Reptile & Amphibian Forums

My newest 03 borneo started shaking is tail vigously when I presented him with a ft rat.He thought he was a rattler or presenting his tail like a worm to hoax this rat towards him.His tail was all over the place, it was funny as hell.Haven't seen any others do this, just wondering if anyone elses bloods do this.Oh and this was the first time he's done this.

Hey Fish, Did he strike at it but did'nt take it? It kind of sounds like a defensive posture.

He pounded it after a few seconds.He had to be hungry, it was almost three weeks before I fed him.Maybe it was defensive act, it was just a diffent act that i've never seen.

I have been told by more than one herpetologist that blood pythons are cadual-they use their tail to entice/attract prey. Being the consumate ambush preditor they wiggle their tails to attract prey while laying hidden in the marsh areas of their natural habitat. This instinct has been lost or supressed some what in captivity and possibly through generations of captive breeding. We all know that bumping a F/T rodent off the nose of a baby blood does not work like it does with a boa. One of the ways I get baby bloods to take F/T off tongs is to first rub the rodent on their tail and then steadily hold it in front of their nose. This usually results in a hard strike. So what you saw was a cadual response triggered by feeding. My big male Malaysian blood is very tame, trustworthy and loves to be handled. Never strikes unless you touch his tail, which will result in an instant bite. Take care-Bill

I tend to notice this alot in my more agressive feeders. Sarge had some very good insight, and I would definately agree on the coaxing instict. Haven't really had any animals be agressive when touched on the tail tho. The waggers actually seem to be more calm when not completely supported (as in held by the tail). This is of course out of their "territory" so I cant comment on tail prodding (i think we can all agree that probing is fairly difficult, and this would be a good explination). It's actually fairly entertaining sometimes. Been wondering about this for some time, and never seen anyone post about it, wonderful to see all these new people adding insight.

J
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"It's my snake, I trained it, so I'm going to eat it!" - Mad Max, The Road Warrior

Hey,
I'll try to answer this in short. Males and females should just prior to the breeding period, be separated for an 8 week period. Temperatures for both the males and females, should be lowered to the lower eighties during the day, with a low of about 82-84 DTH, with a NTL of about 77-78 degrees fahrenheit. A basking spot can be provided for both sexes during the cooling period for about 4 hours during the day, after which the heat is turned off and the day time high resumes the recommended temperature. Blood pythons are not very tolerant of cool temperatures so a temperature in the low seventies is not recommended lest your blood will suffer from a RI, in not time flat. Both males and females should not be fed during the cooling period and food should be with held at least 2 weeks prior to cooling.

After the eight week period, both the male and female temperatures should be increased gradually to normal parameters, of mid eighties for an ambient temperature with a basking spot of 88-95 degrees depending on the heat source (type) and the size of the cage in question. At this time, both males and females can be introduced and allowed to copulate. Feedings should be done in separate containers during this period to avoid accidents during feedings of cohabitating bloods. Females will usually ovulate 6-30 days after the last copulation if observed, and will usually stop feeding there after. Some females have been known to eat after ovulation, while some stop feeding all together. My females stop eating once observed ovulations have taken place or a couple of weeks thereafter.

After about 20 days post ovulation, females will go into a pre-lay shed, and will lay eggs some 24-40 days later. Females that lay eggs earlier than the 24 day period usually have ovulated prematurely, and will sometimes deposit eggs that have not been shelled properly and will turn out to be infertile (slugs).

Eggs should be harvested about 12-24 hours post deposition, and should be set up in an established and calibrated incubator using the appropriate incubation medium, i.e., vermiculite, or perlite, or a 50/50 blend of the two aforementioned mediums, adjusted with an equal amount of water by weight. The incubation medium, should be placed into the incubator prior to adding any eggs and allowed to temper. Eggs take any where from 58-68 days to hatch depending on the incubation temperatures. Cooler temperatures will cause eggs to hatch later whilst warmer temps will decrease incubation times. I use a temperature of 31.7 Celsius plus or minus (appx=88.88 fahrenheit) to incubate blood python eggs.

I hope this helps! Phew!

-Angel
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"Until we lose our self, there is no way of finding our self."
-Henry Miller.

np
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"Until we lose our self, there is no way of finding our self."
-Henry Miller.

My Borneo does this as well, though I notice it most with a young Dumerils I have, who looks quite like an excited golden retriever for the first few seconds after the introduciton of prey. My brongersmai does not. The Borneo that does this, incidently, leaves her tail protruding about three or four inches from her hidebox, with just the tip of her snout exposed, watching over it.

np