Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I've decided to purchase another rack for my ever growing group of snakes and have been looking at a few different manufacturers. I already have an Animal Plastics 7 shelf blanket box rack (full) that I've been happy with, but I'm interested in opinions on the Boaphile model as well, mainly due to the difference in building materials and heating method.

Any one have both models for a comparision?
Have you noticed much warping or bowing on the Boaphile rack?

I'm thinking about the possibility of stacking a 10 shoe box hatchling rack (also from Boaphile) on top of the new rack. I have plenty of 2221 and 2220 Rubbermaids after stocking up when the pickings were slim last year.

Also, what kind of gap have you noticed on the Boaphile between the boxes and the shelves? Call me paranoid, but I've shimmed some of the boxes on the AP rack to make sure the smaller snakes are staying in the tubs. I'll hopefully have some hatchlings in the next few years (mainly Asian Rat snakes, African House Snakes, Western Hognoses) and am concerned about the possibility of escapes with the smaller snakes.
Thanks,
Lora
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Lora

>>Any one have both models for a comparision?

No, but I have friends with them.

>>Have you noticed much warping or bowing on the Boaphile rack?

There is bowing. Hard to avoid with plastic.

>>Also, what kind of gap have you noticed on the Boaphile between the boxes and the shelves?

The gap is much tighter in the Boaphile than the AP. Unfortunately with the slight sagging this just makes the boxes harder to slide in and out - something I really dislike in a rack.

I don't know what species of Asian Ratsnakes you're considering, but I generally consider them to be very good escape artists. African House snakes are extremely good.

I'm sure the Boaphile would hold them but I really dislike boxes that sieze. Sort of defeates the purpose of a rack, IMO. I'd rather shim the boxes than deal with a tight box.

The one company that I'm sure would work is Jason's Jungle but I understand he's not building as many racks.

Another rack I've not seen but suspect is very good would be those made by Doug Barr at Herpcages.com.

I would encourage you to e-mail Vision and see what their plans are with their new rack design. I e-mailed them a couple of weeks ago and they are building a rack for me around the CB-80 box I use and said they plan to design racks around many other boxes. I did not ask what those many other boxes were, sorry. In my case they were already planning a CB-80 rack so they were able to throw one together. I have no idea what they are planning for the rubbermaids or how long it will take before they are out.

Otherwise, I'm really not sure what to tell you. I just can't see spending the money charged for racks nowadays unless they are 1) light, 2) secure, and 3) function (slide) well. As an aside I also would expect them to last but none have been out long enough to make that determination.

If I'm only getting two out of the three, which is all most racks provide, then it had better at least be cheap. And I've yet to see a cheap rack
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

I found the Boaphile ok but had a few problems with it.

When I took it out of the box I had to slide it a few inches to set it in place and the left rear corner where the cords come out seperated/pulled out of the groove a bit. Boaphile responded promptly and advised me to whack it into place. Cracked the side panel a bit. it didn't go back into the groove. Serviceable but disheartening.

I pulled out the two bottom supports to slide in the 1756 size in place of the two 1754s and the top three supports all hang to the left or right not quite reaching the top of their compartments.

I find the bottom large boxes drag(waterbowl spills)not happy about that. The smaller boxes are sliding just fine.

I'm not too happy with it although it's ok. Thats why I'm hoping for better with the AP 10 box I just ordered. Hope this helps. Please let me know what you wind up doing.What do you mean by shimming the boxes? I'm using the rack for a Black milk colony side project and I also would like to avoid escapes. I too am paranoid. Thanks Bob.

seem to know their stuff.

Thanks Bob...np

>>I find the bottom large boxes drag(waterbowl spills)not happy about that. The smaller boxes are sliding just fine.

Sorry to hear about your troubles with the Boaphile rack. The larger boxes dragging and shaking water out of the bowl is unacceptable, IMO.

>>What do you mean by shimming the boxes?

Basically wedging something underneath the boxes so they stay put. I have done this before when a company changed their box to be almost 1/8" shorter than the previous years model. It really was not a big deal. Again, much better than dealing with a dragging box. The first racks I ever built had pine sides. I did not anticipate the wood shrinking in my warm herp room and the boxes started to seize up. Major pain, IMO.

>>I'm using the rack for a Black milk colony side project and I also would like to avoid escapes.

I've heard these are pretty good at escaping for a larger snake. My biggest concern would be if the CB-70 varies in height as much as my CB-80's. That seems unlikely since they are only half the height, but I have measured other 6" tall boxes that varied quite a bit.

Fortunately, though, it's usually just one corner of any single box box that just droops a bit. If you take your time and find this corner on every box you have you can leave it towards the front and shim it after you close the box.

I'm sure this will be fine for adult black milks. You'll have to see the rack before you place subadults in it.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

n/p

I have a friend that owns several Animal Plastics racks and they look and work great!!

But remember you really should buy your stuff from "a real company with real products and a real warantee". They invented the plastic rack, the plastic cage. They even invented the snake cage!! Come to think of it, I heard they invented the boa constrictor! Yeah right!!!

Hello,

Designing a rack for yourself is quite simple, you know exactly what you want. Designing racks for the masses is a little more difficult. We have had requests for gaps between the tubs from 1/4" to no gap.

We decided that we would try to design the gaps so that most people would not have to drill holes in the tubs for air ventilation. (We know how dreadful drilling holes in tubs is)

Also keep in mind that some tubs, especially rubbermaid 2221, are not always flat. It seems that most 2221's are slightly twisted and have a high corner on them, this makes them a little harder to slide in and out if your gaps are not set right.

The gaps in the hatchling racks are much tighter for smaller colubrid species. Once they out grow the hatchling rack they would be ready for the juvenile and adult racks with the larger air gaps.

Anyway, just thought I would get on and describe why we design them the way we do!

Thanks,

Mark Mertens
Animal Plastics

>>Also keep in mind that some tubs, especially rubbermaid 2221, are not always flat. It seems that most 2221's are slightly twisted and have a high corner on them, this makes them a little harder to slide in and out if your gaps are not set right.

This is a good point but the high/low corners are there anyways. Whenever I get a new batch of any plastic boxes I use a straight edge to make a perfectly flat surface on my work bench. I then place the tubs on their and fill them with very hot water.

Once the boxes cool they stay flat. But they still have high and low corners, often as much as 1/8" difference.

Combine that with a 1/8" gap and there can be problems for certain species.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

Interesting idea with the hot water, I will try that with some of our 2221. I do agree with the low corner, very frustrating.

Thanks,
Mark Mertens
Animal Plastics

I remember the soaking trick from a previous post from Chris when I got my AP rack a couple years ago. Since then, I always soak the tubs in very hot water prior to doing my airhole drilling and placement in the rack, in hopes that it will settle the tubs some. I have had to switch some tubs around to make sure the smallest snakes always got the tub with the smallest gap. I keep the smallest hatchlings in locking top critter keepers, once they get some size to them, then I transfer them over to the 2220 tubs.

As to your question about which Asian rats I'm planning to breed, I've got pairs of Mandarins, Leopards (European- but similar size as hatchlings), Rhinos, and am looking to pair up my coxi and climacophoras this season.

I appreciate the responses and it's given me some thoughts about which company to go with. I agree that too tight a fit on the tub is harder to deal with than too loose (but if it gets really bad, I can always sand or file some high points off a tub).

Thanks again, I really appreciate all the advice. I should come to a decision here shortly...

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Lora

n/p

>>I have had to switch some tubs around to make sure the smallest snakes always got the tub with the smallest gap.

You can also check which levels are the tightest. Then you can put the shortest boxes in the tallest levels and vice versa to even everything out. Or if you just a few truely great escape artists then put the tallest boxes in the shortest levels.

But really, I've found it's most important to find which corner of any given box is the shortest and have it towards the front of the rack. Easier to keep an eye on and shim if needed.

>>As to your question about which Asian rats I'm planning to breed, I've got pairs of Mandarins, Leopards (European- but similar size as hatchlings), Rhinos, and am looking to pair up my coxi and climacophoras this season.

Rhyncophis and E. p. coxi are what I consider excellent escape artists, even as adults. Leopards I would assume are in the same class as bimaculata and diones which are very good.

Mandarins and climacophora are pretty normal colubrids as far as ability to escape, although I've never worked with climacs.

I have a friend with a room full of plastic racks. He has one cobbled together melamine rack is to hold his bimaculata, diones, Mandarins, and coxi. They were escaping too often from his plastic racks. Fortunately his room was tight and he was able to find them. I don't think the mandarins actually escaped but he put them in the melamine rack for peace of mind.

I'll see if I can get him to respond to this thread. He likes his plastic racks, just won't keep the small stuff in them.

Regardless, I would put a premium on security for all these species, even as adults.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)