Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I had 100 watt before and was told on here that 150 would be alright?
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1.0.0 Bearded Dragon (Pyro/Sandfire/Orange Cross)
1.1.0 Nigerian Fire Red Uromastyx
1.0.0 Choclate/Tan Dapple Miniature Dachshund
1.0.0 Isabella Miniature Dachshund
0.1.0 Red/White Piebald Miniature Dachshund

Aol Instant Messanger - Bdubedub

No one cares about the wattage; it's the temperature that you are able to attain. This depends on distance, angle and surface the light is aimed at. The higher temperatures necessary for uro basking are more easily attained with a hotter (higher watt) bulb.

>>No one cares about the wattage; it's the temperature that you are able to attain. This depends on distance, angle and surface the light is aimed at. The higher temperatures necessary for uro basking are more easily attained with a hotter (higher watt) bulb.

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2.1 - Rocky, Runako, and RoxyIII (my care sheets)

temperatures are indeed the significnt goal, but a high wattage bulb (100 ) is seldom the answer...

better to choose the right kind of bulb. we use sylvania halogen floods, 90% are 45 watt, in a three bulb array (for a larger basking area) we may use two 45s and a single 90 watt. we have basking temps well over 160 at the hottest point (not forgetting to mention elevated basking spots : )

a couple of things- "reptile brand" bulbs are typically expensive(!), of questionable quality, and emit terrible heat. that is why folks need a 150 watt (or higher) reptile bulb to achieve a minimum basking spot of 120F. we get our basking temps with the 45 watt halogens, and even regular "lamp bulbs" in glass tank setups.

the economic savings over the long run can be immense, as the halogen bulbs are cheap, and incredibly durable. i have seen reptile bulbs pop, crack, burn out, and fall apart in a matter of days and weeks. we measure the lifespan of the halogen bulbs in months and years : )

45 watts is also a lot cheaper to run than 150 watts : )

and not least of all, the base of a 150 watt bulb runs AWFULLY hot, and can really be a danger to cheap or plastic fixtures, which are often found in reptile setups.

be sure to use FLOOD bulbs, not spot bulbs, and look for a brand with a consistently patterned face, for the broadest, most even throw of light and heat.
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

plastic fixtures rated at 100 watts? My bearded dragon's cage has a stupid built in lighting setup that only has a plastic fixture for heat lamps, so I've always assumed that I couldn't use 45 watt halogen floods with it, and instead I purchase 100 watt zoomed spot bulbs. I have those zoomed bulbs. They don't have a very even distribution of heat, they're expensive, and they blow practically every two monthes! I woke up christmas morning to find that my bearded dragon's bulb had died, and I had to use a household bulb until I could pick up another basking bulb today. I would much rather use good halogen bulbs, especially with the energy savings.

I plan on using three different lights in the new cages (when they ever get finished!). I got those fixtures for them like you see on garages, where it's all metal and you can adjust the angles. I figure I'll have one of those with a 45 watt halogen on one side of the tank to create the hot spot basking site. Then I'll have a flourescent (preferably 36" running the length of the cage. This will probably have a UV bulb in it. Then another angled light fixture coming off the back wall with a simple household bulb in it to create a lower temp basking site. Each cage is just going to have a small vent on the back wall. The vents I'm using are about 16"x4", and I'm just going to use it to cover up 4 3" holes cut in the back.

How's this sound for a setup? Did you get my email yet asking about what is going to be a better idea for a humidity shelter?

the hoods that have multiple fixtures in them typically have bulbs pointed to the side. really poor setup and planning by the designers. just use household bulbs in those, they still work better and last longer than reptile bulbs.

as for your cage setup, sounds fine except for the venting. a 16x4 vent is still about 10 times larger than you need. a 2x2 vent would be fine, along with the natural venting you get around a lid. if you want to keep the humidity higher, you must effectively limit the venting.
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

okay, I'll think about that venting thing. The 16"x4" thing is just a vent cover...the actual amount of venting depends on the size/how many holes I put behind it. I know you say 2x2" vent, but I think I'll probably end up going with two-four three inch holes cut behind the vent. The rest of the cage(s) will be sealed pretty much air tight...even the doors are designed to allow no gap (their recessed hinged doors), so I think I'll go with a little more than the 2"x2" just for piece of mind. My tanks right now have significantly more venting (the bearded cage has a crap load of 3" round vents and the uro cage has a screen top partially covered in foil), and they are actually pretty easy to maintain good heat and humidity.

I need to get more time in to finish the basic structure and the framing anyways. The vents and stuff are going to be the last to go in.

As stated, the wattage is irrelevant, as long as the temps are correct. And you MUST have an appropriate, accurate thermometer to measure that - you cannot just guess, because you WILL be wrong. The best two tools are a good digital thermometer with a probe (available at most garden sections of stores like Fred Meyer) and an infared temp gun (available from reptile supply places like ProExotics and LLL Reptile). If you can only get one, the digital probe one is less expensive and a very solid tool. But you really, really need one for the health of your new little one!
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Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.1 Uromastyx Geyri (Joe and Arthur)
2.0.1 Uromastyx Dispar Maliensis (Tank, Turtle, and new neighbor Spike)
1.2 Anolis Carolinensis (Bowser, Leeloo, and Sprocket)
1.1 African Dwarf Frogs (Bruce and Sheila)
1.0 Betta Splendens (Mr. Miagi)
1.1 Felis Domesticus (Roscolux and Jenny)
And several miscellaneous community fish