Reptile & Amphibian Forums

ok i use to have an anole. untill i went to college i didnt have enough room in my dorm for both an anole and my leo. so i gave my anole to my cuzin who is doing everything right and cage looks nice exept we cant clean it.

the anole USE to go on my hand long enough to put it into another container. but now it wont even let u close and im afriad it will escape... so to the ?? How do i get the leo out t change the substrate. im going home over the weekend and going to do it for my cuzin.

also. he cant seem to keep the pinhead crix alive
can anoles be on a diet of mealworms? and is there a way to keep the criz alive. i use mealies for my LEO.

Sry for the long post but i had to get all he ?? in because no one chexs this forum
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1.0.1 Green Anole(tedo, bubbles)
0.0.1 Tremper Albino Leo gecko (Brut)
1.0.0 Small Dog( Cho lu la)

0.1.0 Beachy Girl Friend

Do Anoles need Calcium? if so a dish or dust the food, should it be with or without D3.
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1.0.1 Green Anole(tedo, bubbles)
0.0.1 Tremper Albino Leo gecko (Brut)
1.0.0 Small Dog( Cho lu la)

0.1.0 Beachy Girl Friend

The easiest way to remove an Anole (or other glass climbing lizard) is to trap it against the glass wall of the enclosure by putting a large deli dish over it and sliding the top between the Anole and the glass. They are spooked by fast sudden movements but you shouldn't have any problems if you are relatively slow and deliberate.
Yes, Anoles do need calcium supplements.

Calcium should have D3 only if you do not provide either unfiltered exposure to sunlight or a good UVB bulb.

Mealworms are about the poorest choice nutritionally for your lizards. You can try occasional waxworms, but they're very fatty. Crickets aren't hard to keep alive, but they are sensitive to their environment. Clean the cricket cage ofter, but don't clean it with soap - just very hot water. Don't use cleaning products near where the crickets are kept (move them until the smell is gone). Make sure they have good clean food and water sources. They are touchy about mold and bacteria, too. I use little plastic lids for food and gel water for the crickets that get cleaned and refilled every day. Stupid crickets get treated as well as the rest of my pets.
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Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.1 Uromastyx Geyri (Joe and Arthur)
2.0.1 Uromastyx Dispar Maliensis (Tank, Turtle, and Spike)
1.2 Anolis Carolinensis (Bowser, Leeloo, and Sprocket)
0.1 African Dwarf Frogs (Sheila)
1.0 Betta Splendens (Mr. Miagi)
1.1 Felis Domesticus (Roscolux and Jenny)

One of my anoles is the same way, he is NOT into the idea of being taken out of his terrarium..and he's a Haitian Giant so fairly big compared to my greens, and not easy to catch! But I found if I let him just climb up my arm and jump up on the plant that hangs above his terrarium, then he hangs out there until his home is clean then I blackmail him back in with mealies after I'm done Thankfully they have their own room, so if he feels like hangin' out a bit longer it's ok

Torey wrote:

>>Calcium should have D3 only if you do not provide either unfiltered exposure to sunlight or a good UVB bulb.

Yes I read that in The Under-The-Leaves Care sheet here on the KingSnake.Com board under the Care Sheets option on the Main Menu. I *think* it was you Torey who told me about that feature here. If it was, thanks! I appreaciate it! The person who put all of that information together on The Under-The-Leaves Anoles caresheet clearly spent quite a bit of time doing it. I learned a number of extremely important things from it about the proper care required to keep Anoles successfully in captivity.

In your experience is there a particular brand of calcium supplement (without vitamim D3) that you find better for some reason? Quality? Price? I'm gonna be needing some real soon since the calcium supplement which I got at the local pet store also contains vitamim D3 and when I bought it I didn't know any better. If I'm not mistaken too much vitamim D3 (a vitamim D3 supplement in Anoles diet along with exposure to a good UVB bulb/light source) *may* actually be harmful to Anoles. Yes? No?

>>Mealworms are about the poorest choice nutritionally for your lizards. You can try occasional waxworms, but they're very fatty.

Have you ever tried live Silkworms? I've read they're a very good live insect to feed Anoles, nutritionally. Of course I've also read that it's essential to vary an Anole's diet and not try to feed them the same type of live insect(s) all the time. Variety apparently is *very* important as far as Anoles' diet goes.

I gather because silkworms grow so fast local pet stores don't often carry them as they do crickets and waxworms. IAC because silkworms grow so quickly they could very quickly be too big to feed Anoles. I'll have to try to see if I can find a place online that sells them in some small manageable amount so I can at least see how my Anole likes them.

I use little plastic lids for food and gel water for the crickets that get cleaned and refilled every day. Stupid crickets get treated as well as the rest of my pets.

Hi Mom! Do you know a good online source and brand name of water gel? Sorry for all the questions.
When it's free one's gotta get as much as one can. Hehehe!

>>1.2 Anolis Carolinensis (Bowser, Leeloo, and Sprocket)

There it is! Bowser getting top billing as us-u-al!

I put a new ESU Desert 7% UVB Coil-Lamp - 20 Watt (incandescent screw-in type bulb for use in a light reflector dome fixture) above the over the screen top of my Anoles' tank/home today, but I'm concerned that 7% UVB may be too high for Anoles. Yes? No?

The deal I got on it was too good to pass up. ReptileSupply.Com has them for $16.99. The "Desert" in the name causes me some concern in that it may be intended more for lizards/herps that live in the desert which Anoles clearly do not. What do you think? The bulb also has UVA, but how much, I'm not sure.

I have it so there's a range of about 6"-10" looking down into the screened top of the tank so my Anole can bask under it where he likes since I've got a nice branching system in the tank which allows him plenty of spots to choose where he wants to bask. Damn these Anoles have a good life, don't they? When and where's our life where we get to bask in the light all the time and have our food and water brought to us too? Peace.

Shark~King

Email: LizardKing@TechWarrior.Net
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Shark~King

Go to www.watersorb.com for the cricket drink (gel). They sell it for about $13 for 2 lbs. Since two teaspoons will hydrate 32 ounces of water, you have a supply that will last for a l-o-n-g time. Get the 3-4 mm size (finished product). If you don't like the clear color, add a couple drops of food coloring to the water before you add the crystals. For best results, use either distilled or filtered water and store the crystals in a sealable container in a dry place and they will last for 5-6 years. The stuff also goes by the name of Agrisoak, Moistsoil, and many others and is used as an agriculkteral soil amendment. The only indredient is polyacrylamide.

The 7% is a little high at that range for anoles (I believe you said 6-10"...they are made specifically for desert reptiles because the reptiles because the reptiles that live in the desert are exposed to the unfiltered UV longer throughout the day than reptiles that live in tropical areas where the UV is filtered not only by the leaves and stuff but by the weather itself. As long as your anole has plenty of places to hide in order to shelter itself from the UV rays than it should be ok. Just be sure to have lotsa leafy plants and such

P.S. Your best UV setup for an anole at that range is a 5.0 for UV combined with a 2.0 for visible light..and now that you've gone with a higher UV, the visible light will be decreased even more so, which will effect the activity patterns and feeding habits

Actually, judging by the poor UVB put out by ESU bulbs, he's probably not even going to get as much UVB as with a Reptisun 5.0, so he should be fine. On the off chance that this particular bulb does pump out a lot of UVB, Blazed Betty is right in that he'll still be fine as long as he has foliage and things under which to escape the light. The percentage numbers really mean nothing. You need a UVB meter to actually tell how much the light is producing. If you're curious about the results of various bulb testing, you could join the UVB meter owners group on yahoo - LOTS of good info there, and you don't have to own a meter to join.

D3 is a fat-soluble vitamin, which means it's possible to overdose which is toxic. I use Rep-Cal in both the D3 and the D3free varieties, depending on the cage/critter I'm supplementing. I got that one because it was readily available, plus it's phosphorus free, which is a must.

I just get whatever cricket water is around. I'll have to check out that website recommended by Atrax - sounds much easier!
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Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.1 Uromastyx Geyri (Joe and Arthur)
2.0.1 Uromastyx Dispar Maliensis (Tank, Turtle, and Spike)
1.2 Anolis Carolinensis (Bowser, Leeloo, and Sprocket)
0.1 African Dwarf Frogs (Sheila)
1.0 Betta Splendens (Mr. Miagi)
1.1 Felis Domesticus (Roscolux and Jenny)

You can also go to the Pharmacy and get some Calcium carbonate powder to use as a calcium supplement. It is much cheaper than commercial stuff and just as effective.