Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I got an AFT for my son 6 days ago. When we got him he was nice and plump and very alert. He ate a few crikets the first 2 days and pooped twice the first 2 days.

He hasn't pooped since and stopped eating. He still is plump and alert.

The AFT is about 7 inches long head to tail. He's in a 10 gal with a coco fiber base substrate (to hold humidity) and then a layer of Desert Blend Lizard Liter (crushed walnut shell). I have the ES Combo light sitting on top of the screen. The fixture has a day heat light, floresent UVB light and a blue night light.

The temp was around 90 with the daylight bulb on so I now raised the fixture up 3 inches from the screen. This will improve ventilation and lower the temps a bit.

I have been heavy misting the substrate under the log for humidity, changing the water everyday and having a few crickets available.

Does this set up sound OK? Is the AFT just stressed from the move or am I doing something wrong?

Sounds like your set up should work as is. Raising the lights up a tad was a good idea too. They don't really need it that warm. More like 80-85 degrees. Maybe just leave him alone for a few days to acclimate. They are nocturnal too, so the UBV isn't really necessary. Don't worry to much just yet. Good luck and keep us informed.

Quig

Oh...........is one end of the tank a little cooler than the other? It gives him the option to thermoregulate if he feels the need.

I did forget to mention that I have a heat pad under the cave which is on the same side as the the heat bulb. The side with the log is a bit cooler and that is the humid side.

Also, I re-checked for crickets and none were to be found. All I need now is a little gecko poop and I'll be a happy guy!

Seems he just needed to settle in for a few days LOL

If your Fattie was eating the first couple days it sounds like husbandry could be the problem.
Some things I would change are:

1. Take out the walnut shell substrate. It can definately cause impaction! It also has sharp edges and can cause serious damage to the stomache and intestines.
The coco fiber is just fine as long as you keep it misted.

2. Turn off the lights. These guys don't need any bright lights on them (that will stress them). Just use your under heat pad for the heat and it should be fine. If your temps get too cool, then add a ceramic heat emitter, since it doesn't emit any light.

3. Check your temps on the floor of the substrate to get reading. Use a temp gun to get an accurate temp. Check on the cool end and on the hot end.

4. Let him be for a couple weeks after doing the above (don't handle him). Just change his food out and give him clean water daily as well as clean any poop you find.

Lori

Lori,

What are the best temp ranges and humidity levels?

Thanks!

I took the Desert Blend out and replaced it with about 2-3 inches of coco bedding.

I already have a good infared temp gun and it showed 91 under the one hide and 67 under the other one.

I would try and get the cool side a bit warmer, in the low 80's on the cool end.

A thought just hit me........if you have a screened top, the warmth is escaping through the screen.
I would put a towel over the top of the enclosure at night to trap in the warmth.
In the day, just put a towel over half of the screened top.

If you are using a ceramic heat emitter at night, put a towel away from the emitter, but still covering the screen.

This will allow a better temp gradient in your enclosure.

For humidity ....they like it humid in their hide area. I just mist the coco fiber until it is moist. I use a different type of hide (tupperware container with hole cut in top) so the humidity stays in their for longer periods of time.

Lori

As for the screened top... I have a fixture that covers most of the screen. It seemed a bit warm in there so I evevated the fixture. The fixture has 2 incandescent bulbs and 1 florescent.

I made it so the hood is adjustable so I can lower it if you think that is better.

I would turn off those above lights altogether. The daytime is their sleeping time and they get stressed with lights shining down on them.
If you can obtain a blue light (heat) for one of the fixtures above, that would work better.

These guys don't require daytime UVB bulbs like some other species do.

Also, I would put some sort of backing on the sides and back of your tank. They need to feel secure and by being "wide open" like you have it could be stressful as well. You can use regular brown paper or some sort of decorative type, whatever you prefer.

Lori

For temp gradients mine are at low 80's on cool end and 92 on warm end.
It is going to vary depending on the type of enclosure.

If you keep the hide area damp under their hide, you should be fine. Since you are using the coco fiber, I would dampen it and stir it in so to speak (under the hide) and dampen again so it feels moist to the touch.

Lori

i agree about getting rid of the lights all together.......and personally, i feel a 10gal. tank is way too small for ur AFT.

I keep 2, male & female (in seperate vivs) 20gal. (long).
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I switched the substrate to coco fiber and took back the floresent bulb and day light bulb. The only lights I'm using now are an infared basking light and a blue night light.

Temps on the substrate are 90 on one side and 75 on the other. He seems pretty happy.

>>and personally, i feel a 10gal. tank is way too small for ur AFT.
>>
>> (long).
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Oh, I forgot to mention he will be going into a 20L or 30L soon.