Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I was just curious about white lip pythons. I would like to know there temperment, how hard they are to care for and be handled and how big they get/required living conditions. I am considering buying one and want to make sure I can care for it. I have a ball right now and love it and am wanting to expand my collection.

Hi,

check out http://leiopython.de Fact & Care and you may want to read the postings in the forum. If you have further questions, feel free to contact me at wulf@leiopython.de

Cheers,
Wulf
The Leiopython Page

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http://www.leiopython.de - the white-lipped python site -
http://www.herpers-digest.com - herp related eBooks search -

Thank you very much for the site. It was extremely helpfull. I am still curious about a few things. Apparently they are strike happy... So are they agressive and bite because they are simply mean snakes or is it a scared defensive strike most often? also if I want to pick it up and it bites me, is it ok just to go ahead and pick it up after it bites you? Also I heard they are climbers. So should the cage be set up like a tree boas or can I just have the same set up as my ball python? Thaks again for al of your time.

I forgot to add something, I am horrible with metric. Is 2.2m about 4 1/2 ft? Because golden phase gets about 2.2m and I am not sure of the exact size that is.

Hi,

well, WLPs aren't really mean or aggressiv. They are alert and do not hesitate to defend themselves. The greatest challenge is to get the snake out of its cage It will start hissing frequently "sss...sssss.....sssss" first and if you touch the animal it will perhaps strike at you with its mouth wide opened.
Once outside of the cage they usually calm down very quick and can be handled quite good then. If you get bitten, I guess you woun't want to handle the snake after that again :-D

Yes, they climb very much even as adults and you would do good to provide purches and roots, but not as much as for GTPs or so.
Also provide a dark "viewsafe" hiding place in an cooler area of the cage. Fresh water should be provided at all times. It is important to keep up humidity at about 75%. You may want to provide a hiding box with damp moss alternatively.

The so-called "golden phase" has an average size of about 6ft(1.8m). Some are 7ft (2.1m) long though. The so-called "black phase" is larger and has an average size of 8ft (2.4m), few grow up to 9-10ft in lenght.

Cheers,
Wulf
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http://www.leiopython.de - the white-lipped python site -
http://www.herpers-digest.com - herp related eBooks search -

ok time for more annoying questions from the guy who wants a pretty snake. ok first off, the humidity... I have a ball python right now. And that is really easy, turn on the light & pad fill the water bowl. That's about it. Balls don't really have a humidity requirement. Could I get away with just spraying the tank everyday and that cause enough humidity? also, if I had a hiding place with moss could I just mist the moss once or twice a day and that be enough humidity? Also with my ball python I just have a 55 gallon long tank. I have the light above the water dish and the heatpad under the water dish. on the other side of the tank is his hide-a-log. could I have the same kind of cage setup? also, I'm asuming that you (wulf) have a wlp. Should I expect to be bitten often? I know you say they are alert but will I be bitten every time I touch the snake? Because I want a snake I can handle. My ball has never bitten me. He bit my friend once but it was in middle of a shed and my friend shouldn't have messed with her anyway. So will it hurt if/when the snake does bite me? I'm sure it's nothing I couldn't handle but I am sure it will happen somewhat frequently. I have heard they are more aggressive when young. is this true? Also if you get them young can you tame them in to submission? I guess a better way to put it would be, if you get them young can you handle them enough to where they are comfortable being taken out of the cage and handled? One last thing, just for discussion sake say I go a mild tempered wlp not too good not too bad tempered. How often should I expect to be bitten? Daily? Weekly? Monthly? keep in mind that I would like to handle the snake. Thanks again wulf

Hi,

first of all there is one thing to say: Stop comparing a wlp with a ball python! They are definitly not comparable in any way!
If you just know ball pythons for now, it will be sort of cultural shock. That's just to keep in mind when asking about wlps.

Ok, now lets see: Young wlps tend to digg in the substrate so it wouldn't be a good idea to use a head pad that is not secured. Adults will perhaps mess up the whole cage in the first couple of days. They will spill the wather out of the bowl, moving hiding places and all. You should think about this when providing things to your wlp. If it is enough to once mist the cage or the damp moss I can't say. It depends on your cage (size, material, heat isolation...).
You assumption is correct. I have six wlps, and just sold the last of ten off springs from 2004.
If you get bitten often depends on the animal and the way you handle it. If you are fast enough to grab the snake without gettin bitten you may be lucky. But hey, these animals are lightning fast strikers! If you have stressed animals or wc animals I guess you can expect the snake will strike at you every time, but as there are also some animals around that are less alert than others. You may have luck with one of these. But as a general answer to you question: Yes, it will happen every time. You better wear gloves.
If an adult wlp bites you, it hurts. It sure does. They have about 150 theeth, the first 2-3 are quite large.

More aggressive when young isn't unusual in any snake species. They simply have more enemies and have to defend themselves. But I have some young ones that woun't even try to bite me when I grab into the cage. By handling the snake frequently some can be tamed, others will never do good in captivity. As I do not handle any of my snakes often, I can't tell you if they will tame down for sure.
A general answer for discussion would be: Wlp's do not like to get touched anyway. Handling a wlp is totally different from handling a ball python. It will be a quite new experience! Most of the wlp owners I know will refuse to handle their wlps often, because they will stress out quickly. Another thing to keep in mind is, that they are very sensible to RI! If you can't provide mid 90°F over the day and the low 70°F at night and high humidity you will kill your snake in a little time.

Cheers,
Wulf
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http://www.leiopython.de - the white-lipped python site -
http://www.herpers-digest.com - herp related eBooks search -

So perhaps a wlp isn't the best answer.....I honestly may accidentally kill the snake since I am not experienced with high maintenance snakes. Which is a shame since the wlp is an extremely beautifull snake. I am very particular when it comes to snakes. I am tired of the basic black/brown boa python pattern. I am looking for something flashy and different. (and under $500) I know this is now the wrong forum but would I be better off going with an amazon tree boa or would I be bitten just as regularly? Or can somebody just recomend a good looking snake that has a good disposition and isn't high dollar or high mantenance? btw please don't say piebald (think that snake is hideous) Thanks again for your time.

Hi there,

well acutally a amazon tree boa istn't much easier to care for than a wlp! The also need high humidity and are also known for biting.
If you want a nice looking easy going biod snake, check out the different subspecies of Morelia spilota ssp. (aka carpet pythons). There are lots of them around, great looking, mostly easy to care for and not to expensive. If you'd like a little bit smaller perhaps you can find a pretty Antaresia species (Children's python, Spotted python etc.). There are so much beautiful boids around anyway.

Cheers,
Wulf
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http://www.leiopython.de - the white-lipped python site -
http://www.herpers-digest.com - herp related eBooks search -

wlp"s are awesome...beauty and personality, wulf is obviously one of the authorities on this species ( i would love to purchase some of your offspring, wulf). i have been fortunate over the last 28 years to get a hold of many calm specimens that feed well on a regular basis, and tolerate handling.....the few i have now are handled several times a week by my children ( the snake keepers....aka cage cleaners/snake handlers & feeders). i have never attempted to breed these guys but am giving it serious consideration this coming year. but, if you are looking for something along the lines of the white lip but don't want to take the risk of an aggressive snake i would suggest the rainbow boas, same frame as wlp's, extremely beautiful (high humidity requirements) but generally tame and tolerant. good luck with your decisions...whatever they may be
regards,
mike

thanks for the suggestions. I cannot legally own anything over 6' (city ordinance) but I would be willing to take something up to 7' (noone will REALLY care) I don't really know what I want anymore... everyhting I look at turns out to be a real pain in the ass.... I am one of those ppl who doesn't really see the value of a snake unless you can handle it without much trouble or stressing the snake. Handling is 1/2 the fun in my opinion. I would consider a spotted python.. I don't know anything about them so if someone has info please do tell.. aka total length, disposition, living requirements(heat, humidity, etc.) Thanks again.

which is more manageable? A carpet or spotted python? Also considering a redtail boa... Which would be the best "next step" for a ball owner?

Just reading the post because I was looking into wlp's also. A boa's requirements aren't that different from a balls. Very easy to handle once you "socialize" them so to speak. Given what I've read I'd say you wouldn't find a red tail to be a pain in the butt. The only thing I would suggest is try to get a male and it'll stay at a reasonable size, I've seen some females get HUGE.

I love White Lips ( I still prefer D'Albert's!) Pythons but there are a few caveats.
Unless you get a baby and handle it often, you will probably have a snake that wacks you when you reach into the cage.Most D'Albert's will do this, although many are ok once they are out of a cage. They definitely never like being pried from a tree limb!
If you do get a baby, make sure it is very well-started as far as feeding. Baby albertisi are tough to get started.
So why do I like them so much? Well, I think they are the most elegant, beautiful snake in the world. Coiled on a tree limb, under a light, they are magnificent. I think of them like Chondros and Emeralds: ornamental beauties that I don't need to handle.
Hope this helps and good luck,
Steve B.

Stupid question. I have pretty much decided on a redtail boa... Because I don't know anything about anything else... But my question is, if you can handle a snake at the pet shop, and it has good temperment. A little headshy of course but still a good snake. Aside from the fact it may have some trouble adjusting toa new cage. Will the snake have about the same temperment as in the pet shop? I wouldn't normally buy from a petshop accept they have a baby redtail with good temperment and it looks very healthy. And they are only asking 110.00 for it. So is this a good deal or not? Thanks again all

You can find one cheaper but once you factor in shipping it works out close to the same. And yes, if you have no problems handling it at the pet store it should make a fine pet. Chances are it'll only get better with time too. Keep in mind, if it's a female, it's gonna get big. Might wanna move this over to the boa forum now that you've decided on one.

I haven't quite decided on a boa or python. I am just trying to explore my options. If I have anymore questions about another species I will try to go ahead and move it to the appropriate forum. I am still accepting suggestions on a good python. BTW how big will a redtail get? M&f thanks again.

I'd say 8' is average