Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I was hoping someone can offer some tips on how to heat an anaconda's cage. I have a 5 1/2' yellow anaconda that is in a 4'x3'x2' cage. The tank is located in a cold basement. I am using a 150W bulb to heat the enclosure; however, the temperature only rises to around 68 degrees. I then decided to turn the other bulb on (100W) which increased the temperature to 75 degrees. For Eunectes notaeus, that is at the low end of the temperature requirements. Furthermore, I would have to leave the lights on all day (not good)to maintain suitable temperature.I was looking at infrared lights and think that they would work, however, I found that the wattage jumps from 160 to 250! Apparently no one makes 200W infrared lights. I think the 160W would not be much better than what I have now and the 250W might be too hot. I also have a plastic kitty litter box that she soaks in that might melt under the heat of a 250W infrared light. Placing it on the other side would not work either since her hide box is an upside down kitty litter box with an opening cut in it. Does anyone know if the 250W infrared light would be too hot for her? Also, any alternative heating methods would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

You can look into using Flexwatt Heat Tape or heat panels. Your best bet would be to move the enclosure out of the basement. Or if the basement isn't very big maybe try and heat the basement using a space heater. Steven

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"I am all that is Divine, I am all that is Evil.
I am the one who brings forth Death,
On the wings of a Weevil." JSKII

` I do not use overhead heat for Anacondas. I heat the entire floor of the cage, ranging from 70 to 85 degrees. Water over a hot spot ( 85 degrees ), provides plenty of evaporation for humidity, if the upper part of the cage is sealed correctly.
` Pre-made heat pads, or heat tape work fine, with thermostat with probe, and rheostat between heat and thermostat to limit heat produced to 90 degrees, in case the thermostat sticks. Pads, and especially tape can be dangerous if not installed safely and checked periodically for deteriorating connections and insulation. It is best, and safest, under the cage floor, outside the cage. I've used heat tape for many years with no problems. It comes in different sizes and wattage, so you can heat the floor exactly the way you want it. Also, it is inexpensive, compared to pre made heatpads.
` Tame and happy Anacondas tend to lose their inhibitions, as they age. Mine flop wherever they want, don't use/need hides, and since they don't need to thermoregulate, are more active. When I want to play with them, or photograph them, I temporarily crank the temperature up a few degrees, and they get very lively. Also, with efficient floor heat, respiratory infections are much less common.
`

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Stop the world-I want to get off!

In cool rooms, overhead interior cage heating can raise the air temperature to an acceptable level while leaving the substrate temp. dangerously low. Before the availability of heat tapes like Flexwatt, I have seen many setups, (some my own many years ago), with reasonable air temps. from overhead heat, yet some of the boids still acquired R.I. due to the considerably cooler floor temps. Exterior substrate heating will solve a lot of your concerns.

Kelly

Flexwatt works great. I use it on as many cages as possible, it provides even heating over a wide area and is very consistent. I agree ambient air temps are a definite concern, not only for substrate temps but also because it can cause drafts. Depending on how ventilation is setup in your cage the warm inside temps will cause a convection airflow exchange with the significantly cooler room temp (as in a cool basement) this will actually cause a cool air draft around the vents.

Paul Vetrone
North Georgia Herpetological Resources LLC

I am also a big fan of flexwatt and subsurface heating. It would be a good idea to either maintain the flexwatt with the pulse-proportional thermostat at a constant temperature and utilize either ceramic heat emitters, mercury vapor bulbs, incandescent bulbs, or heat panels for day time highs. Many thermostats have the ability for night time drops but I feel the other heat sources give the animals a more natural opportunity to bask and accelerate the blood through the body. Utilizing this combination has allowed me to have zero repitory problems in years with my anacondas. I also maintain them in 8' Neodesha's which maintain humidity very well and I also keep my water containers over the flexwatt. I am still contemplatiny my filtered large murinus enclosure but have yet to begin.
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Peter Kriz
Aquarist/Biological Programs
National Aquarium in Baltimore
Sua Sponte

I do both, my cages are on thermostats for constant temps but I also use either ceramic heat emitters or lights for increased daytime temps or basking. It is amazing how much even an 18" florescent fixture inside a 4x2x12" cage will increase the inside temp over a 8 to 12 hour day. A couple of reasons I like the Boaphile cages is the ventilation is around the doors and they are stackable which helps decrease heat loss, increase humidity, and allow for some temperature varience between the top and bottom cages. I have a couple larger Neodesha and Vision cages that I house my 2 burms in, they do allow for supplemental heating easier than the Boaphile cages. As you say they both hold humidity very well. The only problems I've encountered with any of these cage setups is with my Bloods, and I've solved that by keeping their cage near 100% for the few days when they are expected to shed.
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Paul Vetrone
North Georgia Herpetological Resources LLC
www.ngaherps.com