Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Anyone know the effective range for UVB bulbs when mounted from above for 18" and 24" bulbs? I've heard it range from 12-18" max.
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usually it is 10-12" but big apple herp claims thier new bulb projects uv up to three feet. i have heard of someones bearded dragon acting wierd and lethargic under the new big apple bulbs and it started acting normal after the bulb was switched back to the old brand. who knows though, could be a coincidence.

also uv wont go through glass, plastic, or very fine mesh, and regular mesh affects the output by 10%
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While UV may be of some value (or not) to basking herps, Heat is far more necessary.

If your bulb is so far away that your lizard is not getting adequate warmth, your lizard will not be able to "operate" properly.

A simple temp gun or thermometer will tell you if the hot spot is getting warm enough.

Some species of reptiles depend on the UVB to digest their food. Without it, the food will literally rot in their stoumach and they'll die from starvation. So yeah, in some animals they gotta have it.
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-Chris

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I think that you will find that heat is far more important in the proper digestion of food than UVB.

UVB may or may not be necessary in proper metabolization of D -3, but even if it is, this is a small part of the overall picture of proper digestion. You can have all the UVB in the world, but if an ectotherm doesn't have enough heat, it will not have the energy to be able to digest their food.

Do a side by side study on almost any lizard in the world.

Give one group limited heat and plenty of UVB and give the other group plenty of heat and no UVB. The second group will thrive and the first group will wither and die.

This "side by side" study has been done repeatedly in the pet trade.

Go to your nearest reptile rescue organization and check out the common green iguanas:

Group 1: Temps: 80F amb 110F bsk UVB:
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For some reason the earlier post is cut off...

This "side by side" study has been done repeatedly in the pet trade.

Go to your nearest reptile rescue organization and check out the common green iguanas:

Group 1: Temps: 80F amb 110F bsk UVB:
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Nope it's def broken...

Group 1: 80F amb 110F bsk UVB: None
Group 2: 80F amb 110F bsk UVB: 5.0-8.0nm

Everyone knows that most of group one will show the typical shaking limbs, rubber jaws, warped digits and frequent fractures and injuries

I'm sure this isn't the first time you have heard the link between MBD and improper Ca uptake so I won't try and convert you.

For the sake of $350 and 8UVB bulbs a year I don't take a chance with any of the reptiles.
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this is stupid. (*depending on the species*) it is like saying what should i give my herp; food or water?
if the species needs heat and uv then give both.

i have seen animals that have died from both causes.(a green iguana from being too cold and a bearded dragon from MBD) while both heat and uv might not be equally important, they are both vital to herps that depend on them.
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1.1 Gargoyle geckos
0.0.1 asian golden tree frog
1.0 oriental firebelly toad
0.1 european firebelly toad
1.0 albino betta
1.0 orange tabby
0.0.1 asian painted frog
1.0 broad headed skink
0.0.1 fowlers toad
0.1 red eyed tree frog
1.1 red eared sliders
476.769.47 feeder crickets

I have two UVB Mystic Compacts running for about 2 weeks now on my Bearded Dragon cage which is about 20" high. After 2 days I noticed more activity in my dragons. Their color looks good and overall I am extremely happy with the bulbs. They appear to work way better than the brand I was previously using. I'm thinking about changing over my other 6 cages to Mystic units. I'm going to give another 2 weeks for these bulbs before I switch them all.

Winston