Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello my name is Gidi and I have 1,1 R. Boulengeri. They are C/B from 2004. They are doing fine but they don't eat themself, even not fish they eat nothing by them self I have tried everything. From many people I heard that they starting to eat themself ather the hibernation. But the R. Boulengeri of us ather the hibernation don't eat.

I forcefeed them twice a week and they are groing but I think that that is not normal. The weird thing is that one of the two have about 2 months eat by himself but now he don't take anything.
Plzz help me!!!

Greeting Gidi
Link

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Greetings from Gidi & Wim (www.elaphedione.com), Amsterdam.

A friend of mine was raising several hatchlings and having the same issue.

One day he was tease feeding one and it sort of jumped out of it's cage to get away. My friend caught it in his hand and the snake went into a defensive mode while he was holding it.

He sort of cupped it under his hand and continued to tease feed it. Much to his surprise the snake grabbed the pinky. My friend stood still until the pinky was well down its mouth and gently sat the snake back in its cage.

He tried that with the other non-feeding specimens and it worked. He continued to do it until they ate on their own. I don't know how many specimens he did this with or for how many feedings.

He tried to have me do it and I failed every time. It may have just been his technique, I don't know.

I'm supposed to hear from him tonight, I'll see if I can get more information.
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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

I have a pair of Rhynos that went through the same Non feeding period.
While i was on holiday a friedn fed my snakes for me, and he left a defrost pinkie draped across a branch in its cage, and that
seems to be what triggered it to feed.
After that i always placed the pinkie on a branch, and thet always fed, they now eat anything at anytime, and should breed for me this year.
The hatchlings are very difficult to get feeding, has anyone found otherwise?

While i was on holiday a friend fed my snakes for me, and he left a defrost pinkie draped across a branch in its cage, and that seems to be what triggered it to feed.

Interestingly enough, that's what a breeder I respect learned to do with Gonyosoma oxycephala hatchlings. It does not surprise me the same would work for Rhyncophis.

The hatchlings are very difficult to get feeding, has anyone found otherwise?

Unfortunately, no. They're very tough. At least they're easier to force feed that other difficult hatclings. Or so I've heard.

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Current snakes:

0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)

3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)

2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)

I'm not interested in keeping them, but I am interested in their ecology and behavior, etc. I think boulengeri is an arboreal, or semi-arboreal, temperate colubrid. They seem to concentrate near mtn. streams in the wild. I think, much like a rough green snake of the U.S., they hang around in the brush alongside streams, and take prey that moves, such as minnows in the stream, and vertebrates in the vegetation. Just my 2 cents. Good luck....

PS: Why not try lizards and/or snakes, also?

TC

I would thank you all and will try the best I can. I will post you about the results...

Good luck in the breading season!!!

Greetings Gidi
Link

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Greetings from Gidi & Wim (www.elaphedione.com), Amsterdam.

Terry, R. b. dont ophiophagous snake, the general food is small mammals, but it can also eat fishes, frogs and, sometimes, lizards, but not snakes.
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Ivan Arinin
Tula Exotarium
ICQ 151665951
Site: www.edione.narod.ru
E.g. guttata Normal 2.3
E.g. guttata Albino 2.4
E.g. guttata Oketee 2.0
E.g. guttata Hypo Oketee 1.1
E.g. guttata Albino Okeetee 2.2
E.g. guttata Ghost 2.3
E.g. guttata Motley 2.2
E.g. guttata Albino Motley 2.2
E.g. guttata Anerythristic 2.2
E.g. guttata Snow 2.4
E.g. guttata Creamsicle 2.1
E.g. rosacea 2.2
E.g. emoryi 2.2

E. persica black 3.4
E. persica brown 2.1
E. longissima 4.6
E. situla 3.3
E. dione 54
E. bimaculata 4.3
E. quatourlineata 10.15

E. o. obsoleta yellow 2.2
E. o. lindheimeri White Sided 2.2.
E. o. lindheomeri Leucistic 1.2
E. o. lindheimeri Black Orange 2.2
E. o. quatourlineata 1.3
E. o. quatourlineata Deckerti 2.2
E. o. quatourlineata Williamsi 1.0
E. o. rossalleni 2.2

Langaha madagascariensis 2.1.12
Cylindrophis ruffus 0.1
Enhydris plumbea 1.0

Hello Gidi, (and Wim)

My friend bought from the same cluch as your snakes are from. He has the same problems. He forcefeed them as long as you have them. First with micetails and later with the smallest baby mice. I guess it is the best way to do. They are to expensive not to forcefeed....

Now he tease them with the mice untill they bite in the mouse. When they bite in the mouse, you have to be standing very still. After holding a few minutes they begin to eat. You stil must standing very still. After the mouse is eaten my friend puts them back into the terrarium. If they let go the mouse the first time he keep on trying for several times just as long they begin to eat. So when you are going to do it this way you must be free for the evening LOL.
Picture is one of his snakes I took.
Succes Jan P, Netherlands.

about 80 percent of our Rhino babies feed on pinkies right away, while the other 20 are more of a hassle. we start with live pinkies, and we start in small shoebox cages with tight hidespots, a moist moss hide, and a water bowl. paper towel substrate for fresh hatchlings, nothing fancy.

we may end of forcing the stubborn animals with thawed pinks, but only after trying other choices- live, fresh killed, thawed, brained, night, day, teasing, etc.
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles