Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Here’s my problem: I recently moved into a new home with an unfinished basement. Temps are always 65 degrees. Space heaters won’t work b/c the area is too large. I have always used heat pads (the kind made for people), which have worked fine for me for over 10 years EXCEPT now they ONLY make them with a 2hr auto shutoff, which won’t work for herps.

Anyway, I built a rack out of MDF to house 20 colubrids in 32qt Sterilites w/lids. I used 3inch heat tape (6watts per ft) from Big Apple, along with their proportional thermostat (with the probe taped directly to the heat tape). Maybe the wattage is conservative but the thermostat can only handle up to 300 watts total and besides, I’m always paranoid about fire hazard, especially since I’m in a new home. Anyway, I’m currently using about 200 watts (give or take a few watts) when I factor in the actual footage of heat tape being used.

Here’s the problem: The temps do not appear to be consistent across the heat tape. I can’t figure out what’s wrong. I used my TempGun to take surface temps and its just not consistent among the shelves (or across one shelf). Some spots are hotter than others and overall it does not really heat up the Sterilite containers. I’m taking temps between 88-95 degrees directly on the heat tape but only 65(cold end)-78(hot end) degrees inside the containers. I have the containers directly on the heat tape (no routered grooves) I turned the prop. thermostat all the way up to raise temps but its not really changing the situation much. I am new to using heat tape so correct me if I’m wrong but what’s the point of a thermostat if the heat tape just runs 24/7 on high…. Is it really safe if heat tape is running nonstop? Am I doing something wrong? How do so many others heat herps in a basement successfully? Oh how I miss my old herp friendly finished and insulated basement in my old home. *sigh*
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Happy Holidays, Jason
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My Website: www.members.aol.com/northeastsnakes
My collection...
BOAS: 0.1 Solomon Island Ground Boa, 1.1 Brazilian Rainbow Boas, 1.1 Argentine Boas, 2.2 Nicaraguans, 1.1 Sonoran Desert Boas, 1.1 Cay Caulkers, 1.0 Columbian Boa 100% het Kahl Albino, 0.1 Anery boa, 0.1 Salmon OTW, 1.1 Hog Island Boas, 0.1 Hog Island Boa poss het patternless.
PYTHONS: 1.2 Green Tree Pythons, 2.2 Bismarck Ringed Pythons, 2.8 Normal Ball Pythons, 1.0 Ball Python 100% het Piebald, 1.1 Spotted Pythons.
COLUBRIDS: 1.1 Black Pines, 1.1 Northern Pines, 2.2 Bairds Ratsnakes, 1.2 White-sided Black Ratsnakes.
CORNS: 1.0 Blizzard, 1.2 Bloodreds, 1.2 Butters, 1.0 Ghost, 0.1 Sunglow, 1.0 Hypo het Amber, 1.1 Lavenders, 1.1 Miami Phases, 1.2 Reverse Okeetee, 0.1 Snow, 0.1 Striped Amel, 3.2 Okeetees.
OTHER: 0.0.3 N. Diamondback Terrapins.

Im not a seasoned veteran like some here but ill try to help.

Check your connections to the heat tape. Are there any drafts from a vent over the tape or rack? Also check all the tape very good for maybe puncture marks in the electrical strip of the tape. by that i mean look at the 2 metal strips running down the sides, one on each side. has one of the strips been partially severed. How old is the heat tape? I dont know about keeping it on all the time. hope this helped

cody

I have my herp room in the basement of my home. I have a oil filled raditor heater heating the room to 75-78 degrees. I have the heater on a ranco thermostat as a back up for the wafter tstat in the heater.. I have everytype of heating method avaiable in use in that room.. I have had some back heat racks in there and could acheive a 104 hotspot. If you are using a herp power thermostat that might be your problem. I have used several of them inthe past and had problems wth them and sent them back. I talked to one of there tech guy sand they told me that the tstat will reduce the power by 15% with the thermostat turned to full power. I had them on Animal plastics racks with belly heat(heat rope) and could not get it over 92 degrees.. I haqve plugged them directly into the wayy and got temps of over 120 degrees, then decided I better turn it off..lol.. It might work better if you can change to the 10 watt 3" or mabye get a different thermostat. A helix or herpstat are your other options as far as proportinal without getting into the major dollar controls.. Hope this helps,
-matt
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www.mgreptiles.com
CBB Herps and Heating Supplies

your set up is almost the same as mine,my rack is made out of 5/8 inch melamine,i have a 3" kick plate on the bottom so i could glue 3/4" rigid foamboard insulation between the floor and bottom shelf.i also have the same insulation on the back wall.my herp power didn't work to well taped directly to the heat tape,so it's taped on the top level floor,i kept the 3" 6 watt heat tape 1.5 inches from the back wall.it took me a week to find just the right spot.if your rack is sitting on cold cement you might consider putting insulation between the rack and floor.it's also possible that the connections on the heat tape are not 100%,that is they could work but have resistance from not having a good connection.i heat my room (appox. 290 sq. ft. with 11' ceiling) with a oil filled electric heater to 65-68 degrees and getting proper temps in the rack is no problem.you may have to put up walls so you can preheat your snake area.even plastic sheeting would help.i hope this helps.

Flexwatt's energy output can be absorbed by some materials moreso than others, especially when ambient temps are low. For example, where the heat tape is in full contact with a shelf, temps will be lower than a section of the heat tape not in contact or kind of bowed up off the shelf. There is nothing wrong with you're controller. The problem is that in a cold room, the watt-density of 3" Flexwatt is not high enough to do the job. Period.

Here are some suggestions. Some may sound crazy, but I have done all three at some point in my experiences with keeping snakes.

1. Heat the room somewhat, maybe just a few degrees higher. Oil-filled heaters can do wonders, but insulation is a must. Those inexpensive polystyrene foam sheets work nicely.

OR
2. Build a shed around the rack (or buy one ready made.. the ones sold for outdoor use) and use a small space heater to raise the temps in this enclosure. In fact, I know a guy who bought one of those really nice insulated walk-in sheds. He just heats the whole inside with a space heater. Works great. No heat tape needed (depending on the species kept.)

OR
3. Run another strip of 3" Flexwatt on another controller, or else ditch that 3" stuff (which should only be used for baby boxes anyway) and use the more manly 11-inch wide stuff. You'll need more controllers due to the higher wattage.

Good luck.
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Mark G
Collection:
CA coastal rosies "the uglier the better"
Sinaloan milksnakes