Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Ok, if you saw my previous post, you sort of get the idea of what I'm looking for. What I need now is some ideas for designing the ultimate hot snake enclosure. I'm planning on putting a Pygmy rattlesnake in it, so it doesn't have to be too big, just large enough to insure safety. What I need help with, since I've never handled hot snakes before, is all the safety features that you can think of to design in to insure safety and escape proofing. Any and all ideas are welcomed, thank you in advance.

>>Ok, if you saw my previous post, you sort of get the idea of what I'm looking for. What I need now is some ideas for designing the ultimate hot snake enclosure. I'm planning on putting a Pygmy rattlesnake in it, so it doesn't have to be too big, just large enough to insure safety. What I need help with, since I've never handled hot snakes before, is all the safety features that you can think of to design in to insure safety and escape proofing. Any and all ideas are welcomed, thank you in advance.

Most Zoos have one or two boxs to the keepers side of the enclosure that can be used as hide boxs when the animal is in one they can close it of from the enclosure to do maintance. Some of these are also removable to allow transport etc. I would also have a good viewing window in which to see the animal. And plenty of husbandry tools!
My 2 Cents
Jeremy

I have kept hundreds of venomous snakes over the years. I'm out of them now, however.

I prefer front opening cages or secure racks for venomous snakes. Whichever you use make sure you can open the individual enclosures with a snake hook, not your hands.

Pigmy Rattlesnakes are not the best escape artists in the world but security is still important. Many types of rattlesnakes are known for facultative parthenogenesis which means you can produce babies even without keeping a pair. This may also happen from sperm/zygote storage.

Babies are tiny, make any cage secure enough to hold babies, even if you're only keeping one snake and are convinced it's a male.

Other than that, I think it's most important that the room where the cage sits is secure. Not only secure, but set it up such that an escaped snake can be found in minutes with minimal moving of items. If you keep other reptiles and they'll be in the same room, make sure their cages are higher and have space inbetween. In case of an escape or a snake that drops of the hook and makes a run for it you want to be able to find it without moving anything. Think visual access between and behind anything that is in the room.

Cover heat registers with screen, put rubber thresholds on doors, and consider even covering windows with screen. Remove whatever unecessary surface area you can.

Another overlooked item is a backup emergency light source. I had a powerful emergency light that was hard-wired in my room. In case of a power outage the lights would click on. This is one of those features you'll never use but will be glad to have if you do.

There are cheaper ways to do this nowadays, especially after the September 11'th tragedy and the massive blackout that hit the NE a couple of years ago.

Look for an emergency flashlight. It will plug into a standard socket and will turn on if there is a power outage.

You should post this question on the Venomous forums and Crotalid forums as well.

>>>>Ok, if you saw my previous post, you sort of get the idea of what I'm looking for. What I need now is some ideas for designing the ultimate hot snake enclosure. I'm planning on putting a Pygmy rattlesnake in it, so it doesn't have to be too big, just large enough to insure safety. What I need help with, since I've never handled hot snakes before, is all the safety features that you can think of to design in to insure safety and escape proofing. Any and all ideas are welcomed, thank you in advance.
>>
>>Most Zoos have one or two boxs to the keepers side of the enclosure that can be used as hide boxs when the animal is in one they can close it of from the enclosure to do maintance. Some of these are also removable to allow transport etc. I would also have a good viewing window in which to see the animal. And plenty of husbandry tools!
>>My 2 Cents
>>Jeremy
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

Heheheh, he DID post on the venomous forum first, and it was a TOTAL disaster. It got way off topic, and he never got an answer from anyone, so I pointed him in THIS direction. Already, he's got way better responses.
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Tom
TCJ Herps
"The more people I meet, the more I like my snakes"

Thank you very much, those are all great ideas that I hadn't considered, which is exactly what I was looking for. Funny you should mention it, my plane landed in NYC 30 mins after the lights went out 2 yrs ago. I now carry a flashlight whenever I travel. I did have a small keychain LED light then which was helpful. It was supposed to be a vacation but turned out to be an adventure. Thanks again for the insights. I did post this in the venomous forum, but it turned into a discussion on where someone could find a pygmy rattlesnake and my original question kinda got forgotten.

thank you!

I would not reccomend getting a poisoness snake if you have never handled a "hot" snake before, i would definitally try and find someone who would be willing to teach you how to handle him properly to ensure the snakes health as well as your own and if you do get bit it can have devasting results not only for your health but for other herpers who keep "hot" snakes especially in your state. Try practicing with other non-venomous herps to prepare for "hot" snakes such as coachwhips, water snakes (if you can handle and catch these snakes properly you should have a better chance of not getting bit by your "hot" herp.) Just my 2 cents GOOD LUCK

Derek

Also very good advice, thank you