>>I've got them in a 10g for the first couple of months. The cenery consistes of very bright colors on each side such as red, yellow, blue and green.
- Unlike beardies, chams are not aquarium dwellers except as neo-nates. They each need their own screen cage. Screen serves 2 purposes: 1. airflow which is needed to help thermoregulate and dry up excess water that can cause bacterial infections. 2. climbing areas for the chams. They like to wander and the more climbing area you have the better off they will be.
>>I'm feeding them primarily on lobster roaches and will throw some greens in there as I have fake plants right now.
- Roaches are fine, but I found that my veileds did not really go for them after a while. They loved Crickets and never went for the greens I offered. Crickets have softer exoskeletons which are easier to digest for the younger chams. I would go for superworms or silkworms and small crix for the young veileds.
>>I've got no subtrate whatsoever in there. Just bright green posterboard under the aquarium. Is this the best route to take?
I would put some papertowels as substrate to absorb the excess water until you get them in a screen cage. Change the towels after every misting so you can keep the bacteria at a minimum. After you get a screen cage, you dont need substrate but you can definitely use papertowels or unprinted newspaper as substrate. Just remember not to use PRINTED paper as the ink is bad for them. Remember to chage the paper substrate daily.
I was told drip system was not needed? I was told to spray down only once in the morning really good and that's it. No other mistings or drip systems will be needed. Is this right?
>> Chams do not drink from bowls (usually) so you need a continuous source of water for them. Drip systems are the easiest to use and work fine. You dont need to buy a fancy bottle. You can use a 32oz plastic cup from McDonalds as a dripper. Use a pin to poke a hole on the underside and see how quickly the drip goes. You want a slow drip so the water doesnt get wasted. You may need to practice a few holes to get the right drip rate but this, and mistings every 4 hours or so will take care of the water issues.
Also, I was suggested to use a 100watt lamp for basking in the 10g. That's too hot even for my beardies. The ambient temp is around 90 and the basking area (about half the small tank) is 110-115.
>> Use a 40w bulb and see how hot it gets under the basking AND the cool side. 100w might be okay for a screen cage but it's way too much heat for an aquarium with no ariflow.
I was told not to use d3. Why not? Only use a good uvb bulb. Also, is vitamin supplemetation okay? How often?
>> You need D3 supplementation, especially with young chams. A bulb is never enough. You can do supplements 3 or 4 times a week as young and then move it to once a week as they get older.
I'm unsure about the best husbandry practices, but the guy I got these from said he has 8 years experience. Please give me your opinions guys!
>> everyone's opinions are different, but, we try to help as a collective group. Take my suggestions and everyone elses and come up with your own best practices. Get a good UVB bulb and get screen cages for each cham soon. Dont buy the smallest cages because your chams will outgrow them quickly. Veileds grow fast and LARGE. Get the largest cages you can afford and plan on getting large enough for an adult cham.
-----
Raf
1.0 Jacksons baby (Frankie)
1.1 Nosy Be's (Mars and Roja)
1.3 Bearded Dragons (Diego, Ginger, Baby and Georgia)
1.1 Adult Sulcattas (POOPIE and George)
0.0.2 Baby Sulcattas (frick and frack)
1.0 Home's Hingeback Tortoise (SPEEDY)
0.0.2 Red ear slider babies (Hingis, Dingis)
1.0 Yellow Footed Tortoise (Alfred)
1.1 3 toed turtles
1.0 Red Siberian Husky (Harley)
0.1 English Bulldog (Alice)
0.1 Blue Merle Great Dane (Wednesday)
Saltwater Fish and Inverts too