Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Welcome to kingsnake.com's message board system. Here you may share and discuss information with others about your favorite reptile and amphibian related topics such as care and feeding, caging requirements, permits and licenses, and more. Launched in 1997, the kingsnake.com message board system is one of the oldest and largest systems on the internet.

Click for 65% off Shipping with Reptiles 2 You
Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research
Click for 65% off Shipping with Reptiles 2 You

Need advice on incubating veileds!!!

taz2wild Apr 03, 2005 11:33 AM

Hi- I have a gravid female veiled. I have purchased my perlite and other supplies but I need some advice from people with know how. What ratio of water to perlite should I use? How often do I need to re-moisten the perlite? Should I leave the lids on the incubation cups? Do they need ventilation holes? I tried incubating the eggs from my leopard geckos and they got all moldy in about three weeks and kept shriveling in. I want to do it right next time. PLease help!!!!

Replies (2)

Anthonyd Apr 03, 2005 04:43 PM

I use moist vermiculite to incubate all of my eggs. The moisture of the medium should be moist, not wet. When picked up, the vermiculite should not drip, water should only come out when squeezed (pick up several peaces and pinch them between your index finger and thumb, and if a drop of water comes out, your good), that is when you know when you have it right. As for adding moisture, don't do it, unless the eggs are obviously denting in from dehydration (as eggs dent before they hatch also). And if you do need to add water, be VERY careful as to not get the eggs wet, as this can cause them to mold. All of my egg boxes have ventilation holes, almost all cham eggs need good ventilation, with the exception being some montane species, such as montiums and quadricornis, where their egg containers should be sealed, only to keep in moisture and humidity, even then, the boxes should be opened every two weeks or so. But either way, yes, ventilation holes are needed, and the lid should be on. If eggs start to mold either they are infetile, or you are keeping things to wet. It was always easier to keep it drier and add moisture, than keep it to wet, and have to change egg boxes. Dry, dented eggs can easily be rehydrated, but once an egg starts to mold from being to wet, its alot harder to bring back. but hopefully you should not have to worry about either, as most of the time, the eggs do great. But the method I talked about above should work fine, that is how I have always done it, and I have a clutch hatching as we speak. You can go fr two appraoches on incubation, hot and fast,or cool and slow. You can incubate eggs at up to 82 degrees, and they will watch at about 6 months, but the babies will be smaller. If incubated at about 76 degrees (Which is what I do), the eggs take about 9 months to hatch, but the babies are significantly larger (And sronger in my opinion. I have tried both, and have produced stronger hatchlings with lower temperatures). I don't know how true this holds to all keepers, atleast in my experience this is true. Good luck.

Anthony

zenexotics Apr 04, 2005 07:34 AM

Same can be done with perlite. I have used both and they both work well. Ventilate the incubation container, you should only have to moisten the medium once at the beginning and when using vermiculite do what Anthony said already, when using perlite moisten the medium just enough so that it will soak up the water and that when you put your finger in the medium, the perlite will cling to it. Go on the dryer side instead of being too wet if you're unsure. Remember to remove molding eggs and only add water if you see the eggs collasping on itself. Otherwise don't add any. I incubated mine at 78 degrees with slightly lower temperatures during the night (approximately 5 to 8 degrees lower) and they started hatching out at 8 months. Hope this helps and good luck!
-----
Experience and appreciate nature's creation.

www.zenexotics.com

Site Tools