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I bought a 18' strand which equals 100 watts. After some thinking on enclosing these in conduit i decided to go another route. The enclosure i'm heating is 42"l,20"w,18"h. I layed the rope light out on the floor in an ess pattern, this took up 15"x20" area, although by opening or closing the loops this dimension could be expanded or reduced. My idea is to put some reflectex on the ceiling of the enclosure, then the clips for the rope light. This will give me an air space of about 1/4" once the lights are clipped into place. I will then use some 1" stock to form a frame around the perimeter of the lights. After this is complete i will attach a piece of frp to the 1" frame, basicly making a radient heat panel for a fraction of the cost. Obviously i would use a t-stat to keep the temps in check. The lights costed me $8 and change the rest of the materials i have on hand. What all this comes down to is needing a 24 hour, non light emitting, heat source as my rack as well as this furture enclosure is in my bedroom. If any are still with me here, what are your thoughts on this project???? Clint
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

>>I layed the rope light out on the floor in an ess pattern, this took up 15"x20" area... My idea is to put some reflectex on the ceiling of the enclosure, then the clips for the rope light.

I'm confused. Are you ultimately going to put the rope light on the ceiling or on the floor? Did you lay the rope light out on the floor just to get an idea of how much space it would take up?

>>This will give me an air space of about 1/4" once the lights are clipped into place.

The air space be between the rope light and the Reflectix, I assume?

Will the rope light be in contact with the FRP?

>>basically making a radient heat panel for a fraction of the cost.

I'll be curious to see how efficient it is.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

>>>>I layed the rope light out on the floor in an ess pattern, this took up 15"x20" area... My idea is to put some reflectex on the ceiling of the enclosure, then the clips for the rope light.
>>
>>I'm confused. Are you ultimately going to put the rope light on the ceiling or on the floor? Did you lay the rope light out on the floor just to get an idea of how much space it would take up?
>>Yes, rope light on the ceiling
>>>>This will give me an air space of about 1/4" once the lights are clipped into place.
>>
>>The air space be between the rope light and the Reflectix, I assume?
>> yes
>>Will the rope light be in contact with the FRP?
>>Ultimately no, 1" stock maynot suffice. I may have to rip down 2" stock.
>>>>basically making a radient heat panel for a fraction of the cost.
>>
>>I'll be curious to see how efficient it is.
>> What wattage is a comparativly sized heat panel. The lighting is as of now in a room thats 65 degrees, and would still need a t-stat to keep the temps down. The 18' equals 100 watts. As of now the lights are still on the floor of the box. I would hope with the aid of the refletix it would radiate some of the heat back into the enclosure. I'm sure as of now i'm loosing a certain percentage through the floor. Clint-----
>>Current snakes:
>>
>>0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>
>>2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

I have rope lights and this past xmas put them on my living room floor and pluged them in and used my temp gun to see what the was and it was only 66 degrees at 2 inches....i would be very carefull you are getting the propper heat for your snakes......just my opinion.

Paul

>>I have rope lights and this past xmas put them on my living room floor and pluged them in and used my temp gun to see what the was and it was only 66 degrees at 2 inches....i would be very carefull you are getting the propper heat for your snakes......just my opinion.
>>
>>Paul
My temp gun reads 143 at 0" and 103 at 3"?? My hands would say the same as it was pretty warm to set them in the pattern i chose. The lights have been tested just sitting on the floor of the enclosure with a dual digital termometer. Its plenty warm in there. Clint
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

What wattage is a comparativly sized heat panel?

I believe Helix makes a 11"x30" panel that is 115 watts. I believe ProProducts have a higher wattage density and are able to operate at cooler temperatures. Since I'm guessing your first attempt won't be super efficient I think the Helix comparison is most appropriate.

BTW, that Helix panel costs just over $100, I believe.

As of now the lights are still on the floor of the box. I would hope with the aid of the refletix it would radiate some of the heat back into the enclosure. I'm sure as of now i'm loosing a certain percentage through the floor.

On the same note, I would strongly recommend insulating the floor with a reflective layer as well. I used the foil-covered poly-iso in my fiance's bearded dragon cage and it's done a great job.

I covered it with linoleum, not sure if that is enough fire resistance or not. I also did not include an air space between the linoleum and the foil so I've probably lost a lot of efficiency that way.

If you can, build up that floor with some 5/8" stock and lay reflectix inbetween. Then cover with FRP.

Your homemade RHP will be much more effective with some reflection on the floor.

I suppose the ultimate question is how many years will it take for the $80 you saved to be made up by more expensive electric bills. That's a bit tough to determine. Heck, maybe this will be just as efficient.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

>>What wattage is a comparativly sized heat panel?
>>
>>I believe Helix makes a 11"x30" panel that is 115 watts. I believe ProProducts have a higher wattage density and are able to operate at cooler temperatures. Since I'm guessing your first attempt won't be super efficient I think the Helix comparison is most appropriate.
>>
>>BTW, that Helix panel costs just over $100, I believe.
>>
>>As of now the lights are still on the floor of the box. I would hope with the aid of the refletix it would radiate some of the heat back into the enclosure. I'm sure as of now i'm loosing a certain percentage through the floor.
>>
>>On the same note, I would strongly recommend insulating the floor with a reflective layer as well. I used the foil-covered poly-iso in my fiance's bearded dragon cage and it's done a great job.
>>
>>I covered it with linoleum, not sure if that is enough fire resistance or not. I also did not include an air space between the linoleum and the foil so I've probably lost a lot of efficiency that way.
>>
>>If you can, build up that floor with some 5/8" stock and lay reflectix inbetween. Then cover with FRP.
>>
>>Your homemade RHP will be much more effective with some reflection on the floor.
>>
>>I suppose the ultimate question is how many years will it take for the $80 you saved to be made up by more expensive electric bills. That's a bit tough to determine. Heck, maybe this will be just as efficient.
>>-----
>>Current snakes:
>>
>>0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>
>>2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)
Chris, the panel will be placed on the ceiling. I'll put the frp on first then the clipsand lights, box it out with whatever stock that will give me enough clearance for the lights then the frp. I'm sorry for the confusion, i just have the lights layed out on the floor to see if i could configure my idea as well as see if it will heat the enclosure sufficently. I was stating that with it just sitting in there in a cold room, i'm still getting the enclosure heated, but was certain that there was heat loss and that it may be more efficent once everything was in order. Clint
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

Chris, the panel will be placed on the ceiling.

I understood that. My point is that as you radiate that energy towards the floor you want something to block it.

So essentially you need Reflectix on both the floor and the ceiling. Obviously it's most important behind the rope light (on the ceiling), but I think you'd be very surprised at how important it is on the floor as well. This holds true for any cage.

Also, I would drill a tiny hole in the wooden frame of your RHP, large enough to stick the probe of a digital thermometer through.

I think you want to have an idea of how hot it's getting inside of the RHP and compare that with the surface temp.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

>>Chris, the panel will be placed on the ceiling.
>>
>>I understood that. My point is that as you radiate that energy towards the floor you want something to block it.
>>
>>So essentially you need Reflectix on both the floor and the ceiling. Obviously it's most important behind the rope light (on the ceiling), but I think you'd be very surprised at how important it is on the floor as well. This holds true for any cage.
>>
>>Also, I would drill a tiny hole in the wooden frame of your RHP, large enough to stick the probe of a digital thermometer through.
>>
>>I think you want to have an idea of how hot it's getting inside of the RHP and compare that with the surface temp.
>>-----
>>Current snakes:
>>
>>0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>
>>2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

I follow you now, yes, a step of sorts would be acceptable. I thought of the hole as well, but i was going to use it to view the lights in case of a burnout. I'm worried a little about heat build up, then again with t-stat things should be ok?? Did you read my other post about the temps? my lights a 0" read 143 degrees. Clint
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

I'm worried a little about heat build up, then again with t-stat things should be ok??

The problem with relying on a thermostat here is that it's monitoring the temperature inside of the cage, not inside of the RHP.

So let's say you have the probe placed at a typical basking spot and set at 90*. Now what if during the colder months the inside of the RHP is 175*? What I'm saying is that I'd like to have an idea of how warm things are getting inside the RHP in order to achieve your desired temps. A thermostat is only going to keep your cage at warm temperatures, it's not going to guarantee the inside of the RHP is safe.

Did you read my other post about the temps? my lights a 0" read 143 degrees.

Yes I did. What brand of rope light is this? Mine was on for hours and I had trouble getting a reading of over 100*. Most were 97* to 99*.

Mine is Flexolight from Good Earth Lighting, Inc.

-----
Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

>>I'm worried a little about heat build up, then again with t-stat things should be ok??
>>
>>The problem with relying on a thermostat here is that it's monitoring the temperature inside of the cage, not inside of the RHP.
>>
>>So let's say you have the probe placed at a typical basking spot and set at 90*. Now what if during the colder months the inside of the RHP is 175*? What I'm saying is that I'd like to have an idea of how warm things are getting inside the RHP in order to achieve your desired temps. A thermostat is only going to keep your cage at warm temperatures, it's not going to guarantee the inside of the RHP is safe.
>>
>>Did you read my other post about the temps? my lights a 0" read 143 degrees.
>>
>>Yes I did. What brand of rope light is this? Mine was on for hours and I had trouble getting a reading of over 100*. Most were 97* to 99*.
>>
>>Mine is Flexolight from Good Earth Lighting, Inc.
>>Mine are made by sunbeam, manufactured by l'image home products. The watts equal 5.5 per ft.
>>-----
>>Current snakes:
>>
>>0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>
>>2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
>>
>>3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)
-----
0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"

>>>>I'm worried a little about heat build up, then again with t-stat things should be ok??
>>>>
>>>>The problem with relying on a thermostat here is that it's monitoring the temperature inside of the cage, not inside of the RHP.
>>>>
>>>>So let's say you have the probe placed at a typical basking spot and set at 90*. Now what if during the colder months the inside of the RHP is 175*? What I'm saying is that I'd like to have an idea of how warm things are getting inside the RHP in order to achieve your desired temps. A thermostat is only going to keep your cage at warm temperatures, it's not going to guarantee the inside of the RHP is safe.
>>>>
>>>>Did you read my other post about the temps? my lights a 0" read 143 degrees.
>>>>
>>>>Yes I did. What brand of rope light is this? Mine was on for hours and I had trouble getting a reading of over 100*. Most were 97* to 99*.
>>>>
>>>>Mine is Flexolight from Good Earth Lighting, Inc.
>>>>Mine are made by sunbeam, manufactured by l'image home products. The watts equal 5.5 per ft.
>>>>-----
>>>>Current snakes:
>>>>
>>>>0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
>>>>
>>>>3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
>>>>
>>>>2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
>>>>
>>>>3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)
>>-----
>>0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
>>1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
>>1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
>>0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
>>0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"
I figured out the high temp readings. As i have it loosly layed out on the floor of the box some strands are touching each other hence the elevated temps. This will not be a problem once the clips are in place and the strands are evenly seperated. Clint
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0.1 Colombian Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "Honey"
1.0 Hogg Isle Boa-(Boa Constrictor Imperator) "un-named"
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa-(Epicrates Cenchria) "Houdini"
0.1 Argentine Boa-(Boa Constrictor Occidentalis) "Lacie"
0.0.2 Green Tree Python-(Morelia Viridis)Biak type-"Smog" & Sorong type- "un-named"