Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have been doing a lot of reading and starting to rethink my setup a lot now. I'd really like to see how others have their snake cages.

Also I am hating this UTH from ZooMed. Now that it isn't below 30 degrees outside, I am finding these UTH to be all over the place at any given time. Also we have a Leo that was burned from a UTH for a 20 gallon tank that if left alone reaches peaks at 93.4 degrees over the pad with a paper towel substrate (4 layers of toweling) What are some better options? We have overhead heat lamps but doubt we'll be using them again until the winter time. I am taking all my temps from substrate and my snakes cage at the hottest spot is running about 87 degrees. I had it lower but after reading The Cornsnake Manual and seeing 88 degrees reccommended in there I rose the temps. I am really tired of running up and moving the dimmer switch several times a day depepnding on what the weather is. Is it normal for these ZooMed UTHs to have unpredictable results like this?

One last question, for those who are using UV lights...what side of that tanks are you putting them on?

My initial reason for researching cages is that my snake hides constantly except for those 3-4 days he lived on a branch in the tank before shedding. I am trying to find a setup that will encourage him t be out and about more.

>>Also I am hating this UTH from ZooMed. Now that it isn't below 30 degrees outside, I am finding these UTH to be all over the place at any given time. Also we have a Leo that was burned from a UTH for a 20 gallon tank that if left alone reaches peaks at 93.4 degrees over the pad with a paper towel substrate (4 layers of toweling) What are some better options? We have overhead heat lamps but doubt we'll be using them again until the winter time. I am taking all my temps from substrate and my snakes cage at the hottest spot is running about 87 degrees. I had it lower but after reading The Cornsnake Manual and seeing 88 degrees reccommended in there I rose the temps. I am really tired of running up and moving the dimmer switch several times a day depepnding on what the weather is. Is it normal for these ZooMed UTHs to have unpredictable results like this?
>>
>>One last question, for those who are using UV lights...what side of that tanks are you putting them on?
>>
>>My initial reason for researching cages is that my snake hides constantly except for those 3-4 days he lived on a branch in the tank before shedding. I am trying to find a setup that will encourage him t be out and about more.

My own experience is that Zoo Med UTH are the least reliable. I would recommend a visit to the Bean Farm and order some flexwatt tape. You have to construct it, wire it and all, but it is easy and way nicer for the money.
Depending on the age of your snake it is gonna hide all the time. My snakes are really only confident and out a lot when they are 3 or 4 yrs old and have been with me all that time.
My everglades rat is 4 or 5yo and in a 90qt sterlite tub, over flexwatt tape on one end and with a water bowl/hide in the middle. He never hides anymore and usually is out and watching me most of the time. As a young thing I never saw him. It really is what snakes do.
I don't use UV for snakes. For that matter I don't for any of my herps and haven't had any troubles. I think heat and correct diet are way more important. Most snakes aren't UV users anyway since they are nocturnal.
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Sonya

Haven't we warned you about tampering with the structure of a chaotic system?
Mrs. Neutron

I like to have good viewing set ups as well. Happily, my Glades have been good subjects. For my subadults and adults, I use a Vision 332 with a large tangle of grapevine on one end. I use overhead heating.

My snake is young and about 28 inches long. I covered the tank all but the front yesterday because I noticed he will start to come out but if he sees someone in the doorway, he'll slide back in. Using a black garabe bag cut to fit the glass atm and if it works, I'll go get some black fishtank background.

Of course if I had to endure 7 shots 3 days apart, I would hide too. Thank goodness we're done with that now.

I have some pics of my favorite glades setup on my site in the picture section. The cage is a 4X2X2 stood on end. With this setup I always had on or both glades out on display. I was in Florida at the time and I used room temps(78 night-84 Day) as the heat. Unfortuneatly this cage got destroyed when my ceiling fell on it during the hurricanes but the design is simple and I hope to rebuild one in the future. If I have the space I think I will move up to a 5X3X 30inches. The 30 inches is important so you can get through doors. The pics where taken on several days but the snakes where in simular positions. The important thing is to get a branch thick enough for the snake to lie on. One 3-4 inches on the top is ideal. Also the Glades pictured had better body structure than any other snake I had. They where stronger. Now that they are in a horizontal cage they are a little fatty but not bad. Hope this helps.
Thanks Jason
www.SnakesUnlimited.com

I was on your site and loved he pics. I noticed you keep kings,milks,rats,corns.
Which of all these types do you find the most visible,doesnt hide as much?
Thanks.

When setup in the right conditions the glades are the most visable by far.
Thanks Jason

Thanks . I am looking into some type of display snake and wanted something that unlike my Ca kings dont hide so much.
Great snakes I love them but didnt want another CA king for this type of enclosure .Wanted something that would make the most out of a large enclosure with branches.
After your answer its between a glades and a texas ratsnake .
thanks.
Fleck

Sorry I can't help you because I have never owned a Texas Rat. I am obviously partial to the glades if you saw my site. No matter which snake you get make sure you get a thick branch. A common mistake is in using to thin of a branch. I have found that even the upside down root system doesn't make for a good rest spot for most snakes. It is actually a very specific branch that is needed for your snakes to use it often. If you can get a branch that is from a split in the trunk of a tree then you might have a winner. Basically try to get something that is 3-5 inches wide and somewhat flat or even concave. I hope this helps. And of course it is only my opion.
Later Jason

Yes this is great info and it does help. I am also going to use a few wooden shelves along the walls of the enclosure and as you suggest thick branches connecting them and in the middle.
I picked up the wood last night for the enclosure.I am going for 7 feet of height with front clear plastic or glass and screen top for light,heat.
Its a simple giant square design. I picked those two snakes because love the look of both.
I am toying with the idea of 1 male glades 1 female Tx. Have you ever housed two rats together ?

Here is a picture of my setup atm. I just moved some things around. Your snakes were very nice! Glad to hear they made it through the storms. One day I would like to get another to breed my snake with. I also would LOVE an Okeetee too.

That is a killer setup. The one thing I would suggest is to try to find a thicker branch and you might get more of your snake. Also put a bit of cover right above the top of the branch outside the cage(ie a piece of cardboard) so the snakes feel they have cover overhead. They should bask more with those two things. Otherwise super nice. Actually super nice anyway but you might get them out more with those two changes. I don't see enough cages setup that nice. Way better than a rack setup. I try to set things up simular and I find that there is not much more work all things considered. The little bit extra far outweighs the good for the snake.
Thanks Jason

I'm sure she'll be real happy there. A little time and some regular attention goes a long way.

that is heated by flex-watt heat tape. But even that will not keep the temps at a constant if your snake rooms temps fluctuate. The only way to compensate for that is to hook up a thermostat to the UTH. These can get expensive. So I would look at trying to keep your snake room at a constant temp so the UTH will work as it should.

Snakes do not need UV lights. Snakes dont use UV like lizards/turtles do. Snakes get their calcium from the bones of their prey items and a UV light does not do anything for a snake. So you can take them out of the cages. As long as they have access to a 12 hour photo period, they will do fine.

Most snakes are secretive creatures and will be hiding most of the time. The only snake that I have that is out almost all the time is my racer. The rest of my snakes all usually are in their hides unless it is close to feeding time, then they are out waiting for their hand out!! LOL

If you custom build a large arboreal enclosure for your glades, you might be disapointed. Your snake may still hide quite a bit. You would need to supply a warm spot on the floor with a hide so your snake can digest in peace. And you would have to have a hide on the cool end as well. If you put a small heat lamp on top with some branches to climb on, your snake may or may not be out and about. Most likely at feeding time is when it would be out "hunting".

Good luck
Brian

>>I have been doing a lot of reading and starting to rethink my setup a lot now. I'd really like to see how others have their snake cages.
>>
>>Also I am hating this UTH from ZooMed. Now that it isn't below 30 degrees outside, I am finding these UTH to be all over the place at any given time. Also we have a Leo that was burned from a UTH for a 20 gallon tank that if left alone reaches peaks at 93.4 degrees over the pad with a paper towel substrate (4 layers of toweling) What are some better options? We have overhead heat lamps but doubt we'll be using them again until the winter time. I am taking all my temps from substrate and my snakes cage at the hottest spot is running about 87 degrees. I had it lower but after reading The Cornsnake Manual and seeing 88 degrees reccommended in there I rose the temps. I am really tired of running up and moving the dimmer switch several times a day depepnding on what the weather is. Is it normal for these ZooMed UTHs to have unpredictable results like this?
>>
>>One last question, for those who are using UV lights...what side of that tanks are you putting them on?
>>
>>My initial reason for researching cages is that my snake hides constantly except for those 3-4 days he lived on a branch in the tank before shedding. I am trying to find a setup that will encourage him t be out and about more.
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RATS
1.0 Corn snake "Warpath" (KY locale)
1.0 Black rat snake "Havok" (KY locale)
1.1 Black rat snakes "Reaper and Mystique" (MO locale)
1.0 Albino Black rat snake "Malakai" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Everglades rat snake "Deadpool" (Dwight Good stock)
0.1 Greenish rat snake "Rogue" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Yellow rat snake "Wolverine" (Dwight Good stock)
1.0 Grey rat snake "Punisher" (White oak phase)(Dwight Good stock)

MILKS
0.0.1 Eastern Milk snake "Cable" (KY locale)
0.0.1 Eastern/Red milk intergrade "Omega Red" (KY locale)
Good luck and Happy Herping
Brian

I found zoo med to be the worst UTH pad I ever used. I couldnt think of any worse. It went from not working to so HOT it could fry an egg.
Both of mine are now were they belonmg in the TRASH. I replaced them with cobra heat pads which I love. One year later both great.
Zoo med makes good stuff but their UTH are horrible. I am not the only one that threw his/her away.

That is exactly what the UTH is doing on my son's Gecko cage! One day it will hit 93 degrees in there with no other heating and I have to constantly adjust the dimmer and like now, the thing won't hit 85 with an extrenal light on. I am going out and replacing it asap. What a POS!

Are UTHs better for snakes than other heating? I have been reading about panels but I can't see how you would use on with a Critter Cage and the screened top. I admit to being pretty obsessive over things being the way I want them and this temp issue is making me crazy!

I dont think there is really any one way which is better than others. Lots have different ways of doing things.
I use just cobra heat pads and happy with them for my snakes. They work great low wattage and go under the tank so out of sight.
I use overhead heat for my skinks. I use basking incandescent bulb 75 watt for day and ceramic heat emitter 60 watt at night.
ceramic heat emitters give off incredible heat watt per watt way more than incandescent but no light at all.
They are good for snakes,geckos,etc also. If you want heat for air than a ceramic heat emitter is your best bet. You need a screen cover tho.
I am not sure what kritter keeper is.
www.herpsupplies.com has ceramic heat emitters in low watts like 30 watt to 200 watts.
I dont know what type gecko you have but if its a climbing type arboreal gecko than a ceramic heat emitter is much better.
Under tank pads are great for belly heat for things like snakes and some ground dwelling lizards.
Whatever you use its better than zoo med UTH . Their other stuff I do like like lights,temp controller,etc.
I like you dont want to constantly tamper,worry about a silly heat pad . My zoo meds were both aweful.