Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I don't actually have frogs, but I do have a crested gecko and I'm thinking the same plants safe for frogs would be safe for him. You're probably wondering why I'm posting here...well, that board isn't very talkitive regarding habitat design. They mostly like to discuess color morphs. I just need help making sure I've got things set up right! You guys seem like a busy little section covering a range of topics.

When I initially started the cage, I was advised to purchase a full lid (aquarium style) with the tank. I did so, set it up natural style (dirt, driftwood, etc...) and within days had a massive fuzzy white mold outbreak. The crestie board advised changing to a screen lid, which I have since done, and I now have no problems. I have since changed back to dirt as of last night after using paper towels for awhile. I still have fake plants, a non running waterfall (need a pump), and some wood.

I would love to add real plants in there. What kinds are safe and what should I make darn sure I avoid? I'd like some that he can actually sit on and have it support his weight. Keep in mind he's bigger than a frog. How deep of a substrate do I need, and is the petstore bought dirt (the kind you mix with water) ok for live plants? Do I need to fertalize them and if so what do I use that's safe for him? Do the plants need special lighting or is the normal aquarium light ok? He doesn't require supplemental heating, so I just use the light that came with it for my viewing pleasure and daytime/nighttime cycles. I don't have a green thumb in the least, but I'm willing to learn. Hardy plants would be highly appreciated!

Last question...forgive me for being nieve. I'm sure you guys hear this all the time, but are poison dart frogs still poisonness in captivity? I heard from someone that they're only poisonness in the wild because of something they eat and when they don't get it in captivity they lose that trait. True or BS?

What's the price range for the average pet quality dart frog? I've always thought they were beautiful, but it seems they would be delicate.

Thanks guys.
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1.0.0 Thoroughbred
0.0.1 Mali Uromastyx
0.0.1 Bearded Dragon
0.0.1 Crested Gecko
0.0.1 Milk Snake
1.2.0 German Shepherds
0.2.0 Cats
0.1.1 Birds (Conure and Cockatiel)
1.1.0 Rabbits
4 Fish tanks (SW and FW)

For a gecko, the sturdy pothos is good, except you will need to trim it at lot, as they are enthusiastic growers. There are so many good choices. You could try the bromeliads. This is strictly my own opinion, and others may disagree, but few plants are going to be toxic to an animal that doesn't eat it. The danger comes from the lunge and grab type frogs that may break off and swallow a piece of toxic plant inadvertently. I even have Euphorbias growing in a desert lizard tank with no problem. Use tropical type plants.

Make a drainage layer about 3 inches deep with coarse rock and gravel, perhaps some charcoal and cocoanut fiber hunks (comes in small squares.) Separate this from the top-soil with a sheet of garden weed inhibitor. This is the black plastic stuff that is used around garden plants. It has tiny holes in it for drainage and can be purchased in a roll at a nursery. This will keep the soil from clogging up the drainage. The soil layer I prefer is an organic composte, or any mix that doesn't have perlite, vermiculite OR FERTILIZERS in it. You can top this with a layer of Bedabeast or other milled cocoanut fiber substrate. (Again, I buy the bulk stuff.) Your plants will grow fine in this if you simply keep the soil moist. If you notice the drainage area getting too full of water, just insert a lenghth of aquarium air hose tubing down to the bottom in one corner and siphon it out, as if you were siphoning gas. I use a 30cc veterinarian syringe, not a leuer lock, just one with the plain tip, to start the syphoning.

If you have the proper light for a gecko, it is going to be just fine with most tropical plants.

You asked about the cost of darts. The best darts for someone just experiencing their first dart keeping may go for about $30.00 plus shipping. The prices may range up to $150.00 or so for the move coveted fellows that are less easy to breed.

They do lose their toxic qualities in captivity for the reason you have understood. The reasons haven't been entirely elucidated yet, but they are safe for you to keep if they have been captive bred. (I've read some recent tales of some apparently remaining toxic qualities when someone handled one of the more toxic fellows giving it medications, the frog was stressed and exuded something that irritated his hand. He then licked his hand and sort of tripped out, but one shouldn't handle them bare-handed anyway, for their sake rather than yours. I have handled one auratus with bare hands in an emergency capture, but otherwise have never had reason to touch them.

I'm sorry it has been so long before you got any answer. This forum doesn't seem very active anymore, either. I hope I covered everything you asked, at least to give some clues. If you do go in for darts, believe me, you won't be disappointed. They aren't all that difficult to keep.
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Patty
Pahsimeroi, Idaho

4 D. auratus blue
5 D. galactonotus pumpkin orange splash back
5 D. imitator
6 D. leucomelas
4 D. pumilio Bastimentos
4 D. fantasticus
4 P. terribilis
4 D. reticulatus
4 D. castaneoticus

Thanks so much for the reply! I really appreciate it.
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1.0.0 Thoroughbred
0.0.1 Mali Uromastyx
0.0.1 Bearded Dragon
0.0.1 Crested Gecko
0.0.1 Milk Snake
1.2.0 German Shepherds
0.2.0 Cats
0.1.1 Birds (Conure and Cockatiel)
1.1.0 Rabbits
4 Fish tanks (SW and FW)

I thought of a couple more sturdy ones. You might look for some of the smaller Ficus, Spathyphyllum (Chinese Evergreen), Syngonium, or maybe even some of the smaller, slow-growing palms. The problem with the sturdier plants is they usually get too large for the vivarium unless you have a really large one. There are some fairly sturdy Peperomias and Piper. Check Black Jungle's plant list. Or you can allow something like the Pileas or Pellonias such as watermelon vine, to twine around a branch. Although these wouldn't be climbable for a gecko ordinarily, they recover from breakage, and would afford a nice cover if supported with a driftwood branch of some sort. They are almost unkillable in a relatively humid tank, will climb a background such as cork or pressed cocoas panels enthusiastically. None of these are toxic.
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Patty
Pahsimeroi, Idaho

4 D. auratus blue
5 D. galactonotus pumpkin orange splash back
5 D. imitator
6 D. leucomelas
4 D. pumilio Bastimentos
4 D. fantasticus
4 P. terribilis
4 D. reticulatus
4 D. castaneoticus