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I have a heating problem??Can anyone help??

sondra7772 Mar 16, 2005 08:03 AM

I have a 55 gallon tank set up I have a Zoomed 50-60 gallon heat mat under the left side, I have 2 basking lights set up on the left side and one on the right, I also got the night time blue bulbs. My problem is this...I can't get the left side above 75degrees and the right side above 70 degrees. I have everything else set up, incl. humidity gauge, 2 thermometers (one on each side) and anotherin the middle. The only thing I don't have is a snake yet, I am not going to get it until my tank is heating properly. Does anyone have any suggestions??

Replies (11)

crtoon83 Mar 16, 2005 11:55 AM

What wattage are the bulbs, and what is the amibent temperature in your house? I'd also say to look and make sure no A/C vent is blowing directly or indirectly into your tank. Where are you taking these temperatures? Best place is about a 1/2 inch above the substrate. Substrate stays cooler than the air temp, so thats why I say to take the temp above it.

Some things to try:

* Higher wattage bulb(s).

* If it's under an A/C Duct, get yourself some plexiglass and cut to the top of the cage, then tape it down. (I'm about to have to do this so ill post pics shortly.)

* Insulate the tank. Go down to home depot, look on their shelf lining display, and get yourself some cork shelf liner. Run this at least along the back, if not one or both sides. I have it along the back and in addition to helping keep heat in, it looks nice (It's not an EXTREME insulation, just minimally helping.)

Also... what kind of snake is going in here?
-----
-Chris

The reason mainstream thought is thought of as a stream is because it's so shallow. -George Carlin

A fool doesn't learn. A smart man learns from his mistakes. A wise man learns from the mistakes of others. Which one are you?

My Website
N. American Rat/Corn snake care sheet I wrote
Information on substrates

Current snakes:
0.1 Licorice Stick Black Rat (Lola)
1.0 Black Rat (Frankie)
0.1 Texas Bairdi (Rosa)
0.1 Blue Beauty (Brunhilde)
1.0 Green Tree Python (Monty)

sondra7772 Mar 16, 2005 01:18 PM

I am getting a jungle diamond cross for my husband as an anniversary gift.

The temp in the room itself is usually about 70 and the bulbs although I'm not positive I think they'r 75watt. There are no ducts in the room but it is a bit drafty by the windows but the tank is not near the windows, and the thermometers are about a half inch from the substrate one on the left back wall and one on the right back wall, then ther is a humidity gauge and another thermometer in the middle of the back wall closer to the top of the tank.

Thanks for your help, I think we might try the cork idea.

guttersnacks Mar 16, 2005 12:31 PM

Another suggestion would be to put something like a brick or 2 where the lights are shining down on. The brick will suck up some of the heat and radiate it out, rather than the "hot air" just floating up and out of the tank. Just like walking on a road at night after the sun has gone down, it'll stay pretty warm compared to the ambient air tempurature. There are other meterials that would work, bricks are just cheap or free in some cases. They might look tacky though depending on your tank setup.
-----
Tom
TCJ Herps
"The more people I meet, the more I like my snakes"

sondra7772 Mar 16, 2005 01:19 PM

Thanks Tom I appreciate the help.

Drosera Mar 17, 2005 12:11 AM

A nice alternative to brick, may be this... often in semi-metropolitan areas, you find places that sell big stone slabs for bricklaying, gardens or interiors. Well, stone slabs are heavy and brittle, so small pieces often break off which are next to useless for the company. But those pieces may be perfectly sized for a tank. With a little bit of polite inquiry, you may be able to get some lovely pieces for remarkably cheap prices by weight or even free.
The only catch is the possible need to sand any sharp edges off via wet emerycloth or tough wet sandpaper. Water would prevent any dust from flying around. (and then you'd need to clean the sanded piece etc...)
-----
0.2 chickens (Falcon & Condor)
0.2 dog mutts (half ownership, only mine when they misbehave, Lucy & Amy)
0.1 Halflinger horse (Crissy)
0.0 Arizona Mountain Kingsnake (coming soon)
1.1 parents
Still searching for 1.0 WC human

rhallman Mar 16, 2005 02:29 PM

I agree with the others that a new basking light with a higher wattage may solve your problem. One thing that was not mentioned was your heat pad under the tank. The size of your cage might be reducing the ambient temperature above the heat pad but how warm is the actual surface? Raise your ambient temperature in the one end of your cage but make sure the surface temperature does not get to warm for the snake to use.
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Firehouse Herps

sondra7772 Mar 16, 2005 02:47 PM

Should I have a thermometer on the bottom as well? under the substrate? How hot is too hot for the surface? I just want to be absolutely sure before we put the little gal in there. We don't want any injuries caused by ignorance :0)
Thanks everyone for all the replies.

crtoon83 Mar 16, 2005 02:56 PM

I don't use under tank heat so hopefully someone who uses it but this what i've been told in the past:

you can take a few sheets of newspaper and actually tape all around on top of the glass bottom, since glass holds heat, the newspaper will prevent direct contact while letting the heat radiate through. However i've also been told as long as it doesn't burn your hand by lying it on there it's ok? i'd think it should be a little cooler myself, seeing that a snakes avg body temp is lower than ours.

The brick idea is very good, but if you want something that looks a little better consider a piece of slate.

I don't know anything about that snake you're interested in getting, but if it needs a higher humidity i'd reccomend either cypress mulch or coco husk for the substrate, and you definately will need to cover the top of the screen top with something solid. Using aluminum foil will also help refract heat back into your cage. (just leave holes for your lights)
-----
-Chris

The reason mainstream thought is thought of as a stream is because it's so shallow. -George Carlin

A fool doesn't learn. A smart man learns from his mistakes. A wise man learns from the mistakes of others. Which one are you?

My Website
N. American Rat/Corn snake care sheet I wrote
Information on substrates

Current snakes:
0.1 Licorice Stick Black Rat (Lola)
1.0 Black Rat (Frankie)
0.1 Texas Bairdi (Rosa)
0.1 Blue Beauty (Brunhilde)
1.0 Green Tree Python (Monty)

MADNORWEGIAN Mar 16, 2005 03:02 PM

Not for nothing, but you sound like you will be a great mother to your snake! Snakes can be enigmas...my Ball Python stays away from the heating pad and basking lamp. I think he thinks he's a Garter Snake!
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1 Corn Snake (Snakey)
1 Ball Python (Sosa)
1 Pine Snake (not named yet)

sondra7772 Mar 17, 2005 09:23 AM

Thank you for the compliment, the snake is actually for my husband (I am a big turtle gal myself) but I have always enjoyed snakes because my father had them when I was growing up.
And thank you to everyone who gave me some great ideas, we have now got the heat up to 80degrees and 90 in the basking area so I think it's okay. We changed to higher watt bulbs and we'r still going to get the cork and try that as well.

janome Mar 16, 2005 08:03 PM

Hi. Not sure on the jungle diamond crosses but I have a jungle carpet python. I house mine in an 80 gallon tank since he's 6 foot. I have a UTH on one side with a 100wt basking light for day time and a 75wt red light for night time. With the screen lid I have 3/4 of it covered with seran wrap and tin foil to help keep heat and humidity in.(Although jungles don't need that much humidity) With our room temps in the 76plus range its easier to keep his temps right. Mine will show in the 80's in the day and down to the 70's at night.
In my opinion though you shouldn't have lights on both sides of the tank. You want to be sure to have a temp gradiant with a warm side and cooler side. Also timers are great for the lights to go on/off.
If you go on the python forums you might get some more help.

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