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Chondro enclosure

FamilyZoo Nov 30, 2004 07:56 PM

Just completed this. Oak and glass, 30 inches wide, 24 inches deep and 24 inches high. Waiting a few days to let it settle out before I put one of my GTP's in it. Sealed the inside with a waterproof fiberglass resin (including the perches). Sealed the outside with oil base polyurethane. Its been sealed for a couple weeks now. Have a plant florescent light bulb along with a heat panel on the ceiling.



Image

Replies (8)

chris_harper2 Nov 30, 2004 09:22 PM

Oooh that's nice. Very good work.

Couple of questions:

>> Oak and glass...

1) What's the back panel made of? It does not look like oak (or glass for that matter)

>>Sealed the inside with a waterproof fiberglass resin

2) How did you apply the fiberglass resin? Did you brush it directly to the wood? Would love to see some closeups of the fiberglass finish if you can. I've brushed it on before and did not like the results.

3) For personal interest, how did you make your face frames? Bisquit joints, edge glued, dowels, or what?
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

Familyzoo Nov 30, 2004 10:40 PM

This was my first, "I'm going to try an make a real nice one this time". Hardest part was the freaking silicone. I siliconed all joints even after applying the resin(just in case). I cant calk to save my azz!!! oh, and next time I will use clear vice "white". Calking sucks!!! I spent hours scraping off glass and still didnt get it totally cleaned.

>>1) What's the back panel made of? It does not look like oak (or glass for that matter)
>>
Back is 15/32nds plywood, it was sealed then cover with contact paper

>>2) How did you apply the fiberglass resin? Did you brush it directly to the wood? Would love to see some closeups of the fiberglass finish if you can. I've brushed it on before and did not like the results.
>> Brushed it, did the inside front and sides attached to the bottom(melanine). A couple days later I put on the back and top, then sealed them, allowing the resin to got into joints. It would not make a great exterior finish, but looks ok from the outside. Just took these shots, very close up.


>>3) For personal interest, how did you make your face frames? Bisquit joints, edge glued, dowels, or what? >>
Glue and bisquits. Then butt jointed sides and front with bisquits and glue.


Dado and glue for the rest, tried to minimize nails or screws. Used screws for the top and back (with glue).

Image
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Mark
Our Site

chris_harper2 Dec 01, 2004 10:52 AM

>>This was my first, "I'm going to try an make a real nice one this time".

Well that was a sucess, then. I'm trying to remember my first attempt at a "real nice one" but can't recall. I'm sure it did not look as good as yours.

>>Hardest part was the freaking silicone. I siliconed all joints even after applying the resin(just in case).

The resin does a remarkably good job of sealing the joints, but I agree that silicone is a good idea.

One idea that works well it to put down painters tape 1/8" above and below the edge you are applying silicone to. Put down a sloppy bead between the runs of tape, dip you finger in rubbing alcohol and use it to smooth out the bead, and then remove the tape. You'll kick yourself for not knowing that beforehand.

>>oh, and next time I will use clear vice "white".

What is clear vice white?

>> Brushed it...

Just curious to hear more about why you chose fiberglass resin, what you liked and disliked about it, and if you'd use it again.

I have used quite a bit of it but probably not in over a dozen years. I swore that I'd never use it again. But it's ready availability and super cheap price makes it very tempting.
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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

FamilyZoo Dec 01, 2004 12:05 PM

>>Well that was a sucess, then. I'm trying to remember my first attempt at a "real nice one" but can't recall. I'm sure it did not look as good as yours.
>>
Appreciate the kind words!

>>The resin does a remarkably good job of sealing the joints, but I agree that silicone is a good idea.>>
>>One idea that works well it to put down painters tape 1/8" above and below the edge you are applying silicone to. Put down a sloppy bead between the runs of tape, dip you finger in rubbing alcohol and use it to smooth out the bead, and then remove the tape. You'll kick yourself for not knowing that beforehand.>>

Begins kicking!!!!! lol Next time I will do just that! I used the tape when I was sealing it, didnt even think about when I silconed it... grrrr! lol

>>>>What is clear vice white? >>

Clear silicone. I used white. I think it would look better with the natural looking wood if it was clear.

>>Just curious to hear more about why you chose fiberglass resin, what you liked and disliked about it, and if you'd use it again.
>>
I used fiberglass resin years ago to seal a floor in a friends boat. He didnt want to spent the money on marine plywood. That floor held up great, I figured that it should do fine for the inside of my enclosure. I have contemplated using it in a monitor enclosure next.
>>I have used quite a bit of it but probably not in over a dozen years. I swore that I'd never use it again. But it's ready availability and super cheap price makes it very tempting.
>>
It was in the low 60's when I mixed and applied the resin. Probably would have had to work much faster if it was warmer. I turned on a portable small heater after I applied the resign. I put 3 coats on, roughing up the previous coats with sand paper. First coat was sucked up into the wood quick. I would just "plop" some down and start spreading it with the brush. If the resign looked like it was starting to cure in the mixing cup, I would make new batch, vice putting it on. It was thin enough that I was able to brush into the routed areas that I places glass into, with out it affecting the fit of the glass, but thick enough that it didn't run. It dried faster and harder then the polyurathene that I used on the outside. I ended up using less then a quart of the stuff.
I really liked working with it, but then again, if its 85 outside Im not sure that it wouldnt have been a pain in the butt.
A dislike is the smell of the stuff!!!!! This is something that needs to be mixed and apply in a well ventilated area. Smell still worked its way inside. I was afraid to have a cigar burning in the garage when I was using the stuff, I kept the garage door open for an hour after the resin was applied. It was dry to the touch in 4 hours.

Time will tell if its sealed well =)
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Mark
Our Site

chris_harper2 Dec 01, 2004 12:23 PM

Use a cheap water based polyurethane to seal the inside of your cages before applying any sort of epoxy resin. This will prevent the wood from soaking up the resin and will allow you to get away with one coat. Especially when applying it to oak which is very textured and grainy.

More on resins, epoxies, etc.:

After I posted I became curious and decided to shop around on the net to see how much fiberglass resin costs. I generally found about $9 to $12 per quart. Since it is not a two part system that is about $36 to $48 per gallon.

I guess that's not as cheap as I thought. The Envirotex Epoxy I use is about $50 per gallon. It has no fumes. You could even use right inside your reptile room safely.

It's much easier to work with than fiberglass and well worth the extra few bucks per gallon.

>> I have contemplated using it in a monitor enclosure next.

This is one place where I believe fiberglass resin is useful due to it's excellent scratch resistance. I love the Envirotex but I'm not sure it would hold up to scratching.

I've heard the West Systems Marine Epoxy is about as easy to use as the Envirotex and does not have bad fumes. I believe it's more expensive, though. Worth looking into if you're out of fiberglass resin and want to try something else.

Here's a cage I sealed with Envirotex. I can't begin to tell you how much easier it is to use than fiberglass resin. It would be great for GTP's, I'm not so sure about monitors.

This cage houses Uroplatus geckos and has had wet sphagnum moss on the bottom for about a year and a half. Even when you remove the wet sphagnum the epoxy is still as clear as what you see on the sides and back of this cage. Excuse the picture. This one was taken during it's setup.

Great product.

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Current snakes:

1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

FamilyZoo Dec 01, 2004 01:11 PM

Thanks for the info!!!
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Mark
Our Site

twh Nov 30, 2004 09:35 PM

vv

Malays Dec 01, 2004 02:24 PM

Magnificent inside and out.
Malays

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