Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Welcome to kingsnake.com's message board system. Here you may share and discuss information with others about your favorite reptile and amphibian related topics such as care and feeding, caging requirements, permits and licenses, and more. Launched in 1997, the kingsnake.com message board system is one of the oldest and largest systems on the internet.

Click for 65% off Shipping with Reptiles 2 You
Click for ZooMed
Click here to visit Classifieds

door latches

crtoon83 Dec 25, 2004 08:53 PM

I have built my cages swinging doors, and i was wondering the best type of closures.

I have looked at surface bolts, and this seems to be the most foolproof... however it is also the most expensive. Looking in the woodworkers supply catalog I was considering maybe using a bullet catch or roller catch. Would these hold well enough if i put one on the top and one on the bottom or would htey be able to push out too easily?
-----
-Chris

The reason mainstream thought is thought of as a stream is because it's so shallow. -George Carlin

A fool doesn't learn. A smart man learns from his mistakes. A wise man learns from the mistakes of others. Which one are you?

My Website
N. American Rat/Corn snake care sheet I wrote

Current snakes:
0.1 Licorice Stick Black Rat (Lola)
1.0 Black Rat (Frankie)
1.1 Texas Bairds (Jose and Rosa)
0.1 Blue Beauty (Brunhilde)
1.0 Green Tree Python (Claudius)... coming soon

Replies (1)

legless Dec 26, 2004 08:13 PM

I've just finished a cage, and my latch design may be useful. I'm attaching a (crude) sketch, but I'll try to explain a little. My camera's out of batteries or I'd send a photo.

I wanted not only to provide secure closing, but allow for ventilation through the gap in the door. The cage isn't ventilated any other way, so this had to be adjustable. The enclosure is 3/4" plywood; the door is a 1.5" frame around a double-glazed pane (to avoid consensation). The litter dam is about 4" high and mounted outside the sides and bottom. The door is placed on top of it and hinged on the outside. It opens down, and hangs vertically when fully open. The frontispiece is inside the cage sides and underneath the top.

I used standard bolt latches that came with strike plates, one near each side of the door. I drilled holes in the top of the door and mounted the strike plates over them, and the latches on the frontispiece, pointing down. With this configuration alone you have a pretty secure closure -- either latch will hold the door closed by itself. Also, gravity helps you, since the natural position for each latch is to drop into the door.

To provide ventilation, each latch "floats" on a set of springs. I can adjust the screws that hold the latches and move them closer to or farther from the cage, increasing or decreasing the gap around the door. Regular wood screws would eventually strip the holes as I adjusted, so I got some threaded inserts and screwed those into the frame. The latch is attached to those with machine screws, which turn really easily even under the spring pressure.

With a 3/16" gap at the top, and my 36" x 14" door, I get an effective 9 square inches of ventilation, and I still easily maintain temperature and humidity. I'm increasing the gap a little every day to see how far I can push it.

Hope that helps. It could be adapted just as well to side- or top-hinged doors, although I think you get better ventilation from a bottom-hinge design.
Latch detail

Site Tools