Dexter and I headed to the vet again. Went to a new vet that is only 5 minutes away versus an hour. This vet is also well known in the Chicago area - Dr. Steve Barten. Active with Chicago Herp Society and other reptile groups. We went in b/c Dexter has been sneezing/coughing. We went over Dexters living quarters carefully. I even took in a 30 sec video clip of his crib.
) We took an xray to make sure his bones were good and nothing in his stomach or anything - all looked good.
His tank is pretty darn good, but some things need to be changed. He was very happy that I use felt for the bottom. Dr. Horton said to use that so he wouldn't have impaction and get sand in his eyes b/c I had to have his eyes flushed one time. If you raise them for breeding though, I would think you would have to have sand though.
He also recommended that I get an infrared thermometer. He made sense with the 3 strips that I have in his tank. They are on the glass and on the side. He said the key is to measure temp right where the beem is hitting, etc. To actually know the temp in different spots AROUND the tank. So, I got one. I was very shocked at what I found. My guage in the back right top measures the heat of the basking light. It reads 115 degrees everyday. The strip at the bottom of the tank directly below the other one reads 90. That is also the side where I have his under the tank heater. Guess what!?! Temp near the front corner on the bottom was 144 degrees! Temp on the branch near the middle under the light was 140 degrees!!! Middle of the tank reads 90. Another part of the branch reads 101. And the cool side (right) temp strip says 80, but it was around 85 - pretty close, but no lights on that side. Amazing how it differs. He said no reptile owner should be without and I can see why. I feel horrible about the heat. No wonder he didn't go on the branch anymore.
He said he believes the coughing/sneezing is from his tank being too warm and dry. He said to make a humidity box. Take a ziplock disposable box and put a hole large enough for him to get in and out. No other holes. Put natural sphagnum moss inside that has soaked in water. Put half the box in the light and half out of the light. So, basically, I have it in the center of the tank against the back wall. He said it will provide the option to Dexter to go in for some more humid air. He may not use it, but he said he should have the option and I would agree. Since I have it in there, I have not heard him sneeze/cough. He also noted that lizards can sneeze and it is quite normal. They are sneezing to eliminate excess sodium in their system. usually they get rid of it by expelling, but when they can't, then they sneeze it at times. However, he is probably sneezing from very dry air.
He also said the same about Superworms for Eastern Collared's as Dr. Horton did - do not feed superworms to collared's b/c they have too strong of an shell.
He feels by working on finessing some things in his tank, he will begin to eat better as well. He said that really, Dexter looks really good. His weight is pretty good, etc. He can gain some more though he said. He was at 38g.
Both he and Dr. Horton also stated that what works for one E. Collared, won't necessarily work for another. They are all unique just as humans are. So he said to tweek things until we found out what really makes Dexter happy.
I know this is really long, but I just thought I would pass along info for all of you. Of course, you can do what you want, but just thought I would share is all. I have been to the vet many times now and have gone through a lot with Dexter and it is interesting to see one vets opinions versus another. But these guys are more than just vets, they are well known in the area for what they do. I figure if I have paid this much in vet bills, it would make me feel better to at least share some of what I have learned
)
JIM


