Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I know there have been topics on this before but I have a user specific question. After reading another post I realized that I need to raise the temp in my enclosure. I had the 90-95 degree temp on the hot side, but that was only belly temp so i've decided to get a radiant heat panel since they are safe and don't kill the humidity in the tank like other heating methods. My enclosure is a 29 gal tank sitting on it's side,the measurements are 30x19x12 (WxDxH) SO after all that babble here is my question(s) what size RHP would I need to achieve the temps I want in my enclosure, and who has the best prices that you've seen?

By the way this is for a BP enclosure

-Troy

Give Pro Products a call. Give em all the information you gave here. They'll set you straight with a RHP.
Dont try to get the "best price" on a RHP. Because like everything else in life, you get what you pay for.
Pro Products are the most expensive.
Another question...with the size area you are heating...do you really need to use an RHP?
There are other ways to heat a 29gal tank.

I have an UTH for the belly heat which keeps it up but it doesn't heat the air very good. If it turn it up to get air temp up then the ground temp raises too high. I have a ceramic heater but it scorches the humidity too bad. Anyone have any suggestions on how to mount a RHP to the top of the tank (the tank is on it's side)

>>I have an UTH for the belly heat which keeps it up but it doesn't heat the air very good. If it turn it up to get air temp up then the ground temp raises too high.

I'm sure a combination of increasing thermal mass and insulating the tank will be more than enough.

Start by covering the ventilation with foil and place a large watter bottle over the area where the UTH is.

But I certainly won't talk you out of a RHP if that's what you want. I'm sure Bob at ProProducts will have ideas on how to mount it.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

You can use a simple infra red bulb to get air temps up.
Cover the screen top with aluminum foil taped to the frame of the screen top.
To mount an RHP....drill through the screen with a hole big enough to accept screws, and use a nut bolt washer combination to attach through the screen/panel.
Dont overtighten...you'll crack the panel

Burmaboy,

His tank is laying on the side, so the screen top, if he has one, it really the front.

So mounting a bulb or RHP is the way you suggest won't work.

He could use a reflector fixture to shine light in the cage, however.

>>You can use a simple infra red bulb to get air temps up.
>>Cover the screen top with aluminum foil taped to the frame of the screen top.
>>To mount an RHP....drill through the screen with a hole big enough to accept screws, and use a nut bolt washer combination to attach through the screen/panel.
>>Dont overtighten...you'll crack the panel
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

Yep, my tank is on it's side. My "ceiling" is all glass. What used to be the top opening is now the side opening.

See what happens when you reply to a post when you're tired...you missed entire chunks of it.
A thought..Seeing as this tank does'nt need to hold water...change the one piece of glass up top, to acrylic?
Is that a help?
Should be too too difficult.
I do have a question though...why are you keeping the tank on it's side?

I wouldn't have the first idea on how to change it to acrylic. I'm not sure how good the glass is held in place. It's a good idea though!
It is on it's side to give me a little more floor space, to help keep heat/humidity in (since they both rise) and I wanted the opening to be on the side instead of the top, it's easier to clean and get him in/out this way.

A razor blade...cut the silicone, and lift the piece of glass out.
I gotta admit, I've never seen anyone use a setup like yours.
I'm not sure a radiant heat panel can be mounted on the side.
the heat may rise back into the unit damaging it.
Give Pro Products a shout.
Another possiblity...attach another UTh somewhere where it cant be seen.

You might also try enrjoy (beanfarm) or a helix heat panel.. But then again Bob Pound of Pro products knows his stuff.... AdnBTW are u ther DR?
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www.mgreptiles.com
CBB Herps and Heating Supplies

while lower in price...you get what you pay for.
the ProProducts are the best...best guarantee on the market

I have a BP that's in a 36 x 18 x 12h BARRS cage. The cage is in a room temperature environment that can go as low as 67-68 in winter. In that BARRS cage I use a 12" x 12" radiant heat panel mounted at one end and controlled with a proportional thermostat; the probe is in the cool end and set for around 80. If you've never used RHPs before, know that they must be mounted inside the cage from the ceiling so that they radiate the heat downward. But they should never be placed on top of screens since the screen reflects the heat back to the panel. Pro Products' directions for use are very thorough.

As the other poster wrote, just call Bob at Pro Products and tell him what you have and he'll answer all your questions.

Regards,

Bill

Oh yea I forgot to say thanks for the info in my last post so. Thanks guys!!

Does BP=Ball Python if so am i the only one that thinks this setup is not proper for a BP, that seems like something for an aboreal snake. I also dont think a heat panel is going in a glass tank staning on its side you would be better off getting a rubber maid container it will hold heat and humidity......storage containers are what i use for my 3 balls now and it works fine and im using human heat pads

Yes BP=Ball Python, and you say you own 3 of them?? My setup is fine for a ball python, in fact I have had many compliments from reputable breeders on my setup. Everything is fine in my current enclosure is good except for the air temp which is why I started this thread, asking about RHP (radiant heat panels)Aboreals need more height in an enclosure than 12" which is what I have with the tank on it's side. This would be a horrible setup for an aboreal...

Ok I had to read this thread again I thought you had it setting on end making it tall. A 29 gal is good for a ball so its really no need to turn it on its side for more space and I really think you may make alot of uneeded work for yourself trying to cut the glass out and all. What I have learned is that tanks arent really good for reptile because they dont hold heat good, when I used them I had to put foil or a piece of plexi on top covering most of the screen top and then would even have to get insulation and cover most of the tank. Maybe you can just sit the tank up properly and use a bulb or ceramic emmiter and a pad I suggest this after just reading someone saying all heating devices will take up humidity. Where is the tank kept? what is the room temp? You know I just remembered also someone actually made an enclosure using rubbermaids with front opening doors and they where really nice and since being plastic they hold heat and humidity good, I dont know who the person was but you can do a search like ...making enclosure from rubbermaids...hope this helps

One final thought: if you think a radiant heat panel isn't going to kill your humidity... think again. Heat is heat. Doesn't matter if it comes from a radiant heat panel, Flex-watt heat tame, light bulb, or ceramic emitter. I own nine Helix radiant heat panels. Believe me, they seem to dry cages out just as much as the Flex-watt heat tape they replace! Perhaps they're a little bit better than a ceramic heat emitter, since the surface temperature is a bit lowerer, but they aren't a panacea for humidity problems.

As other posters have suggested: I think you'll need to cover up some portion of the screen if you want to keep the humidity up...

Bigdee, I don't want a rubbermaid. I spent a considerable amount of $$ setting up what I have now. I eventually plan on building an enclosure out of wood.
As for the heat/humidity loss. I have a screen lid on a hinge so it opens up and I attached slides to the front of it that has a piece of plexiglass that slides back and forth.
Link

It really comes down to whatever type of heating apparatus you CAN use. The limiting factor is the glass top (side) of the tank. I don't ever recomend putting heat on the inside of an enclosure with no seperation between animal and heat source however alot of people are doing it hese days and I have no experience with rhp's yet so I won't discuss those. If your room has a good air temp then you could get away with a clamp lamp ouside the cool end of the tank. The glass will allow heat to enter and it wiil be enough to raise the temp.

I gather your main concern is the ambient air temp. and humidity. The first is of course covered in the first paragraph and the second I will hit here. Humidity for balls is not as important as other more tropical snakes. My first I was told loved heat and didn't need anything more than a water bowl. True to form every shed was one piece and intact. My next needed a misting or two during the shed cycle. all the rest have been in between but nothing that neede monitoring or attention. Unless your house is desert dry I would only mist through the front screen a few times a week. Hit the top and l;et it rain. Just a little and all will be good.

Sorry so long but I thought it neede to be.

Thanks and any other help let us know
chris

I have a ceramic heater, so you're saying I can face it toward the glass and the heat will go through it??

The ceramic may not work as well from the side but a slight elevation from above could work. I have not used ceramics in this way only spots and floods. These use the same wattages or less and produce the higher heat for the purpose, The red or even black night lights will produce the same results withg the added effect of pretty cool night views. I love to watch my snakes without them watching me.

Anything else just post.

Chris