help and are also willing to learn from other suggestions and new ideas. I see neither trait in you, nor your attitude.

Are you questioning my credibility???? LOL.... That is pretty funny..... I do not want to gas my self up or anything but do a search on bitis gabonica and you will see my name credited to a few care sheets, zoo web sites, and other scientific papers on gaboon vipers and other bitis species..... Whats my point???? Take it how you want...... I have kept leos for many years..... Most likely longer than some of you have been alive..... I know what works and what does not work through EXPERIANCE..... Sure you can get away with things sometimes but why risk your reptiles health.... No wonder why the bigger names in the hobby no longer post here.....

actually when on vacation I picked it up right from the Oregon Coastline, so it's your basic all-natural driftwood.

look at my pics of my set up with 4 gex.
if you're interested email me
i have to get rid of everything and they / it needs a good home
mightyicculus@gmail.com

yes, I am getting together the hides to put up there. I'm about to switch around the occupants, and I like for the hides to go with the geckos. It eases the transitiom IMO
Also, I chose not to go with wood because it is not easily sterilized if/when I have an outbreak of something, whereas plexi is bleachable, etc. and will not rot even when misted regularly. Yes, my substrate in there is a mixture of calci-sand and the sterile (supposedly) jungle mix dirt they sell at petstores. I really don't want to get into the debate again about sand, etc. I believe I am doing all I can do to minimize risk of impaction while maintaining not only a natural, diggable surface, but the plant in there is live and not in a pot. I really like to use live plants in my natural terrariums.
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1.0 Pastel/Jungle Leopard gecko from JL (BJ)
1.0 Hypo from Crested (Apricot)
1.0 Tremper Albino Hypo? (Cloud)
0.4 Normal/Hi-Yellow Leopard gecko (Beatrice, Goldie, Freckles, Pepper)
0.1 SHCT Leopard Gecko (Brite)
0.1 Tangy Mutt Leopard Gecko (Rainbow)
0.0.2 Corn Snakes (MIA)

i'm sure you could build the ladder with plexiglass