Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hi everyone,

My burm is getting up to the 12 foot mark, and currently I have a Kane heat matt for him in his cage. The matt is 18" by 18", but I'm beginning to think that he's starting to out grow it.

I was wondering what you use as a basking spot for your big burms.

Thanks for any advice,
- Mark

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Kane makes larger heat mats as well (The Bean Farm sells every possible size). Another great option, and one that I would highly recommend, is to go with a Pro Products Radiant Heat Panel. They, too, come in various sizes/wattages and provide an excellent heat source for burms.

Rob Carmichael

I've been interested in those Radiant Heat panels for a while now. Problem is, I can't figure a good way to mount one inside of a Vision cage (the 6'x3' model).

Do you know of a good way of mounting a panel in that cage type?

Thanks,
- Mark

>>Kane makes larger heat mats as well (The Bean Farm sells every possible size). Another great option, and one that I would highly recommend, is to go with a Pro Products Radiant Heat Panel. They, too, come in various sizes/wattages and provide an excellent heat source for burms.
>>
>>Rob Carmichael

sadly...to do it right, you'll have to drill through your cage.
They come with mounting holes,and special mounting screws.
Any other way to attach it will fail...velcro, glue..etc.
you would drill through the top of your cage and mount it to the ceiling.

I don't find this to be a problem at all; just a few very small holes to feed the cord through and you have the finest form of heat on the market; small price to pay.

A few small holes to drill for mounting the panel is no problem at all. My concern is more about where to place the panel. In the model of the Vision cage I have for him, there is a 'light shroud' precisely where I would logically suppose the best place is for the heat panel. This shroud is just plain in the way. Mounting it anywhere else seems like it would confuse him - that is, having a warm area in the dark/cool end of the cage.

Any tips for this one?

Thanks,
- Mark

P.S.
That hibernation and blanket talk was so ridiculous that it was actually kind of funny to me (even though I understand how misleading it could have been to a less informed individual visiting this forum).

>>I don't find this to be a problem at all; just a few very small holes to feed the cord through and you have the finest form of heat on the market; small price to pay.

I have ceramic heat elements mounted on the top of my big Burmeses enclosure . I also use the full spectrum basking element as well, after feeding exspecially.Depending on the size of the enclosure will determine the watts needed to reach the temp. required for your Burmese. I have never used a heating pad. I don't think they are safe. I understand they have been known to malfunction and could cause serious harm to your reptile. I have also covered her with a blanket during her hibernation period to keep her at a comfortable 70-75 degrees.

This forum never fails to surprise me by the lack of good husbandry advice. First, you DON'T HIBERNATE BURMESE PYTHONS!...unless you want to kill them. Second, you DON'T NEED TO EXPOSE BURMS TO SUCH LOW TEMPS for breeding success; you can accomplish the same at optimal temps w/out the risk of respiratory illness. Third, you CAN'T KEEP A BURM WARM BY PUTTING A BLANKET OVER THEM...these are ectotherms, not endotherms! Please, please, please, before you give advice, make sure you are giving SOUND advice.

Rob Carmichael

It may sound rediculous to some of you .I myself have had my Burmese 10 yrs. The blanket will hold the heat that comes from the infer red heat elements and keep her warm. If you want your Burmese to live longer it is best to let them hibernate for a couple months. This is a natural thing they do in the wild so if you wish to raise your snake as close to thier natural enviorment then this is one of the things nessassaray for the life of your Burmese. So know the proper care of your burmese. Because it is obvious that some people here think they know but really dont.

P. m. molurus, or the Indian python has been found as far north as 30 degrees latitude in northern India and western Nepal. In this extreme northern range, it has been found to undergo a short semi-hibernation period underground in abandon burrows or crevices. This is a behavior seen only in these northern populations of molurus molurus. These populations have evolved and adapted to survive in the cooler temps. The Burmese, or P. m. bivittatus, has a more eastern and southern range through India on into Indo-China and southeast asia below 25 degrees north latitude. It is found in warmer, and more humid environments and I have seen no reports to suggest that it undergoes the semi-hibernation behavior that has been seen with the northern molurus molurus populations. Additionally, I have seen too many burmese acquire R.I. after moderate cooling into the upper 60's and low 70's without a sufficient daytime temperature increase. Just my views on the subject.

Kelly

BURMESE PYTHONS DO NOT NEED A HIBERNATION PERIOD, BUT IT IS RECOMENDED TO TRY TO MIMIC THIER NATURAL HABITAT AS CLOSELY AS POSSIBLE.REDUCE THE DAYLIGHT HOURS FROM 12ON 12OFF TO 8ON 16OFF.STOP FEEDING THE SNAKE AT THIS TIME.REDUCE THE TEMPERATURE TO NOT MUCH HIGHER THAN 80 DEGREES DURING THE DAY AND 60'S TO LOW 70'S AT NIGHT. KEEP THIS SCHEDUAL FOR 2 MONTHS.THEN START WARMING THE ENCLOSURE TO NORMAL TEMPERATURES AND BEGIN FEEDING.

First of all, I do not hang out in this forum much but I fully believe there are many people who have no clue how to properly hose a Burmese Python. Rob is not one of them and he is right in everything he said. I have seen more burmese pythons with severe RI's than any other snake. I believe a lot of this i due to people making their own cages and not having a clue how to heat them once they get large. These are the people that got the snake with no idea how big it was going to grow. I believe not using a heat pad is somewhat foolish and using all overhead sources I am willing to bet you never get perfect sheds. Low temps and low humidity=wheezing big slug to care for.

I get full sheds from my snake every time . My snake has not ever had a upper respitory infection. I say to each his own then and good luck to those of you who think you know what you are doing.

You know Bob Clark right? One of the greats when it comes to burms and retics. I had the pleasure of talking to him along with Mike Wilbanks of Constrictors unlimited on breeding and keeping burmese pythons. They said to keep the risk down for R.I, keep the snake healhy, and to save work for the keeper, you dont need to cool the snake. Now, I may not know everything there is to know about burmese pythons but I can tell you that these two know more about them then anyone in this forum. So since i am citing these two guys as sources..i know what im talking about..and you dont need to cool your burm to freakin 60 degrees. Your snake may not have gotten an R.I. (yet) but why take the risk?

I would not go as far to say that Clark and Wilbanks know more than anyone on this forum. They are excellent and respectable breeders and I agree with you fellow ISUHC officer that the risk of cooling a burm is not worth it. However, I think if you checked the credentials of some members of this fourm...you may be surprised. Just because they are not mainstream breeders seen with big ads. in every reptiles magazine does not mean they are not equally (or more) knowledgable about these pythons.

This is appriciated

I do not believe I said 60 degrees. I believe I said low 70s at night to low 80s during the day. I don't need to quote anyone I own one. I have heard so many different opinions that I apriciate everyones but I can say I have a relationship with a snake that every person said would not be possible. I am working on a web page that will show Houdini. Look for it soon.

CWells has owned many burmese pythons and currently has a few (I cannot even keep up). He was quoting because Bob Clark has much more experience than him with breeding burmese pythons.

Can you expand on your comment about not perfect sheds due to all overhead heating?
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DZ

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

1.0.0 Burm, Moses
0.0.2 Ball, Chico & Chewy (rescue, many scars)
0.2.0 Cats, Merideth & Hannah
1.0.0 Black Chow, Pivo RIP Oct 23
1.0.0 Blue Chow Puppy, pick up 18 Dec
1.4.0 Rats
0.2.0 Humans (a little obnoxious though)

Overhead heating would suggest (not in the case of someone housing on a porch I guess) that the top of an enclosure is open and not covered. Not only do most overhead heat sources (especially CHE's) have a tendancy to dry out air, but the humidity you have is easily escaped through the top. Burmese pythons (especially large ones) are known for dry sheds anyway (likely more to due with peoples husbandry) and many times people need to build a humidity box for them. Having UTH's allows for more moisture evaporation and if the ventalation of an enclosure is on the sides or primarily covered then the moisture stays in an enclosure an keeps humidity high enough for better sheds with less work of misting and other humidity raising techniques. That is all. I am sure many people using overhead sources can get good sheds...I am just stating that they are a primary difficulty in attaining them.

You didn't specify overhead heating from an open top. I use RHP attached to the inside of the ceiling with no topside venting. The way you explained in your earlier post, it sounded like you were saying one should not provide heat soley from the top as the heat from the top is what causes improper shedding.
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DZ

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

1.0.0 Burm, Moses
0.0.2 Ball, Chico & Chewy (rescue, many scars)
0.2.0 Cats, Merideth & Hannah
1.0.0 Black Chow, Pivo RIP Oct 23
1.0.0 Blue Chow Puppy, pick up 18 Dec
1.4.0 Rats
0.2.0 Humans (a little obnoxious though)

i was assuming most heat sources like bulbs and CHE's could not be put inside an enclosure du to high risk of extreme burns. if a RHP (cant figure it out) does not create risk for burns then you are fine but i still believe a UTH is a better means for heat and is much easier to maintain humidity. Since you have you top covered then you are likely fine. Most people have open cage tops (usually screen) and the causes easy escape of your humidity.

snakemagic, how could you be so errogant thinking that you know everything there is to know about burms, and in the same breath give such horrible advice. But I guess owning ONE (should I say it again, ONE) burmese python qualifies you, right? Because people that have owned 50 over the last x amount of decades wouldn't know as much as you, right?

Also, I've seen the "personal relationship" you have with your burm before, it's called a tame snake that isn't hungry so it tolerates you well.

Also, you DID say you keep it down into the 60's, look back at your post before you say you didn't say something, it just makes you look silly.

And a piece of advice I can give you is this. When your in a room with a bunch of old mechanics that have been at it for 30 years, and you are just now learning, don't try to tell them how to change brake pads. Even if you think you know how to change brake pads, let them tell you how, you might learn something.