Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hi all. I have read all kinds of post on scratching to get out. Will try scenary - but both my dragons seem to be just going crazy scratching.

In April we will have had them for 2 years and they were 6 months (as per pet store) when we got them. They are healthy and happy. subtrate is and always has been playground sand (no change). We did move to a very cold climate - so I bought 2 more underglass heating pads. I was paranoid for a while so left their lights on at night - so afraid they would get cold. So, when I saw the scratching start, I figured they were just irritated cuz they could get no sleep. So, I turned off basking light at night and just left on the red glow. No help.

They eat crickets, apples and carrots. Won't eat greens.

The female's beard has grown very dark as of late. My son noticed this. I seem to remember this happening before and then going away. Does it mean anything?

I just now realized I can't see the temps in the cage (sticky one on glass - both ends). Will get new ones.

Since our move, we have only taken them out a few times (Nov 15) cuz it really is cold here. We moved from 70degrees considered cool - and over 90-100 in summer to the high desert and it is never over 70 and sometimes is as low as 14 in the early morning.

So, what do we think?

Robin

I'm not a pro yet, but here is what I'd do.

First, don't feed them for a day. Then only offer them greens, I suggest mustard, for the next couple of days. If they are 2 years old, they will eat the greens if they are hungry.

Second, if you have a descent heater in your home, set it on 70 if your worried about it getting too cool for them. I have mine on 65 and I've never had a problem with them getting too cold at night. Also, cut out all heating devices at night especially any with light. Your screw their day and night up.

Mine scratch every once in a while, but it's usually because they want live protien. They will see me moving around and assume it's time to feed.

You mentioned "the female" so under the assumption that you have a 1.1 pair, maybe you should think about seperating them. She might be stressed if he's trying to breed, or simply because they are housed together.

I do not feel you have anything to worry about with these guys, but if you feel like there is still an issue after you've tried a couple of suggestions from us, feel free to take them to the vet.

Jeff

I think one very important thing you need to do right away is get rid of the side of the glass sticky thermometers. Get a digital one with the probe, and place the probe right at the basking site. Do the same thing with the cool end. The digital thermometers with the probe are much more reliable than the ones you stick on the side of the tank. Those thermometers only read the temp on the side of the tank, not the exact basking area. I live in Connecticut, and it is pretty cold here now. I don't use any night time heat, the heat in my house is always are 68 or so, and my two beardies do fine with that. If your female's beard is getting really black, are you sure she is a she? I would not necessarily trust that when you got them at 6 months from the petstore that they were correct in sexing them. Do both beardies' beards turn black? At this age, your dragons are sexually mature, and if you have a male and female, then the male will want to mate, and part of this ritual is for the male to puff out his beard, and it turns completely black. As for the scratching, I don't know, but again, I would check the temps with a good thermometer. Maybe even invest in a temp gun.
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My darling boy, Dino

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edited signature file [phw 11/11/04]

Thanks for writing. I will get the better thermometer. No, I have never been sure of sex and the "female" is larger too. They love each other - they sleep together and love to be close. The problem with my heating system in my house is all that I have to warm the house is a wood burning stove. We all sleep upstairs - so when the fire goes out - the temp in this house drops to some ungodly temperature. Over the last 20 months we have had them, I have always left the heat mats on under the cage at night. We have the lights on timers. But, it is now 1pm and it can't be 70 degrees in here now. Wah Wah Wah. I am a cry baby.

ON THE BLACK BEARD - it is just the one. I will have hubby take pictures tonight to post for you all. They are very big and beautiful - says me. Ijust love them and I want them to be happy.

Thanks,
Robin

Wow, a wood burning stove to heat your house! Thats interesting. There shouldn't be anything wrong with the undertank heaters and if you are really worried about the temp at night you can get some type of temp control unit with a probe in the cage so if it drobs too low the infared heat lamp will cut on.

Jeff

Yeah, I forgot to hit on the awful sticky thermometers. I have a temp gun and it's worth it's weight in gold.

Jeff

Ditto on the sticky thermometers, they are worthless. I would rec. a temp gun (you can get one online from ProExotics and elsewhere I am sure) I think your problem has everything to do with your temps and having lights on all the time. I personally do not think UTH (under tank heaters) work very well. I would rec ( and I personally use) ceramic heat emitters to add heat to your enclosure during the day and to add heat without light during the night. A couple of tips about ceramic heat emitters: they get REALLY hot so only use them with a ceramic based dome fixture, make sure it does not extend past the crown of the dome, for a 40 gallon enclosure and that low of temps in the house I would say you need the 150 watt.

Also, you may want to consider buying an enclosed type enclosure (like vision cages style). They hold heat better than screen top enclosures. Maybe someone can post a picture of what I am talking about. They do not have to be Vision, but you know what I mean.
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Stacey