as accidents can happen, even when the owner is standing right there and watching the snake kill and eat the mouse/rat. We all know the risks one is taking when feeding live prey.
I personally do not feed live prey because I learned my lesson the hard way. I used to think the same way alot of people do who feed live prey. "It happens in the wild" mentality is what I used to think. The first snake I ever had was a large black rat snake and I used to feed it live prey. I didnt know any better, and one day when I threw the mouse in with the snake, the snake grabbed the mouse by the hind quarters. As he was looping his coils around it, the mouse bit him several times before the snake could put the big squeeze on. One was a very deep puncture wound that bled pretty badly. After about a month of fighting infection, the wound finally healed up, and he had a bad scar. After that I fed him pre-killed, which he took readily and I didnt have to worry about the snake getting bitten again. The snake was just lucky the bite didnt injure any internal organs, or worse yet to the head!!
Sure people can argue all they want that snakes have to kill in the wild. This is true, but once you put them in your collection and they are no longer in the wild, then YOU are responsible for their health and general well being. How many adult snakes have you guys caught out in the wild that were in "pristine" condition?? A very low percentage Im sure. There is a reason for this. The animals that snakes predate on have a pretty decent arsenal for protection. I wouldnt try to pick up a small squirrel, a mouse, or a rat out in the field!!! They can deliver a NASTY bite!! I would rather take a hit from a large bull snake!!
Sure there are those picky snakes in peoples collections that will not feed on F/T prey, and therefore have to be fed live. I have no problems with this, but I feel that the snake should be switched over to F/T as quick as possible.
The pros FAR outweigh the cons on F/T vs live prey, and I still dont understand why people continue to feed live when they dont have to.
Now as far as the snake in the above post, that was just plain neglect on the owners part. Maybe he/she has a snake that will not eat F/T. Again, no big deal, but the owner should have stayed there until the prey was eaten or felt that the snake was not interested in eating and the the food item removed from the cage. Not left in there for 24 hours. Hopefully the snake will heal up without any complications and the owner has learned a valuable lesson!
Before we turn the flame thrower on someone, we need to make sure it wasnt done out of just ignorance. Maybe this person had gotten crappy husbandry info from the pet store where the snake was bought!! How many times have we all been in a pet store and heard an employee telling a clueless customer some very very bad info!!!! Probably too many to count.
Not flaming anyone, just giving my $.02 worth is all.
Herping season is almost upon us!!!!
Brian
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RATS
1.0 Corn snake "Warpath" (KY locale)
1.0 Black rat snake "Havok" (KY locale)
1.1 Black rat snakes "Reaper and Mystique" (MO locale)
1.0 Albino Black rat snake "Malakai" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Everglades rat snake "Deadpool" (Dwight Good stock)
0.1 Greenish rat snake "Rogue" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Yellow rat snake "Wolverine" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Grey rat snake "Punisher" (White oak phase)(Dwight Good stock)
RACERS
1.0 Eastern Yellow Belly racer "Nightcrawler" (MO locale)
KINGS
1.1 California king snake "Bandit and Moonstar" (Coastal phase)
1.0 Prairie king snake "Bishop" (KY locale)
0.1 Black king snake "Domino" (KY locale)
1.0 Desert Kingsnake "Gambit"
0.1 Florida Kingsnake
MILKS
0.0.1 Eastern Milk snake "Cable" (KY locale)
0.0.1 Eastern/Red milk intergrade "Omega Red" (KY locale)
Good luck and Happy Herping
Brian