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What's a 'vacation' anyway?

Dach Jul 03, 2003 06:37 PM

Well, this was going to be a working vacation anyway… What a way to spend it though; explaining ourselves against such blatant insults. Not just in this post, but many others below. Just because we have a different way of doing things than the "spouted" norm.

Where to start?
The simple fact is that we have not used UVB lighting on our animals for the last 7-8 years. The lights pictured on our site are regular fluorescent bulbs - with a sole purpose of providing light intensity. Please don't jump to such quick conclusions from a picture. One person can see the picture and see 1 thing, another person may see something else entirely.

If we were to jump onto every 'band wagon' - acceptable breeding ages, high intensity UV output lighting, coccidia, pin worms, etc… - our dragons could be problematic, blind, overdosed, or worse.

The link that was posted is definitely a good one for reference on UV lighting. Please keep in mind that it is dealing with a species that is herbivorous though. In addition to the lighting, a proper, well balanced diet and a calcium/D3 supplement is given (NOT just a calcium) supplement - therefore the lighting is not the only factor.
Also note, bearded dragons are not herbivores they are omnivores.
A few other places for more in depth lighting information can be found here -

http://www.naturallighting.com/articles/reptile_lighting_current_perspective.htm - Many of the articles written quote from and reference this source - check it out first hand.
http://my.pclink.com/~dkelley/igcare.htm#lig - and another very well known DVM in the herp fields findings. Oh, and that dietary D3 is also absorbed and utilized.
http://www.angelfire.com/al/repticare/page4.html -
http://www.anapsid.org/mercuryvapor.html - Who thinks more is better?
http://www.repticzone.com/forums/Iguanas/messages/287.html

Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet - The Bearded Dragon by Steve Grenard an avid herpetologist with 30 years of experience states on page 61
"Some experts feel that by feeding beardies a diet rich in both animal and plant nutrients, you can eliminate the need for either sunlight or full spectrum fluorescent substitute. I have found that adult dragons fare well under incandescent light only and do not rely on or need either sunlight or full spectrum lighting if fed a properly supplemented diet. On the other hand, baby beardies kept under this regimen did not grow as fast or as robustly as those receiving either sunlight or artificial full spectrum lighting in spite of their similar diet and supplementation."

This gentleman used incandescent lights in his observations. The pictures shown do not show any fluorescent lighting on the cages. There is a distinct possibility that the light intensity alone (from a fluorescent bulb) could easily be a main factor in growth and activity. Incandescent lights provide very little light intensity. Mr. Grenard goes on to say that he would recommend using a "full-spectrum' bulb.

Also of note - One's health is not measured by growth alone. Animals reared outside generally do not grow as quickly as ones reared indoors (using UVB or not) within a controlled environment. There are many reasons for this, the #1 being heat. Sometimes growing too quickly in a short span of time can be a big health concern - Ask any 'large breed' dog breeder.

Here we had to pull out our prior issues of Reptiles Magazine.
Issue - 2000 Annual. UV or Not - That is the Question. By Lance Rich
Para-phrased.
His findings were - Iguanas exposing themselves to approx. 4 hours in direct sunlight is equal to one laying under one of the best reptile bulbs for 8 hours a day, for 25 days, within 6 inches of the surface of the brand new bulb.
He recommends taking the animals outside for short periods of time and provides UVB lighting.

Most people agree that any animal basking beyond 12 inches from the surface of a full-spectrum fluorescent bulb receives little to no UVB benefits at all. Think of the thousands of people out there that have 55 gallon tanks (or larger), or build their own cages for their animals. A percentage of those people's animals do not get within 12 inches of their lights, depending on the cage layout- Ever. Many of these animals have no problems. http://www.alysta.com/books/fishtank.htm - How big is your tank?

When we started out keeping dragons as pets years ago, we also followed the methods to use UVB bulbs, supplement with calcium/D3, etc… Over-looking the fact that the bulbs needed to be within 6-8 inches to have any effect on the animals. I think at the time it was 12 inches, so go figure. It depends on what article you read.
We built our own cages. We made them 4 ft wide by 24 inches high back then. We mounted the bulbs to the top on the inside of the cage. Anyway, we reared our animals up and they bred for us, we raised the babies and so it goes. Then we came across an article, probably in Reptiles Magazine, that stated the UVB bulbs had to be within 12 inches to have any UVB benefit to the dragon. That got me thinking… Mind you, we had our dragons a about 2 years by then, had already raised up a handful of babies and never had any signs of MBD... According to this, that can't be possible, right? Our lights are 16- 18 inches away from our animals depending on the size of the individual animal.
Then we did a little test. Nothing fancy. We split a clutch up and supplemented group 1 with just plain calcium and moved the UVB lights 10-12 inches away from the dragons. And for group 2 of hatchlings we used calcium with the vd3 and used regular fluorescent lights. Both groups were dusted one feeding every other day. Guess what? Within a month, some of group 1 that was only getting calcium with the UVB lights started to develop signs of MBD. It started in their digits. Their toes were involuntarily moving, then it progressed to twitching of the legs. When you picked up the dragons you could feel them vibrating in your hand. Group two was ok.
They all grew at about the same rate. There were bigger and smaller ones in each group. I guess we could have moved the lights even closer and tried again... Oh and they were new bulbs and the best marketed at the time.
We still have one of those animals today; a male. The other, unfortunately died this year at 9 years old; a female.

Was this a 'controlled' study? No. But more of a little experiment done by us to appease our own curiosity. Things have advanced since then and we do not close our eyes and ears to the new information that is presented.

We also keep accurate records here and continue to make adjustments and try new things. For instance, just last year we changed all of our breeders' cages and some holdback cages over to Lumi Chrome 1XX. (So to negate the nasty, unfounded implication that we are cheap, try doing the math on both bulbs and fixtures alone! Not to mention the time required for the changes, since the cages themselves needed to be modified.)
The reasoning behind this new experiment was to determine any -
1. Color difference in animals. * The only difference seen is due to the different light spectrum reflected. The animals themselves remain unchanged.
2. Increase in breeding activity. *No difference - Approx. the same as last year.
3. Any effects on productivity of females. *Last year we averaged 72 eggs per female - this year we are running in the high 60's (so far) - based on the same # of animals, but not the exact same animals. Some individuals produced more last year, some more this year.
4. Hardiness of their offspring. *No noticeable difference in hatch rates/and or babies.
5. Allowing the dragons to regulate any dietary shortcomings of the calcium upload. *This is sometimes visible in the eggs produced by females that lay in excess of 100 eggs. Later clutches may not seem as 'white'. Again, no noticeable difference. It could be the individual bloodline, the fact that they lay an excessive amount of eggs, or a combination of both as that many eggs pulls on the reserves of females.

Again, not a "controlled" study - but one that was done for ourselves and the possible benefit of our dragons.

We have answered thousands of phone calls over the years, whether regarding our dragons or not. 90% of the time, the problem rests within the improper diet of the animals. Even with the UVB bulbs, while basking at adequate distances!
In some lines, there are genetic problems.

Just recently one gentleman was using a high output bulb and supplementing with calcium alone. He only had the dragon for 1-2 months, eating like a champ, going great and none of his other dragons had any problems he said. He had those for just weeks. He ran out of calcium/D3 and decided to use the calcium only since he had it already and figured that the bulbs were sufficient because of the supposedly high output of UVB.
After a period of time not receiving D3 supplements, possibly combined with extreme growth in the dragon, the older dragon began displaying signs of MBD.
To make a long story short - after discussing this with him for a while, he changed their diet and started using calcium/D3 again - resulting in the animals returning health.

Point being that in all of the articles we have ever read the fact which cannot be denied is that the animals diet is the #1 factor in the overall health of the animal. Most things, illnesses or whatever, comes back to dietary issues and NOT use or absence of UVB bulbs. As far as dietary calcium/D3 not being utilized, this is not so. This gentleman's experience points this out.

We raise our dragons to varying ages, not just "6 weeks tops". We hold onto many of them for both breeding purposes and to offer a variety of sizes when possible. These dragons get no different care than the ones we offer on our web site or at reptile shows.

We may not offer UVB lighting, but we have seen no visual effects to flag it as being a problem as long as the proper supplementation occurs and there is sufficient light intensity. Of course, if one uses a single incandescent light and the cage is therefore drab or dim, adding any fluorescent fixture (whether UVB or not) will brighten the cage and thus effecting positive behavioral changes in the animal.

Food for thought - Have there been any studies done on long term exposure to low level UV radiation and its effects on either animals or people? Who is to say that by trying to correct one problem, we aren't possibly creating others?

After re-reading our care sheet, we feel it is fine just the way it is. We are not trying to stuff ideas into people's mouths, but stating that there are choices. We are leaving it up to them to make this choice. We can only go on our own experiences and information the others have also provided.

Are UVB lights beneficial to your dragon? Possibly. Are they necessary for your dragon? Nope.

Rob & Vickie

Ps - Blood screen (full panel) is to be drawn next week along with x-rays. X-rays are unacceptable as sole material as they are subjective to the radiologist reading them.

Replies (29)

azteclizard Jul 03, 2003 06:52 PM

Great post, and thanks for taking time off from your vacation to do so.
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Bill DiFabio
Azteclizard.com
Email Me

dragonsbynature Jul 03, 2003 07:07 PM

First off, I'm not going to debate with you or anyone the use of UVB lighting... far be it for me to tell you or anyone what they should or should not do. We personally use UVB lighting.. whether or not we are wasting our time and money is irrelevant.. if there is a chance it's beneficial for our animals, we use it.

But, I agree with you 100% about the light intensity and the distance of the UVB lighting. We use dual flourescent strips in our cages, one for UVB, and one for a bright white flourescent bulb. It's a proven fact (for us) that dragons without the bright intense lighting do not do well. They can have UVB right on top of their heads, and if the cage is dark and not well lit, the dragons will not due well and are not active and don't eat well or show off their color. I see pictures all the times of babies that look so dark and ugly in their cages... not bc the aniamls are ugly, but bc the owner does not provide the proper lighting... it really does make the world of difference!

Anyone who has a cage of 24" or higher with UVB is not allowing their dragons to be close enough for the desired effect. I know basking spots can reach between that, but that's not always the case.. we build our cages at 16" high for this exact reason so by the time the fixture is dropped down and the bedding is added, the dragon is no farthr then 12" away and usually a lot closer once they are on their stick/rocks. This does cause problems occasionally especially with or larger dragons.

I also agree with you about their being much different opinions in the reptile trade and you can't possibly follow every opinion out there. For every person who says one thing, there are two others who say the opposite..

In short, is UVB necessary? Who knows. For us, we believe it is not hurting our dragons and can only be a benefit, so why not use it? It makes me feel better to know I am at least trying to do everything that I can or know how to make our dragons as happy as possible. They are our pets first, breeders second. I feel very strongly however that most people do not provide the proper amount of lighting (whether it's uvb or not) and that is a shame. I think it would really make a difference.

Thank you Rob and Vickie for taking the time to write all of that out. Regardless of my views, or anyone elses, you guys definitely have some wonderful dragons and have set the path and bar for many other breeders out there.

brandon
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Dragons by Nature

Joel R Jul 03, 2003 10:15 PM

I will be installing another strip over my baby racks for a white (bright) light to add to the intensity of light.
I will let you know how much they change.

Thanks.
Joel

dragonsbynature Jul 03, 2003 11:11 PM

I'd be real interested to hear how that works out for you. I've seen your setup, and it's very nice.. the extra lighting will help I think, but you did provide a lot of nice lighting before.

I've seen some enclousures that have almost no light just an incandescent fixture and the one side of the cage is bright and the other is very dark. Those are the setups that will benefit from the extra lighting the most.

Please let us know how it goes.

brandon
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Dragons by Nature

chris allen Jul 03, 2003 11:48 PM

I feel exactly the same. Good post. Sorry I had to be a little copycat Brandon, lol. Chris Allen

dragonsbynature Jul 04, 2003 12:26 AM

No problem man! Glad to be useful for a change!

brandon
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Dragons by Nature

CheriS Jul 04, 2003 09:18 AM

First to address the smirk post about silence.....You obviously do not know me very well, sorry I could not jump on here last night and give you more fodder. I think I only read and replied to the one about the savannah and iguana rescue since another reptile breeder was here helping us, he raises monitors and thought the one picutured very well taken care of.

I work 10 hour days for the State and when I came home we had 4 new dragons that had come in age 10 months and 2 years from a owner, that needed serious attention and strange as it seems, due to lack of UVB lights as that is what was recommended to them by the "big breeder" they came from. The older ones are probably a loss cause to size and will have permanent problems, the younger ones we can possibly get back to fair good health, but none of them will ever be normal size, they will join the growing ranks of undersize beardies here in the United States. Every report I have ever read, mentions size and robustness as a questionable downfall to the only D3 supplement and diet.

Granted iguanas are not bearded dragons, but they are a lot more closely related than dogs, I am not ready to ignore any study on a close kin that do share many factors and lack of the same things have like results in them. Now I see mentioned growing too quickly in a short span of time can be a big health concern - Ask any 'large breed' dog breeder. Interesting perspective, but if anyone checks other list and that have 1000 active members such as Yahoo or one that we can not mention on KS, they will see some of the best breeders in this country and Australia are expressing concerns about the diminishing size of dragons here, whatever the cause, its a known fact.

Who knows, maybe by downsizing these species they are improving on thousands of years of nature and now avoiding the possible "big health concerns" of growing to quickly in them, maybe even adding more chemicals to them and not natural or close to natural environments that allow their own systems to do what they have done in the same eons are improving them. I and the rest of the jury will have to stay out on that one until there is some better documentation, but I do not agree with any of that at this point. I think we only have to look to the Germans and what they did with the line that bears that country's name and are well noted for their health, robustness and longer life expectancy. So much in fact that many big name breeders and smaller ones are breeding those lines into their regulars to try and restore size and heartiness that is being lost.

This started over someone telling a new person the below and others questioning if it was such a good idea, IMO it is not, as this advice as stated I felt would only doom a dragon to a new owner and we felt it very poor advice:
No need for a UV bulb, just make sure to dust your insects with a calcium supp. WITH d3. Mineral-I or rep-cal are both good supps.
good luck
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Bill DiFabio

I will continue to provide URLS in WHOLE and not pick and choose to post only those parts I want to support my thoughts. People that are interested in learning as much as they can because they care about their animals to come here in the first place, I think intelligent enough to read or demand the whole story. Others that clip, edit or apply things that have no bearing on the point are doing a disservice and misrepresenting to others. Also ignoring the fact that diet and light are an important issue in any animals well being along with supplements is not very good advice.

Drachiu, before you get offended and think that is meaning you, it is not, my posts address the entire discussion, not aimed at you. They also are part of others discussions on the same subject on other lists and forum, which do include breeders that do not use UVB lights on hatchling as the they feel the expense is not worth it for something they will only have a few weeks. At the time I did not know if you do or don't use UVB light, in fact at that time I assumed you did. I do thank you for pointing out you are one of the breeders that do not. The person that mentioned your name did so in defending his post to the new person that D3 dustings on crickets was all that was needed and you used this practice. I did not bring you up, its a moot point to me. I did go look at your site after he backed his post with your name as practicing this, I remember seeing tube lights in them before. I questioned about the lights there, even if not UVB, they still are UVA and there for a reason I assume... his post said no UV... reread it.

I agree with Brandon, I also think that it does not hurt our dragons and can only be a benefit, so why not use it? It makes me feel I am doing the best for them, they also are my pets first before anything. Their size amazes people when they see them, they are not only large well developed bearded dragons, they are healthy, all but one has never been to the Vet except for a well check up prior to breeding season and that one came to us from one of the biggest breeder in the country with a genetic problem thought to be caused by inbreeding.

It works well for us, we do not have size problem babies, parasite or worms issues (nor do new owners after adjustment periods in new homes) Our raised babies take a fraction of the time and cost compared to the ones we have taken in from people that were advised they did not need UVB light and only dustings with calcium /w D3 is sufficient, there is a huge difference in their appearance... if it ain't broke, don't fix it, when your seeing over and over how badly it breaks, you try and stop it by education and countering what those advising that are saying.

If that insults others, I am sorry they feel that way, sometimes you can not advise people in the care of their animals without insulting someone who instantly assumes they are being talked about because it differs from their point of view... The ONLY thing that matters to me is the health and well being of the animals and those owners not having to bury a new pet, or deal with problems. I do not do this for the money, I make nothing off our dragons as I do not sell them at this time, they are given to others breeders to improve breeding lines and replace lost dragons from other breeder that died due to illness that the owner had no control over. My agenda is understanding more about their health needs and developing the health, size and heartiness that has been breed out of them.

CheriS, off to medicate, parazap and get into the Florida sun 8 dragons that arrived this week. Extremely undersized for their age including adults, from different owners advised to only dust crickets with D3 and not use UV by the breeders of them. Blah

grimdog Jul 03, 2003 07:35 PM

We enjoy you taking time out of your day especially on vacation to add your input. I do realize how valuable your time is.
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Derek Affonce
DeKeAff Exotics
dekeaffexotics.com

Dach Jul 03, 2003 08:13 PM

But, this is just information that others and we have gathered, read and collected. In no way did we take the last few hours to put it together - to begin an argument. We did not start this and there is really nothing to finish.

Please take this information for what its worth to you.

Rob & Vickie

Tracey Jul 04, 2003 02:23 AM

n/p

Pak Jul 03, 2003 08:42 PM

Thanks for taking the time to add a wonderfully written message on this board. I have just ventured into the BD world, and have been an avid reader of this forum for many weeks. I continue to research as best as I can to provide my BD with the best possible life he can have. Your time and efforts are greatly appreciated, as is your courtesy. I read the arguments from a day or two ago on the use of UVB, and to read a good-hearted message such as yours was great. It was very well stated. Thanks again.

-Pak

griffinej5 Jul 03, 2003 09:30 PM

I appreciate you taking the time from your vacation to post here. I appreciate that there are no beardies on your site for me to look at and feel sad that I can't have them.
This next comment is probably going to bother some people here, but my first beardie was raised without uvb for most of his life. This was against my knowledge, as I thought my bulbs had it. Anyway, at time of death, there were no signs of mbd. Maybe I did take him outside enough to give him the amount of uv he needed, or maybe it was the diet. If I listed all the things I do, i'd probably have everyone on this forum angry with me for something.
Anyway, I would be tempted to run my own experiment. One beardie under uvb lamps, another with regular fluorescent lighting, and maybe some other settings I could try. So, Rob and Vickie, when I come and buy multiple dragons, you'll know what my plan is. Of course this will all have to wait until I move out and get some money. When I finally do this, i'll let everyone know the results of the experiment.

azteclizard Jul 03, 2003 11:35 PM

from the debate below are silent. I don't mean to seem like I'm provoking more debate, but this burns me. My practices were called out from several fronts, and now that it has been presented clearly that UV is not necessary there is silence from these people. I apologize to the rest of the forum for being argumentative.

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Bill DiFabio
Azteclizard.com
Email Me

grimdog Jul 03, 2003 11:57 PM

:P
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Derek Affonce
DeKeAff Exotics
dekeaffexotics.com

chris allen Jul 04, 2003 12:02 AM

from the debate below are silent. I don't mean to seem like I'm provoking more debate, but this burns me. My practices were called out from several fronts, and now that it has been presented clearly that UV is not necessary there is silence from these people. I apologize to the rest of the forum for being argumentative.

But you are provoking. Even with Rob and Vickies great post, I know myself and probably others as well will continue to use a uvb emitting bulb because we have decided for ourselves through research or what ever resources we had that they can be or are beneficial to the dragons. Maybe its a piece of mind for us. Chill out a bit.

grimdog Jul 04, 2003 12:06 AM

I think I am done with this debate and the debate on maturing. Just find that it is funny that everyone is crazy and wrong. Then when big breeders come out with their proof of it the people just ignore it. Or how my points below got ignored, no answers to them. There are two people on her that have twisted alot of what I said and that is not apprieciated. Putting words in my mouth is not a nice thing to do, that is were my rage came from. I to will continue to use uvb. It may allow me a litle more era in my supplementation schedule, although I am pretty anal don't know that I need it.
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Derek Affonce
DeKeAff Exotics
dekeaffexotics.com

Joel R Jul 04, 2003 12:31 AM

They said what they had to say "very ....." well I said it in the subject line.

I think they way things are said around here spark up just as much conflict as the subject matter. LOL
I think we all can learn something from their post. (on how to behave and treat others opinions).

Thanks Rob & Vickie

JMO.

Joel R

Joel R Jul 04, 2003 12:34 AM

n/p

grimdog Jul 04, 2003 12:56 PM

Just the people that ignored things I said and implied I was crazy. Then said I promote breeding dragons at any age. Or that I say there is absolutely no benefit to dragons via the use of UVB. I do not enjoy these things. i do my best to provide accurate information and provide sources.
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Derek Affonce
DeKeAff Exotics
dekeaffexotics.com

Joel R Jul 04, 2003 01:15 PM

I'm not blaming you for anything. It just got out of hand, by many people. It was a giant snowball. No one person was able to roll that big thing>LOL.

Joel R

Christyj Jul 04, 2003 12:32 AM

did have a few questions/comments.
As far as people not posting, it's a Holiday (almost). I happen to have a life and wasn't home...
I appreciate what the Diachu's have to say and will be looking forward to their test results.
But like others, I still choose to use UVB.
CheriS made her case and Diachu's (and you) made theirs. I don't see CheriS wallowing in self rightousness and yelling "Neener, Neener"!
I'm absolutely sure she still firmly believes she is right too. What is it you want her to say? She has already said what she needs to.
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TheClassyLizard

Christyj Jul 04, 2003 01:21 AM

I mispelled Dachiu in my previous post.
10,000 Hail Marys along with Grimdog..lol!
(this confession booth is getting crowded)
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TheClassyLizard

azteclizard Jul 04, 2003 12:54 AM

This is my first post on the subject made directly to the original poster with a question. It was after that post that someone questioned whether I should have said that or not. That is when it spiraled out. I wasn't looking for a drawn out debate but that is what it turned into. I just want to be able to express my point of view. If someone questions it, I will defend it. If they leave it alone and choose to just express theirs also that would be fine.
My reply to original post

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Bill DiFabio
Azteclizard.com
Email Me

Mattman Jul 04, 2003 01:37 AM

What did I tell this newbie wrong? My exact posts...First things first no undertank heater is needed so yank that out. They are dangerous and can cause burns. As for the 20L tank is fine untill the dragon grows to about 11-12 inches then uprade to a 3x2x2 minimum for one adult 4x2x2 is fine for two framales but would hold a single awesome. The day temps have to be hot 110 for hatchlimgs at a basking spot usaually people use a river rock or a log for a basking spot. Night temps can drop to 65 without harm. On the far side of the tank should be a cool side atleast down to 80 degrees during the day. Food wise hatchlings eat a lot about 20-40 appropriate size crickets daily, no larger then the space between thier eyes. Purchasing crickets over the internet will save you a bunch of money. Check out www.reptilefood.com. They also will snack on ripped up leafy greens. Good Luck
Daily supplements of calcium and vit d3 should be dusted on the crix daily along with a multi vit. once a week. You are also going to need a uvb producing light repti-suns by zoomed are good ones. Powersun mercury vapors I believe are the best...

These exact 2 posts I made to a newbie provoked aztecklizard to start this whole big production. No matter how many big breeders he digs up that don't use uvb. Not one will say it's bad. Don't use it....Rather they have an opinion, and I have my own. Then it was suggested that I should not buy from the Dachiu's on the 7th because we don't beleive in the same husbantry. That's garbage with friends like that who needs enemies...His words "Buying from them makes me a hypocrit." Rob and Vicky I'll see ya on the 7th no matter if you use uvb or not. I really would love to have one of your hypo's. Will I come home and take off my uvb, No don't think that is neccesary to raise up one of your babies. I'm sorry this person felt he had to drag you into this on your vacation. See ya soon. Matthew
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Photos

Tracey Jul 04, 2003 02:20 AM

Bill, ain’t that the pot calling the kettle black…don’t know anyone who’s more outspoken that you…lol

I fully agree with Rob and Vicky, that there are many ways to do something…. just like with everything else in life…

I’d like to share a study I did for my own knowledge a little over a year ago…

I took 3 clutches of beardies from 3 different sets of parents and divided them into 3 groups.

Group one had incandescent light bulbs for heat and regular florescent bulbs

Group two had incandescent light bulbs for heat and Reptisun 5.0 bulbs

Group three had T-Rex MVB’s – 100 watt flood

They were all supplemented one feeding per day with absolute calcium which is plant based without d3…the were given parazap for 5 days during weeks 3 and 8…all fed the same foods and the same number of feedings…all tanks were brightly lit…no natural sunlight exposure during the study…. the study was for 8 weeks. They ranged from 3.75 inches at hatching to 4.75… they were divided into groups with varying sizes to end results would be more fair.

All beardies remained active and ate well during the study with no signs of MBD. At the end of the study their lengths were as follows.

Group one – clutch one – 5 beardies
Average length 7.25 inches…range 6.5 – 8.5

Group one – clutch two – 6 beardies
Average length 7.5 inches…range 6.75 – 9.0

Group one – clutch three – 6 beardies
Average length 7.75 inches…range 6.75 – 9.25

Group two – clutch one – 6 beardies
Average length 7.5 inches…range 6.75 – 9.0

Group two – clutch two – 5 beardies
Average length 7.75 inches…range 7.25 – 9.5

Group two – clutch three – 6 beardies
Average length 8.25 inches…range 7.25 – 10.25

Group three – clutch one – 6 beardies
Average length 8.5 inches…. range 7.25 – 10.0

Group three – clutch two – 6 beardies
Average length 9.0 inches…range 7.75 – 10.75

Group three – clutch three – 5 beardies
Average length 9.5 inches…range 8.0 – 11.25

My own conclusions from the study are that UVB is beneficial to my beardies especially in the stronger outputs, though it well may not be necessary in the short term. I’m not sure about the long term my self as I have not done any long-term study myself. I do appreciate Rob and Vicky’s long-term experience as not being harmful to their stock.

The main reason I wanted to post was that a lot of these “arguments” seem to come about the same way…..a newbie asks a question and here we go…….the reason I feel so strongly about giving more conservative information to a new owner is the following……we see so many post with help! beardies twitching or having seizures, or my beardie had a cricket chew a hole in it, or my beardie hasn’t pooped in days or I feed my beardie lettuce everyday and two or 3 circkets why isn’t he growing……and many more like those……I feel, as I now others do that tried and true is safer for new owners with minimal experience…..as they grow in knowledge about their beardie, they will have the being to know what works for them and make alterations based on sound knowledge and thinking where when they are new there are so many things to watch for…..impaction, MBD, failure to thrive, toxicity of Vit A, D3 etc…..if we give them tried and true methods they are less likely IMO to run into these things and have them have a tragic end because they weren’t experienced enough to know what to look for.

Well, all that said by one of the “outspoken” ones who didn’t participate in the last round, I would like to say that my comments were not to incite another “riot” but to explain my train of thought on the subject….for what its worth…..lol
Tracey's Beardies

Christyj Jul 04, 2003 09:56 AM

I agree wholeheartedly Tracey. That is what Mattman was saying too, way up there (the newbie, knowing basics thing).
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TheClassyLizard

azteclizard Jul 04, 2003 10:02 AM

Great post Tracey, and I commend you for taking the time to actually do such an experiment. I have a question about group one, and correct me if I missed something. They were raised under incandescent and regular flourescent and supplemented with absolute calcium without d3 for 8 weeks? If this is the case, I can't understand how there would have been no signs of MBD setting in (twitching). Is it possible that the absolute calcium has no added d3, but contains it naturally. That wouldn't make sense though, as it is plant based. Just made bringing up a point that makes me scratch my head. In 8 weeks time they would surely show signs if not receiving adequate d3. Any insight?
take care
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Bill DiFabio
Azteclizard.com
Email Me

Tracey Jul 04, 2003 12:01 PM

Thank you Bill. I myself was worried about that too before and during the study......not that I'm a scientist at all, but I'm think that because it's plant based, they readily absorb it and are able to use it better without the d3 added. I also believe that animals adapt and bodies are "smart", if healthy to start, they find a way to adapt, again just a theory based on my nursing background and only my opinion. I have been using this product for about 2 years now and have no issues even with it.....I also believe that healthy offspring from healthy mature adults with no calcium issues during breeding may have something to do with this also....not wholely but in part, though that is just a guess. For more on the way that the absolute calcuim works you can chat with the maker, he explains it in a way I can't, but I wholeheartedly believe in the product, though it was not used for controversy when I did it, but was a test for my own peace of mind too as I was using it and wanted to promote it but wanted to be sure.
Tracey's Beardies

Tracey Jul 04, 2003 01:12 PM

to those who may be concerned with the long term outcome of group one who had no uvb exposure......I kept that group another 6 weeks before offering them for sale.....they went into MVB tanks when the study was finished and got 1 hour natural sunlight at least 3 times a week.....I kept back a few in the other 2 groups as well.....group one caught up in size and upon leaving my care had no signs of MBD. I still have one of that group today who is healthy and of good size. I also wanted to add that 2 dragons of the 3 clutches were not included in the study......as it would not have had even numbers.....they were raised like group 2 with the exception of having natural sunlight exposure .... they were average size for the clutches at hatching and that's why they were held out so as not to skew by being the smallest or the largest. They had size similar to their siblings in group three at the end of the study. Again, I did this study for my own knowledge and certainly don't suggest that's it scientific or exact but showed me what I needed to know about the potential benefits of UVB exposure.

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