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Best way to put weight on an emaciated snake?

Dancingcat Feb 05, 2005 11:24 AM

Okay, I need help:

I recently (about 3 weeks ago) took in the most horribly emaciated blood python I have ever seen. He's lost a ton of muscle mass(he's tent shaped, not round), but still ha a strong food responce. The owner told me he needed work, and that he was used to frozen thawed, so I figured he's just not used to being handled or had a poor shed of something simple like that; boy was I wrong!!
This poor boy is so lacking in muscle tone that when lying on my arm, his skin folds over istelf where his body touches! We've been to the vet, gotten both panacure and baytril to treat the upper respitory and de-worm for good measure, and the vet just told me to start offering as many small meals as he'll take.
Isn't that powerfeeding, and isn't that a bad thing??? I've got several years of reptile experience, own 9 various other herps, and have always been under the impression that powerfeeding was a bad bad thing? Wouldn't flooding his system with food run the risk of cloging it up? Believe me, my first response is to stuff him with food, but I know there's got to be risks involved.
I've been giving him one small/hopper rat every 5-7 days so far. He's 3 feet long(haven't measured him yet) and almost 6 years old.
He shed for the first time last night, but no bowel movements so far. I began soaking him 10 minutes at a time in warmer water yesterday, as I've read that it'll help is he's constipated. Is there a chance he's just absorbed everything into his system?

Thanks in advance for any help,
Kim

Replies (1)

joeysgreen Feb 08, 2005 05:12 AM

No matter how starved your snake is there will always be fecal material following a meal. With such a small meal it is possible that the amount of fecal material is not enough to stimulate defecation. I wouldn't worry about over feeding at this point. The main concerns are any systemic problems cause by malnutrition these will become apparent as treatment proggresses. Considering that the snake still has a good feeding response it most likely will do fine with frequent, small meals.
The reason for small meals is that the digestive system tends to shrink without use. Large meals will be regurgitated causing further sickness and loss of electrolytes. If your snake has held down the original meal you can try an adult mouse the next day. Make sure that temps and husbandry is optimal. This is not the snake that will get by on the minimum requirements. Feeding small meals every day or every other day for the first little while will greatly benefit the snake (hoppers if everyday, adults if every second day). Keeping the snake hydrated is also very important. Monitor humidity. Your also doing great with the soaks, but be carefull not to stress the snake into regurgitation. Keep lots of fresh water available, and thawing rodents in warm water also adds to the water intake (if your snake will take them this way). Monitor for defecation, take back to the vet if constipation becomes a problem.
The frequent feedings can spread out a bit when the snake is acting normal and healthy. Regular feedings should occur once the snake is round, but not fat. The snake is probably forever stumped in size so keep that in mind when assessing what is "normal" for the species.

I believe there is also a rescue forum on kingsnake, they may have further advise, good luck with your snake

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