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Building an Incubator question.......

HTDesigns Mar 17, 2005 07:13 AM

Hello to all and thanks for your help.

If I put a fan in my refridgerator along with the ceramic element and plug them both into the thermostat will this cycle the fan on and off as well?

thanks Paul

Replies (20)

glkherp Mar 17, 2005 08:51 AM

Yes it will. You want the fan on a separate circuit.

George Knaack
GLK HERP

HFR Mar 17, 2005 08:59 AM

>>Hello to all and thanks for your help.
>>
>>If I put a fan in my refridgerator along with the ceramic element and plug them both into the thermostat will this cycle the fan on and off as well?
>>
>>thanks Paul
>>

Paul,

It sounds as though you're fan is going to run everytime the heat kicks on. If that's the effect you're looking for, sounds like it should work as long as your thermostat can handle the wattage from both the heating element and fan at the same time. It's going to depend on what type of fan you're using as well.

Some things you may want to consider in case the fan is too large for what you're using it for or kicking on too much (drying things out) -

Use a small fan away from the eggs themselves, wired or plugged in independantly to a multi stage timer. This way you could have the fan kick on as little (short bursts) or as much as you'd like throughout the day and not necesarily just when the heat kicks on. I guess it's going to depend on which type of thermostat you're using as well in your current set up - analog or proportional. A proportional may act as a rheostat on the fan, only giving it the small amount of juice that the heating element is receiving and then shutting off after the desired temps are reached. And analog is going to run the fan full blast everytime the heat is kicked on, full blast, until the temps are reached.

I've stayed away from using fans in incubators up to this point, and will continue to do so if I can. For the most part, they're not necesary (and cause more possible problems) if the incubator is designed without the need for them in mind. Just my oppinion.

Good luck with it.

-----
Joe Yakelis
HellFire Reptiles

SnakeSmith Mar 17, 2005 12:43 PM

Hi Joe,

I too am looking into converting a standup freezer into an incubator. I have not started experimenting with it yet, but figured I will "have to" have a fan in it due to it's height (approx. 3ft). I do not know what the temp. gradient will be from top to bottom without the fan. I will be using a Helix thermostat, not sure what for a heating element, 5 cubic foot upright freezer maintained at 90 deg. F in a room approx. 70 deg. F. Are you able to maintain a uniform incubation temp. from top to bottom without a fan in this type of situation?

Thanks,
Glenn

HFR Mar 17, 2005 02:54 PM

>>Hi Joe,
>>
>>I too am looking into converting a standup freezer into an incubator. I have not started experimenting with it yet, but figured I will "have to" have a fan in it due to it's height (approx. 3ft). I do not know what the temp. gradient will be from top to bottom without the fan. I will be using a Helix thermostat, not sure what for a heating element, 5 cubic foot upright freezer maintained at 90 deg. F in a room approx. 70 deg. F. Are you able to maintain a uniform incubation temp. from top to bottom without a fan in this type of situation?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Glenn

Hey Glenn,

I'm a fan of the "old fridge" or freezer type incubator and have built a few of them. Unfortunately, I've also pulled some hair out while doing it, trying to get consistent temps without a fan. As you know, the problem with anything upright like that is that no matter where you put your thermostat's probe, the top is always going to be warmer than the bottom - if there's nothing to circulate the heat and the heat source is distributed throughout the shell. But, the fridge shells I've always used were full size. And the one you speak of is only 3' - which should pose less of a problem for you than a full sized fridge or upright freezer.

I'd experiment with the location of your heat source within the incubator if you intend on using flexwatt or pipe tape. I know of others that have used a single piece of 11" flexwatt up the back center of their incubator, and it did the job well enough to hatch Gilas in an incubator similar or just slightly smaller in size to yours, if I'm picturing your's correctly.

No matter what, the larger in height you go the more difficult it's going to be to regulate. There's nothing wrong with multiple smaller incubators instead of one big one as well. You may have to experiment with it a little bit, as every application's going to vary. But as long as you're building it before you actually need it, you should be able to work out the bugs. To lessen the "bugs," think horizontal and not vertical. Just my thoughts on it. Good luck.

-----
Joe Yakelis
HellFire Reptiles

SnakeSmith Mar 17, 2005 07:19 PM

Hey Joe,

Thanks for the info.! One concern I have (that no one seems to be able to advise me on) is the length of 11" Flexwatt to go with, if I was to use it. I realize there are some variables, but knowing the freezer is 5 cubic ft, extremely well insulated, controlled by a Helix, and possibly a small fan running 24/7, someone must be able to recommend "X" amount of feet to accomplish the job without over or underpowering the Flexwatt.

Thanks again,
Glenn

HFR Mar 17, 2005 08:21 PM

>>Hey Joe,
>>
>>Thanks for the info.! One concern I have (that no one seems to be able to advise me on) is the length of 11" Flexwatt to go with, if I was to use it. I realize there are some variables, but knowing the freezer is 5 cubic ft, extremely well insulated, controlled by a Helix, and possibly a small fan running 24/7, someone must be able to recommend "X" amount of feet to accomplish the job without over or underpowering the Flexwatt.
>>
>>Thanks again,
>>Glenn

Glenn,

I'd be more concerned with underpowering it than overpowering it. By all means, make sure however many feet of flex you use doesn't exceed your thermostat capabilities. But as long as you have a good thermostat and are drawing under it's wattage ratings, it's hands down better to have a little too much, than to not have enough.

I don't think anyone (except a physicist) is going to be able to give you the "perfect" amount to use. But this where I'd start...

For a 3' upright freezer, I'm imagining it has about a 28" width. I'd try one piece of 11" flexwatt down the center of the back. Start where the back meets the top and bring it all the way down. I'd let it form a soft curve about 1/3 of the freezer depth onto the floor of the incubator coming towards you. Try that with no fan and take it from there. You could also try the same thing, but instead of running one down the back, try running a piece on each side and nothing on the back.

I'm running one of my wooden (fully insulated and sealed) incubators of my own design the latter way. It's roughly 4'L x 32"D x 30"H. It holds any temp I want, within reason, from top to bottom and side to side - no fans involved. The only difference between it and what I mentioned above is that I have (2) pieces of 11" side by side, on right and left sides. Nothing on the back, nothing on the top, very little (but some) on the bottom. The prior way I mentioned (one down the back) is the same design I mentioned in my earlier reply that a friend uses successfully in an incubator roughly the same size as your freezer.

I mentioned it above and it's mentioned below as well - think horizontal (shorter/wider) and not vertical in the future. That's the main drawback of using anything upright. But a 3' height isn't that bad and I think you could get away without a fan if you experiment with the location of the tape a little bit. No matter how you set it up, chances are it's going to need tweaked at least slightly in one way or another to get it right. And once you get it right, build more of them.
-----
Joe Yakelis
HellFire Reptiles

SnakeSmith Mar 18, 2005 05:34 AM

Hey Joe,

Thanks again, I was certainly thinking that underpowering a length of tape is better than overpowering one. I will have to think about this a little more. Maybe I am better off using one of the melamine cages rather than the freezer. One thing that bothered me a bit about the freezer is that the interior width and depth are only about 16 or 17 inches (small shelves). I think I will simply experiment with it and see how it goes.

Thanks again for your help,
Glenn

SnakeSmith Mar 18, 2005 05:39 AM

To clarify under vs overpowering...
I would not want to make a foot of flex work it's but off to keep the incubator warm when a few feet may do it much better.

HFR Mar 18, 2005 06:36 AM

Posted by: SnakeSmith at Fri Mar 18 05:34:52 2005 [ Report Abuse ] [ Email Message ]

Hey Joe,

Thanks again, I was certainly thinking that underpowering a length of tape is better than overpowering one. I will have to think about this a little more. Maybe I am better off using one of the melamine cages rather than the freezer. One thing that bothered me a bit about the freezer is that the interior width and depth are only about 16 or 17 inches (small shelves). I think I will simply experiment with it and see how it goes.

Thanks again for your help,
Glenn
>>
To clarify under vs overpowering...
>>I would not want to make a foot of flex work it's but off to keep the incubator warm when a few feet may do it much better.

Thanks for clarifying Glenn. My fault for reading one thing and thinking another.

That's why I've always had a hard time using the smaller ones. There never seems to be enough room for more than 1-2 small egg boxes. Experiment away Glenn. That's the name of the game.

-----
Joe Yakelis
HellFire Reptiles

snakebstr Mar 17, 2005 09:51 PM

I have had very bad news....Maybe.... Here is MY deal.... I built a upright Freezer Incubator... I had a Helix DBS 1000 hooked up to a Pro heat panel, I had No problem when the incubator was empty....temp was 89 degrees all the time...with no problems ...I set the eggs boxes in the incubator several days before my first clutch was laid...I had the temp probe mounted above the heat panel about 1 1/2 ft to try and get a more steady temp. Well I put my eggs and the helix was reading 89 degrees and most of the other thermostats read close to the same so I didn't think I had anything to worry about. Well Not true.... I noticed the closest egg box to the heat panel that the eggs were denting a little and I had 91 - 100% humidity, so I knew that was not the problem....So I decided to temp gun the eggs themselves, and guess what the eggs ranged from 91 - 95 degrees but they are still good eggs and the have been at them temps I am assuming the full 27 days that they were in incubation. So far they are still showing blood veins and are still looking good..... So I have my fingers crossed that they will be ok.... Needless to say I added a FAN to the incubator and everything is very nice in the incubator I even have a probe in the eggs box with the eggs... still around 90, the box stays around 89 give or take a degree.....PUT a FAN in LARGE INCUBATORS. My humidity is still 91 - 100%.... Thanks David

-----
1.0 Pied(04)(RDR)
1.0 Albino(04)(RDR)
0.1 Spider(04)(RDR)
3.2 Pastels(03's)(04's)(ASF,Graziani,Bell lines)
0.1 Yellow belly(unproven)(04)
1.3 Yellow belly(unproven)(02,03,04's)
2.0 100% HET CLOWN(04's)(MHMR)
3.3 100% het albinos(03's)(high contrast bell line)
0.1 poss Het Albino(03's)
2.0 100% het pieds(03's)(Vin Russo,CRE)
0.2 100% het pieds(03's)(04's)(RDR,TWL)
1.2 Poss het pieds(03's)(PETE KAHL)
2.1 Poss het pieds(00's)(01's) hoping to get PIEDS this year(Vin Russo, Pete Kahl)
25 Normal adult females
60 04 females
15 normal mixed 03's
20 Assorted weird ball pythons 04's

HFR Mar 18, 2005 06:15 AM

>>I have had very bad news....Maybe.... Here is MY deal.... I built a upright Freezer Incubator... I had a Helix DBS 1000 hooked up to a Pro heat panel, I had No problem when the incubator was empty....temp was 89 degrees all the time...with no problems ...I set the eggs boxes in the incubator several days before my first clutch was laid...I had the temp probe mounted above the heat panel about 1 1/2 ft to try and get a more steady temp. Well I put my eggs and the helix was reading 89 degrees and most of the other thermostats read close to the same so I didn't think I had anything to worry about. Well Not true.... I noticed the closest egg box to the heat panel that the eggs were denting a little and I had 91 - 100% humidity, so I knew that was not the problem....So I decided to temp gun the eggs themselves, and guess what the eggs ranged from 91 - 95 degrees but they are still good eggs and the have been at them temps I am assuming the full 27 days that they were in incubation. So far they are still showing blood veins and are still looking good..... So I have my fingers crossed that they will be ok.... Needless to say I added a FAN to the incubator and everything is very nice in the incubator I even have a probe in the eggs box with the eggs... still around 90, the box stays around 89 give or take a degree.....PUT a FAN in LARGE INCUBATORS. My humidity is still 91 - 100%.... Thanks David
>>
>>-----
>>1.0 Pied(04)(RDR)
>>1.0 Albino(04)(RDR)
>>0.1 Spider(04)(RDR)
>>3.2 Pastels(03's)(04's)(ASF,Graziani,Bell lines)
>>0.1 Yellow belly(unproven)(04)
>>1.3 Yellow belly(unproven)(02,03,04's)
>>2.0 100% HET CLOWN(04's)(MHMR)
>>3.3 100% het albinos(03's)(high contrast bell line)
>>0.1 poss Het Albino(03's)
>>2.0 100% het pieds(03's)(Vin Russo,CRE)
>>0.2 100% het pieds(03's)(04's)(RDR,TWL)
>>1.2 Poss het pieds(03's)(PETE KAHL)
>>2.1 Poss het pieds(00's)(01's) hoping to get PIEDS this year(Vin Russo, Pete Kahl)
>>25 Normal adult females
>>60 04 females
>>15 normal mixed 03's
>>20 Assorted weird ball pythons 04's

David,

I imagine you would have a problem heating an upright efficiently with constant temps throughout when the heat source isn't at least somewhat distributed throughout the incubator, like your's. When it was empty, there was no resistance and no density for the heat to pass through. The more you add in your original set-up (first boxes, then eggs), the more resistance you create, especially at the first level where you experienced your problems. You're right, a set-up like your's would definitely require a fan when the heat is not distributed by any other means (location).

The point that myself and others have made is that just about anytime you use anything of that height, you're going to run into more problems than you think if you're not going to install a fan from the getgo (again, think short and wide not tall and narrow if you don't plan on installing a fan from the start). But if you heated your application differently, there'd be less need for a fan. I prefer not to use a fan, so I look for ways to get around them with different heat source set-ups.

Your eggs are probably fine. I've found extremely skewed results using guns and probes while checking incubator temps. If you take 2 different model guns, 3 different model probe thermometers, and your helix read-out... 4 of the 6 are more than likely going to be reading differently. And some could be by more than 3-4F. I always like to have my probes (thermostat and thermometer) IN with the eggs, and not reading anything else. Just my preference.

Here's a good tip for finding a well calibrated thermometer. Take an ice-cube out of the freezer and set it on the counter. Take readings on it as soon as it begins to melt and not prior. The thermometer you find to be closest to 32F at the melting point is the one you should be using and should give you the most accurate temp read-outs within your incubator. I've tested this with raytek's and other guns, as well as probe digitals and you'd be surprised how their readings have varied.

I'm glad to hear you've worked out your bugs with the addition of the fan, and it sounds like it should do well for you from here on out. But it sounds like most of your problem was the location of the heater from the get-go, if you weren't going to use a fan from the start. You were definitely on the right track setting it up and running it early. But things change as you add to it - as you unfortunately found out the hard way. Good luck with it.
-----
Joe Yakelis
HellFire Reptiles

bristen Mar 18, 2005 07:43 AM

the problem with this design is you have a very hot, condensed heat source (heat panel)... you should be staying away from heat panels for an incubator.. lower heat heating devices such as heat tape and distributing it more evenly would be MUCH better. I talked to Bob Pound of ProProdcuts about using radiant heat panels for my vertical incubator and they strongly recommend AGAINST using them in incubators. They will not work well. They will bake eggs that are close to the panel. They project a lot of heat and you will have problems with the eggs on the first shelf on the bottom. Also, they could break if water was to spill in the panel. They are not designed to be install on the bottom facing up, but rather on the top facing down. When used properly, water can not be spilled in the panel. There should not be a fire hazard, but it could ruin the panel. I've opted to use heat tape in mine instead of a radiant heat panel.

Good luck,
Bristen.

SnakeSmith Mar 18, 2005 11:40 AM

Hello everyone,

I too have a concern as to what heat source is best for a home-made incubator. It makes sense to use a heat source that cools quickly like heat tape, so you don't get an even warmer temp. a few minutes after the thermostat shuts off the heat source. As I contact various suppliers of heat sources, they all seem to "not" recommend the various types of heat source they sell. Whether it is Flexwatt tape, heating elements as seen in Hovabators, or light bulbs/ceramic bulbs. Does anyone know what is the safest heat source?

Thanks,
Glenn

gwhit Mar 20, 2005 06:08 AM

Heat tape works fine as do heating elements and any NON-Radiant heat source when connected to a proportional thermostat. Using a proportional thermostat is the only way to go. Current trickles to the heat tape as as opposed to full on or full off with a analog thermostat. The proportional thermostat reduces the spikes in temps. As a final note I would strongly recommend including a fan run off a separate circut no matter what source of heat you use. Any fan will work, but a couple of the fans like those used in computers work well. Mount one toward the top and a second toward the bottom. Do NOT run the fan off the same circut as the heat souce with a proportional thermostat. The trickle current from the proportional thermostat can burn out the fan and is a fire hazard. Also the trickle current most often will not turn the fan fast enough to sufficiently circulate the air.

gwhit Mar 19, 2005 08:45 AM

For anyone planning to use a fan in their incubator. It is NOT advisable to use a proportional thermostat for the fan. This can burn out the fan and is a fire hazard.
You can put the fan and the heating element on the same circut and run them off an analog thermostat, but the downside with this is that if the incubator is large the fan will only run when the heating element is on and there can be temperature gradients from top to bottom during periods the fan is off.

It is a much better option to run the heating element off of a proportional thermostat, and then run a variable speed fan off a separate circut. This way the fan can run all of the time at the lowest speed that insures adequate circulation and even temperatures throughout the incubator and the proportional thermostat will adjust the current to the heating element to maintain the proper temperature. I use two large incubators this way and I can easily maintain constant temps with a maximum variation of less than half a degree. This set up allows MUCH tighter temperature control than with an analog thermostat which is either completely on or completely off. Variations of 2-3 degrees tend to be the norm for this type of set up.

reiding@nettally Mar 17, 2005 01:10 PM

If you're a fan of "unbreakable low tech" here's an idea for your incubator; use closed containers (could be anything really),filled with water to stabilize temperatures in your incubator instead of using circulation fans. Water warms up and cools down much slower than air and so it keeps the tempearatures in your incubator more stable throughout. Has worked great for me, and lasts a long time.

Rob Reiding.

SnakeSmith Mar 17, 2005 07:29 PM

Hey Rob,

I agree that the use of any sort of solid or liquid will allow less temp. fluctuation than air itself, but regardless of what is in the incubator, the top section of the incubator will always be warmer. The only way around this is to physically force the warmer air down, mixing it with the cooler air, thereby eliminating any thermal gradients.

Thanks,
Glenn

reiding@nettally Mar 17, 2005 07:38 PM

Hi Glenn;

I totally agree with you and to compensate for that I have been using relatively low and wide ("home made" incubators versus tall incubators.
This is something that has worked well for me and I just thought it would be nice to share that with others.

Rob Reiding.

SnakeSmith Mar 17, 2005 08:13 PM

Hey Rob,

I'm really thinking wider is better! I have some nice 4x2x2 melamine cages i'm not using and was going to insulate one of them with rigid foam and convert it to an incubator. The only reason I am thinking about using the freezer is, it died on me just after a year old (the warrantee period)and I thought it would make a great looking incubator, being brand new looking with plastic coated wire racks already built in. Don't know what to do, but I have all summer and fall to get it done.

Thanks for your replies,
Glenn

reiding@nettally Mar 17, 2005 09:13 PM

Low incubators have worked well for me, but if you already have the freezer, like in your case, why throw it away. Don't you hate that when things break right when the warranty runs out! Maybe heat tape or heat cable all around the bottom, sides, and top together with two smaller fans instead of one larger one would work well? In case one of the fans breakes down there will still be the other one. That would probably give pretty even temperatures from top to bottom.

Rob Reiding.

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