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I just go done framing a wall in the third stall of my garage. It's going to be my 10'x17' snake room .

The inside of the snake room will pretty much always be warmer than the inside of the garage, even in the summer. I'm going to use that fiberglass insulation with a plastic backing instead of paper.

1) Should that plastic side be on the snake room side of the main garage side?

The wall is connected between two poured concrete walls. One of the walls is below grade.

2) When I butt the drywall up against that wall do I need to have some sort of vapor barrier there? I can't imagine it's a good idea to have the cut drywall edge up against the concrete.

I'm eventually going to line the concrete walls with that foil-covered styrene insulation but need to get the drywall up first.

3) Speaking of the foil-covered insulation, do I need a vapor barrier behind it on the walls that are below grade?
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

Of all the advice you offer on the web site it seems to be a honor of returning the favor.

1) Should that plastic side be on the snake room side of the main garage side?

Plastic is the moisture barrier needs to be away from the isulated room. In your case to the garage.

2) When I butt the drywall up against that wall do I need to have some sort of vapor barrier there? I can't imagine it's a good idea to have the cut drywall edge up against the concrete.

No but you don't need to by sheeting or anything they have products designed to seal concrete. The biggest worry would be from flooding in the actual garage. Thats why it was rimmed in the first place.

3) Speaking of the foil-covered insulation, do I need a vapor
barrier behind it on the walls that are below grade?

I am not familiar with the product so have no advice. I used plain poly the pink stuff when I did my basement. It is moisture resistant but not flame retardent hence why we drywall over it. Works great and provides a lot of insulation.

Good Luck
Jeremy

Jeremy,

Actually, the vapor barrier is to the living side of the wall. In this case, assuming that I understand what Chris is trying to do (i.e., create a snake room in his garage; room will be climate controlled), the vapor barrier should be to the inside of the wall if you are in the room.

Specifically to Chris, in terms of insulating the exterior concrete walls, take a look at www.doityourself.com, under the interior forums in the basement section. There are a number of things to be careful of when insualting a concrete wall below grade (think of this as a basement). You wouldn't experience any immediate problems, but the long term effects could be horrible (think of building a very nice mold factory inside your walls).

Good Luck,
Tom

Hey Chris,
Sorry I have not gotten back to you regarding our previous conversation. I have been, as always, busy with school. Everyone says that the 1st year of teaching is the hardest, and they're all right. Anyway, I'll post some pics above of the future herp room. I'm sure you've been reading about my electrical woes. Electricity is really all that stands in my way from completing most of the room in one weekend, at least enough to get my herps in there to better regulate temps. Since the flooring I want is high quality and expensive, I may wait a little bit on that. Also, I will likely do a drop ceiling so that may take some time but insulating and drywalling is whats most important to initially make use of the room.

Your herp room sounds like it will be nice once completed. I am by no means an expert but I think the plastic backing on the insulation acts as a vapor barrier and would face the concrete wall. You could probably apply some sort of liquid barrier to the cement where the drywall meets it. Otherwise, I would be concerned about the same things. Well, good luck.
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Happy New Year, Jason
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My Website: www.members.aol.com/northeastsnakes
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OTHER: 0.0.3 N. Diamondback Terrapins.

>>I just go done framing a wall in the third stall of my garage. It's going to be my 10'x17' snake room .
>>
>>The inside of the snake room will pretty much always be warmer than the inside of the garage, even in the summer. I'm going to use that fiberglass insulation with a plastic backing instead of paper.
>>
>>1) Should that plastic side be on the snake room side of the main garage side?
>>Vapor barrier to the heated side
>>The wall is connected between two poured concrete walls. One of the walls is below grade.
>>
>>2) When I butt the drywall up against that wall do I need to have some sort of vapor barrier there? I can't imagine it's a good idea to have the cut drywall edge up against the concrete.
>>
>>I'm eventually going to line the concrete walls with that foil-covered styrene insulation but need to get the drywall up first.
>>Get a scrap piece of the foil backed insulation, the exact thickness you plan on using. Set it in place then butt the drywall to it and secure the drywall. Use the styrene as a spacer, this will keep the drywall far enough away from the concrete. In the future you will then slide the styrene behind the drywall.
>>3) Speaking of the foil-covered insulation, do I need a vapor barrier behind it on the walls that are below grade?
>>I would use a vapor barrier on the concrete, then insulate. Clint
>>Current snakes:
>>
>>0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>
>>2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

Buying a house is a stressful time, I don't believe I explained my situation very well.

The third stall of my garage is all 8" poured concrete walls. The back wall and one of the sides walls are below grade. The other poured concrete side wall is a load bearing wall that separates the third stall from the rest of the garage.

The wall I framed runs between these two side walls - one of the below grade walls and the dividing wall.

At any rate, I'm going to use a vapor barrier on both sides of my framed wall. I'll run the paper side facing into the snake room. Since I won't be sheathing the garage side wall for a while I'll just go ahead and cover that with a plastic vapor barrier.

Clints:

Last night I decided to do what you suggested, use a scrap piece of the styrene insulation board as a spacer. I guess great minds think alike

Sounds like I should look into using that stuff more before I make my final decision. I could swear I've seen that stuff attached directly to poured basement walls with no molding issues but I'll double check.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

>>Buying a house is a stressful time, I don't believe I explained my situation very well.
>>
>>The third stall of my garage is all 8" poured concrete walls. The back wall and one of the sides walls are below grade. The other poured concrete side wall is a load bearing wall that separates the third stall from the rest of the garage.
>>
>>The wall I framed runs between these two side walls - one of the below grade walls and the dividing wall.
>>
>>At any rate, I'm going to use a vapor barrier on both sides of my framed wall. I'll run the paper side facing into the snake room. Since I won't be sheathing the garage side wall for a while I'll just go ahead and cover that with a plastic vapor barrier.
>>
>>Clints:
>>
>>Last night I decided to do what you suggested, use a scrap piece of the styrene insulation board as a spacer. I guess great minds think alike
>>
>>Sounds like I should look into using that stuff more before I make my final decision. I could swear I've seen that stuff attached directly to poured basement walls with no molding issues but I'll double check.
Chris, I don't know about the molding issues either, we use poly styrene(the pink board) on the exterior of foundation walls prior to backfilling the foundation. Clint
>>Current snakes:
>>
>>0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>
>>2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

Chris,

Now you're playing in my ball field. For your best long term results the concrete walls should be sealed with UGL or some similar concrete sealer, especially the below grade walls. Ideally these were backplastered before backfilling with the soil but you still will have some moisture seeping through.

If it's not too late you would be better to use the styro insulation in this application. Blue is 1.5" Pink is 2"...1" of styro is equivalent to 3.5" of fiberglass insutlation and you don't have as many moisture problems with the styro. The styro cuts quite easily with a utility knife and you can use the score and snap method. If you want cleaner cuts do it on your table saw. Don't mess around with the little precuts pieces, buy the 4x8 sheets of the pink or blue. Install the styro so that it is flush with the inside of the stud wall. The extra air space between the styro and the concrete walls will acutally add insulation value. Use visqueen sheeting on the inside of your stud walls after the styro is in place for vapor barrier. You want the visqueen to be able to wrap all the edges of your drywall. The excess can be trimmed off later with a utility knife.

As for your drywall, again if it's not too late you would be better off using the MR Moisture Resistant green board for your application. This stands up much better in humid applications.

Hope its not too late for some of this to be of help.

BigT
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Hope this helps.

BigT
There is a difference between ignorance and stupidity. The ignorant can be taught, stupidity is beyond our control.