Hello -
I also would concur that the area you're proposing is too small, for anything except a hatchling. Thus it may be sufficient for 6 months or so, if you get a neonate. Also, a lot of tortoises don't "get" glass, so I would further recommend covering the sides of the tank (assuming the sides were glass to begin with). A hide box, water dish, food dish, and sometype of cage furniture would all be necessary and recommended for the health of the tortoise. There also are a number of good caresheets available which spell out husbandry better than I can in this limited forum. Not too much food or too much protein, as either can result in more pyramiding than you'd like.
The conventional thinking has been (and in many circles, continues to be) that Star tortoises are not for beginners. Period. Not only are they relatively expensive and scarce, but they have a had a reputation for being difficult to keep. I personally think that this was especially true when most stars were wild-caught (and often wouldn't make it even if husbandry parameters were correctly "nailed"
. Nowdays, most stars are captive bred (although a fresh new wave of imports is currently coming in, so watch out).
I, like most experienced chelonian keepers, would (first and formost) steer you away from wild-caught tortoises. I personally don't think that stars are that much more difficult than most other chelonians, but others might disagree. They are a little shyer than some other species, so if you want a really outgoing tortoise, you might look at other species. I would also suggest that you continue to communicate with others who keep them (like you're doing), and build up a network of contacts. It's always good to have some type of informal support system, in case (knock-on-wood) your tortoise gets sick or is involved in a traumatic accident.
Keeping them outside in warm weather is good, but many tortoises (and box turtles) have met an untimely demise at the paws of a racoon. It's very important to make sure your outdoor enclosure is Racoon, dog, and varmit proof.
Good luck,
Scott Alexander
Vice-President, BAARS
The Bay Area Amphibian and Reptile Society