Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Does that refer to a space between the heat tape and the tubs being used? And does that apply more toward belly heat? I'm in the process of building a pretty big rack (8'lx4'hx2'd) and I'd like to get it right the first time.

>>Does that refer to a space between the heat tape and the tubs being used?

Yes, sort of. When I talk about it I'm referring to a space between the heat tape and the foil-faced insulation.

>>And does that apply more toward belly heat?

Again, not really, but it applies there too.

If you're using back heat you need to make up for the inefficiency of such a system.

If you have a strip of heat tape down the back, then have a wood or pegboard back over that, then you need an air space between the pegboard and the insulation.

If you just have the strip of heat tape and then the insulation, this air space is less important, but leave one anyways.

The reason being is that as the heat comes off the tape it is traveling as radiant energy and moves in the direction it is pointed until it is reflected or absorbed.

If it hits a pegboard back it will be absorbed and move through the pegboard as conductive heat.

If your foil is touching the pegboard the heat will continue to move as conductive heat.

If there is an air space the heat will then start to move as radiant energy again.

Since the foil only blocks radiant energy, it does not do it's job when the heat is traveling conductively. You need that air space so the heat can covert to radiant energy and be reflected back by the foil.

So I just loosely wrap the back of my racks with Reflectix insulation. I should put in 3/4" spacers but it seems to work anyways. I take a bit of extra care to keep it loose at the bottom.

What is your rack made of?

Are you using a back of some sort? What if so?

What are you going to use to heat it? Belly or back heat?

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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

The rack is 1/2" fir. (you might remember the post lower) I had planned on using back heat. I was just going to staple the reflectix to the back wall and tape the heat tape to that. So the only gap I would have would be between the heat tape and the tubs. But the post below with the heat tape meltdown has me second guessing. I don't want to have to rig a sprinkler system above my rack because I'm not sure of the best way to do this.

>>I was just going to staple the reflectix to the back wall and tape the heat tape to that.

This is not ideal as the heat transfer from the tape will still be conductive. Better to leave an air space between the heat tape and the foil face.

Don't know what to tell you about heat tape. I don't use it either but many won't use anything else.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

Maybe I should go with belly heat? The tubs have feet so there would be a gap. And the room des get pretty cold in the winter. If I went with belly heat, could I just tape it to the bottom of the shelves? And what about preventing a disaster if there's a meltdown like below? Would the 1/4" gap be enough?

This is getting into the area where I don't feel comforable giving advice. I don't mind explaining the physics of radiant heat, air spaces etc. but when it comes to flexwatt safety I tend to bow out.

Just about everyone here is more experienced with it than me anyways.

>>Maybe I should go with belly heat? The tubs have feet so there would be a gap. And the room des get pretty cold in the winter. If I went with belly heat, could I just tape it to the bottom of the shelves? And what about preventing a disaster if there's a meltdown like below? Would the 1/4" gap be enough?
-----
Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

Through Kinsnakes messenger service. You might pay attention and see if your spam filter dumps it in your bulk folder or somewhere.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

>>Maybe I should go with belly heat? The tubs have feet so there would be a gap. And the room des get pretty cold in the winter. If I went with belly heat, could I just tape it to the bottom of the shelves? And what about preventing a disaster if there's a meltdown like below? Would the 1/4" gap be enough?

Bryan, I have some small experience in this department. Although Chris understands thermal dynamics better than i. What i write here is my understanding, some common sense, and ideas/solutions i've found while researching my own rack design/ h-tape heating setups. I have a rack 6'h 3'w 2'd pretty similar to yours. I was torn between belly vs. back heat as well. I decided to go with both.
For the belly heat i used 2 sections of 11" h-tape on each tub. My tubs have the feet, 1. they provide the air space which many believe prevents the h-tape from over heating. 2.The feet keep the bottom of the tub from coming into contact with the h-tape thereby eliminating damage due to friction.
For the back of the rack i ran a single piece of 11" h-tape from the top shelf all the way down to the bottom of the bottom shelf. Obviously on the same side as the tape under the tubs. I attached this with a staple gun where the tape meets a shelf. I then installed two layers of the foil bubble insulation. This is basicly the back of the rack. I didn't see any advantage/need to use peg board or any type of wood member. I feel the foil insulation helps to keep the heat from escapeing through the back, maybe even reflecting some back towards the tubs.
My reason for going with both heating methods was, i feel people who opt to use h-tape are not using enough to get the temps where they want/need them to be. In other words the h-tape is having to work harder then it was ment to, and running constant. It doesn't take a genius to figure out that this is potentially a porblem waiting to happen.
I was concerned as you are now. I researched this product as much as i could and i feel i came up with an effective, safe way to heat my rack. Its been up and running for a few months now, i hear the t-stats cycling every so often, so i know its not running constant. I've used my temp gun on the h-tape and it is not running "hot". I just went up there to shoot the temps 97.3 degrees. Any questions just ask. Clint
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

>>>>Maybe I should go with belly heat? The tubs have feet so there would be a gap. And the room des get pretty cold in the winter. If I went with belly heat, could I just tape it to the bottom of the shelves? And what about preventing a disaster if there's a meltdown like below? Would the 1/4" gap be enough?
>>
>>Bryan, I have some small experience in this department. Although Chris understands thermal dynamics better than i. What i write here is my understanding, some common sense, and ideas/solutions i've found while researching my own rack design/ h-tape heating setups. I have a rack 6'h 3'w 2'd pretty similar to yours. I was torn between belly vs. back heat as well. I decided to go with both.
>> For the belly heat i used 2 sections of 11" h-tape on each tub. My tubs have the feet, 1. they provide the air space which many believe prevents the h-tape from over heating. 2.The feet keep the bottom of the tub from coming into contact with the h-tape thereby eliminating damage due to friction.
>> For the back of the rack i ran a single piece of 11" h-tape from the top shelf all the way down to the bottom of the bottom shelf. Obviously on the same side as the tape under the tubs. I attached this with a staple gun where the tape meets a shelf. I then installed two layers of the foil bubble insulation. This is basicly the back of the rack. I didn't see any advantage/need to use peg board or any type of wood member. I feel the foil insulation helps to keep the heat from escapeing through the back, maybe even reflecting some back towards the tubs.
>> My reason for going with both heating methods was, i feel people who opt to use h-tape are not using enough to get the temps where they want/need them to be. In other words the h-tape is having to work harder then it was ment to, and running constant. It doesn't take a genius to figure out that this is potentially a porblem waiting to happen.
>> I was concerned as you are now. I researched this product as much as i could and i feel i came up with an effective, safe way to heat my rack. Its been up and running for a few months now, i hear the t-stats cycling every so often, so i know its not running constant. I've used my temp gun on the h-tape and it is not running "hot". I just went up there to shoot the temps 97.3 degrees. Any questions just ask. Clint
>>-----
>>0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
>>1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
>>1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
>>0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
>>0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

Chris, I was wondering what your thoughts are on the back of my rack with the bubble foil insulation over the h-tape? I have it doubled up for added insulation. My thought was that with the bubble insulation there is already an air space??? Let me know what you think. Clint
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

Hi Clint,

Well I'm some baseboard molding and door casing away from having my snake room done. Unfortunately the team I coach is hosting state championships this weekend so no more work until Monday. Stay tuned...

>>Chris, I was wondering what your thoughts are on the back of my rack with the bubble foil insulation over the h-tape? I have it doubled up for added insulation. My thought was that with the bubble insulation there is already an air space???

This is true, there is an air space and it does have some effect. But take you temp gun and hit the back of the rack. What are the temps of the areas right over the heat tape vs. areas far away from the heat tape? If they're dramatically different you're not taking full advantage of the reflective properties.

I did a bit of testing with an oil-filled, radiator style heater. When the Reflectix touched the heater the back of the foil heated up. When I moved it even a 1/2" away it was basically room temperature. This suggests it was reflecting heat better 1/2" away.

Same priciple as baking a potato. When you wrap a potato tightly with foil you can bake it in the oven.

If you could somehow suspend that potato in foil such that the potato was 1" away from the sides of the foil it would barely warm up in the same amount of time.

My guess is that you are losing some reflectivity if you have the flexwatt right on the Reflectix. Curious to hear your results.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

I just recently modifed my racks with rope-light and Reflectix.

I went and shot the back of the racks as well as some scrap Reflectix I had on top of the rack.

Even on areas where the rope-light was touching the Reflectix I could detect no difference in temperature.

I'm guessing the much hotter temps of my space heater explain my previous results.

BTW, the rope light is doing an amazing job. I have a large tub that is the farthest away from my space heater and closest to the coldest part of my room (window area). Even in this 25 gallon tub (yes gallons, not quarts) two loops of rope-light have the back of the tub 8* warmer than the cool end.

One strand is doing an even better job on my sweater box rack and I have not even stapled down the reflectix yet. It's so loose you can see light coming out of the back of the rack.

I think the application of this Reflectix in herpetoculture are endless.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

>>I just recently modifed my racks with rope-light and Reflectix.
>>
>>I went and shot the back of the racks as well as some scrap Reflectix I had on top of the rack.
>>
>>Even on areas where the rope-light was touching the Reflectix I could detect no difference in temperature.
>>
>>I'm guessing the much hotter temps of my space heater explain my previous results.
>>
>>BTW, the rope light is doing an amazing job. I have a large tub that is the farthest away from my space heater and closest to the coldest part of my room (window area). Even in this 25 gallon tub (yes gallons, not quarts) two loops of rope-light have the back of the tub 8* warmer than the cool end.
>>
>>One strand is doing an even better job on my sweater box rack and I have not even stapled down the reflectix yet. It's so loose you can see light coming out of the back of the rack.
>>
>>I think the application of this Reflectix in herpetoculture are endless.
>>-----
>>Current snakes:
>>
>>0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>
>>2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)
Hi Chris,
Do you plan on working with any other reptiles than what you have currently listed. Sounds to me like you are primed for a collection expansion.
I like the reflectix as well. I had no idea what i was going to use as a back for the rack. I was looking at polystyrene as well as the foil faced variety. Then i saw the rolls of reflectix, good price,good r-values and reflective as well.
I like the rope light idea, any ideas on 24 hour applications. In other words rope light without the light??
I just shot the back of the rack 75 on average on the cool side, 78 on average where the vertical h-tape runs. Not bad, to be truthful thats why i doubled the insulation up. I didn't shoot the temp with one layer as my hand told me all i needed to know. See ya, Clint
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

>>Do you plan on working with any other reptiles than what you have currently listed. Sounds to me like you are primed for a collection expansion.

I agree. I live in the range of Pale Milksnakes and understand I can keep several of them legally. That is very tempting as I can keep several of them in a very small rack.

I'm currently keeping 2.2 Rhyncophis boulengeri for a friend and I could see keeping some of them.

Otherwise, I'm pretty dedicated at the moment to figuring Gonyosoma out. They can be an extremely difficult species to work with. They also take up a lot of space so I'm going to be pretty crammed within the year.

I have not worked with a Green Tree Python or Emerald Tree Boa in years, probably 15 or more. So these "new" Amazon Basin Emeralds are intriguing.

>> I like the rope light idea, any ideas on 24 hour applications. In other words rope light without the light??

You'd have to go with the red or blue versions which filter out much of the visible light. Or you could run the red or blue stuff in grooves and cover that with PVCX.

What I really like about the rope light is how cheap it is and how well it heats on a per-wattage basis. That's what I meant when I said it was doing an amazing job. I don't know exactly what the wattage equivalent is behind my tubs, but it's much, much less than flexwatt. My sweater boxes are several degrees warmer in the back and I probably only have about 3 watts of power behind each tub. I don't know how many watts of flexwatt would be the equivalent but I assume more?? Of course it's probably the Reflectix.

I need to write the company and find out how many watts per foot my product has.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

>>>>Do you plan on working with any other reptiles than what you have currently listed. Sounds to me like you are primed for a collection expansion.
>>
>>I agree. I live in the range of Pale Milksnakes and understand I can keep several of them legally. That is very tempting as I can keep several of them in a very small rack.
>>
>>I'm currently keeping 2.2 Rhyncophis boulengeri for a friend and I could see keeping some of them.
>>
>>Otherwise, I'm pretty dedicated at the moment to figuring Gonyosoma out. They can be an extremely difficult species to work with. They also take up a lot of space so I'm going to be pretty crammed within the year.
>>
>>I have not worked with a Green Tree Python or Emerald Tree Boa in years, probably 15 or more. So these "new" Amazon Basin Emeralds are intriguing.
>>
>>>> I like the rope light idea, any ideas on 24 hour applications. In other words rope light without the light??
>>
>>You'd have to go with the red or blue versions which filter out much of the visible light. Or you could run the red or blue stuff in grooves and cover that with PVCX.
>>
>>What I really like about the rope light is how cheap it is and how well it heats on a per-wattage basis. That's what I meant when I said it was doing an amazing job. I don't know exactly what the wattage equivalent is behind my tubs, but it's much, much less than flexwatt. My sweater boxes are several degrees warmer in the back and I probably only have about 3 watts of power behind each tub. I don't know how many watts of flexwatt would be the equivalent but I assume more?? Of course it's probably the Reflectix.
>>
>>I need to write the company and find out how many watts per foot my product has.
>>-----
>>Current snakes:
>>
>>0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>
>>2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

Chris, You keep a variety of asian ratsnake, yes. If memory serves i've seen that name in a ratsnake book of mine, i'm, pretty sure. I'd love to see some pics. of those setups.
My brother inlaw who just finished building a home, had an electrician installing some of that rope lighting in his bedromm. I asked sparky how many watts a running foot, he didn't know. Could a person make a 90 degree corner with that product?
Clint
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

It's gonna take some extra work, if it'll even work. First, I'll more than likely have a space heater in the room as well to offset the lower temps in the room. So I think I'll stick with back heat. I can always add a 3" strip of belly heat if it's needed. That being said, what if I go with the plywood, since I have it already. Cover that with the reflectix. Now on the edges of the heat tape there's some space. What if I were to attach 1/2" or 3/8" rails to that space and attach it to the reflectix by the rails? The part of the tape that means anything would never touch anything, have 1/2" of space between itself and the insulation, and 1-2" of space between the heat tape and the tubs? Aside from the rails the only extra work involved is extending the back a few inches since it could no longer sit flush against the shelves with this new idea. If there were a failure the likely hood of anything catching fire or melting are low since the heat tape doesn't touch anything. I'm also using 11" heat tape to cover two rows (about a total of 17" of space). What I mean by that is instead of one 3" strip per row, one 11" strip divided by the shelf basicly. Am I on to anything here?

>>It's gonna take some extra work, if it'll even work. First, I'll more than likely have a space heater in the room as well to offset the lower temps in the room. So I think I'll stick with back heat. I can always add a 3" strip of belly heat if it's needed. That being said, what if I go with the plywood, since I have it already. Cover that with the reflectix. Now on the edges of the heat tape there's some space. What if I were to attach 1/2" or 3/8" rails to that space and attach it to the reflectix by the rails? The part of the tape that means anything would never touch anything, have 1/2" of space between itself and the insulation, and 1-2" of space between the heat tape and the tubs? Aside from the rails the only extra work involved is extending the back a few inches since it could no longer sit flush against the shelves with this new idea. If there were a failure the likely hood of anything catching fire or melting are low since the heat tape doesn't touch anything. I'm also using 11" heat tape to cover two rows (about a total of 17" of space). What I mean by that is instead of one 3" strip per row, one 11" strip divided by the shelf basicly. Am I on to anything here?

If i follow you correctly then the reflectix is on the outside of the rack?? If i built my rack again there is not much i would change, except i would pre-make some spacers for attahing the indivivual shelves. I see no need for a back on a rack if your going to use the reflectix. Reflectix is flame retardent, if that is what you are worried about. You have the h-tape running down the back of the rack, the next material should then be the reflectix. That is if i read your description correctly. Clint
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

Looking at it from the front it would be tubs, heat tape, reflectix, then plywood. I would only use the plywood if I were using the rails idea so i had something to attach the rails to.

>>Looking at it from the front it would be tubs, heat tape, reflectix, then plywood. I would only use the plywood if I were using the rails idea so i had something to attach the rails to.

Why use plywood at all, the only way i would have put a solid back on mine was if i was not using an insulative material? You are using a t-stat, yes? Are you planning on casters? Depending on how tight your tubs fit from front to back, i would cut a 1/2" deep notch out of the shelves the width of the h-tape. This would give you the air space and keep everything flush. What kind of saws are you working with? Is this rack assembled yet?
Clint
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

Yes to the t-stats, I'm using 2. And no, I haven't put it together yet. I have every saw there is. I'm handy with wood so it not a problem modifying anything. So I can tape the heat tape right to the insulation? I'm really only concerned with safety. Summer is coming, so back heat will be fine for a while. If need be I can easily run belly heat later.
p.s.
cris, thanks for that site

>>Yes to the t-stats, I'm using 2. And no, I haven't put it together yet. I have every saw there is. I'm handy with wood so it not a problem modifying anything. So I can tape the heat tape right to the insulation? I'm really only concerned with safety. Summer is coming, so back heat will be fine for a while. If need be I can easily run belly heat later.
>>p.s.
>>cris, thanks for that site

I stapled my h-tape to the back of the shelves. My thought for an air space was to cut a 1/2" or 3/8" deep slot the width of the h-tape from the back of the shelves. This would allow you to have an air space and still attach the reflectix to the back of the rack. If you follow me the h-tape would be countersunk. With just one layer of reflectix and no air space, i was loosing heat out the back. I still don't have an air space, but i doubled up the reflectix. Now from the heated side to the cool side i get a 3 degree difference from my temp gun. I feel i can live with it. Thats why i asked if yours was assembled yet and what kind of saws you have. Seems to me it would be worth the effort to cut the slot from the back of the shelf, giving yourself the air space. Goodluck, let me know how things turn out. Clint
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

>>>>Yes to the t-stats, I'm using 2. And no, I haven't put it together yet. I have every saw there is. I'm handy with wood so it not a problem modifying anything. So I can tape the heat tape right to the insulation? I'm really only concerned with safety. Summer is coming, so back heat will be fine for a while. If need be I can easily run belly heat later.
>>>>p.s.
>>>>cris, thanks for that site
>>
>>I stapled my h-tape to the back of the shelves. My thought for an air space was to cut a 1/2" or 3/8" deep slot the width of the h-tape from the back of the shelves. This would allow you to have an air space and still attach the reflectix to the back of the rack. If you follow me the h-tape would be countersunk. With just one layer of reflectix and no air space, i was loosing heat out the back. I still don't have an air space, but i doubled up the reflectix. Now from the heated side to the cool side i get a 3 degree difference from my temp gun. I feel i can live with it. Thats why i asked if yours was assembled yet and what kind of saws you have. Seems to me it would be worth the effort to cut the slot from the back of the shelf, giving yourself the air space. Goodluck, let me know how things turn out. Clint
>>-----
>>0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
>>1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
>>1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
>>0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
>>0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

ssssss
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

I was thinking about using casters. This thing is so big I have to build it in the room it's going in. I think it's gonna work out pretty good. How long should I wiat for the paint to offgas?

>>I was thinking about using casters. This thing is so big I have to build it in the room it's going in. I think it's gonna work out pretty good. How long should I wiat for the paint to offgas?

I built mine in the room as well, mine is just to dam heavy. If you ever have to get under the rack, even once you'll be glad if you put casters on. I think the of gas question depends on what type of paint you used as well as ventilation issues. i think if you can't smell it, give it another day and you should be fine.
Clint
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"