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Well as posted pics of my Cage below I am having trouble with this set up, Keeping high humidity with the new Fimbriatus my goest wood is starting to mold, Also my hanging baskets that are made out of wood is molding, I might just have to move the trio into a different set up , has anyone else having this problem with wood ?
Also with the coco fiber panels the crickets are crawling up this and to the top of the cage, Micheal who I bought them from said that they probably would not eat out of a dish and so far I do not think my trio is eating, the female that I posted about with the curled tail is a little better, maybe not as bad as I made it seem, her eyes are not sunk in, but her tail is curled on the edges now,(but this is my first U P so I am not experinced in knowing a sick one from not except for the other 2 look better then her.)
I am thinking of moving them into a all plastic cage that I can run a misting system more and let the crickets free roam on the floor so they cannot climb. but now what to do with this elaborate cage I have. any ideas ?

The crickets crawling to the top of the cage should not be a problem in fact it could even be beneficial. My leaf tails prefer to get crikets on the top and sides of the cage insted of having to hunt them on the ground. As for the mold problem all I can say is either your cage is too airtight or you are spraying to much. You should have to spray more than once a day. Its ok to let the cage dry out during the day. It does not have to be constantly wet.
-Matt

I mean't to say that you should not have to spray more than once a day.
-Matt

as matt said, your ventilation is probably the issue. i used to have this problem when i would spray 1/2 a gallon of water into my cages to induce drinking in the geckos. now every day or every other day i shower them for an hour or so. if you can, lay a small fan on the top of the cage, or when you're showering your geckos you could vent it out with a fan. it only takes about a 1/2 hour to an hour to dry out the surfaces. another thing that majorly helps with mold is uv lighting, or any kind of lighting for that matter. when're you're spraying the cage the surfaces just need to be damp, not sopping. the only places you should need excess water would be right around the actual plants if you're using live ones and then you should just spray them right around their root zone.

First off, mold is the normal process of a vivarium. you should
not have used coco fiber boards as they will collapse and you also might want to, in a plastic baggie, pinch the hind leggs off at the knee to slow them down for feeding time.

with that said, always set up your vivarium at least 30 days before placing herps in. the bio load and settling of the vivarium can stress delicate herps like UPs and such.

the mold is the process of the simple sugars on the surface of the wood being eating. it's not long term but it also depends on the type of wood. ghost and grape are the worst. use washed cypress, redwood or oak. you should also use tree fern panels for the back walls and such. the toe pads are sensative to fibers. do some research on vivariums before you build, and then after it's well and settled, then get your herps. kind of like having a baby them finding a job...LOL> sorry, just kidding...but if there is anything i can help with let me know.
My site

What do you mean by the coco panels colapsing ?
This is a soft panel from Black jungle not a hard board.

it is just not strong. i use tree fern panels as then are super strong, and allow for water and air to contact the roots, leaf cuttings, and moss and fern spores for better growth. coco fiber won't. it's just isn't good.

Email me directly for a quicker response...thnx

Deven@Terra5Designs.com

while we re on the topic of practical cage set ups. i was just curious to ask if everyone uses water bowls for their uros.

I think the cage is getting plenty of air, I have 1/4 glass slidding doors and there is a 1/8 gap between the doors, plus I have 4 vent holes that are 2x12 each but are coverd by the coco fider panels, The mold stared probably when i first got the cage going, the misting system went off for 1 hour before I realized I had programmed it wrong.
I do have the misting system set for 3 times a day for 1 min. each. I will cut that down and see what happens.

If you vent holes are covered there is no ventilation. Clear whatever it is you have covering the vents so that it will actually circulate air. That is also the reason there will be more mold growth. Use a good UV light and you will inhibit that type of growth. Also, unless you have a positive to negative air flow with that small 1/8 inch gap, there again is no ventilation. I have that much of a gap between my bedroom door and the floor yet I still get stagnant air when I close it unless I keep a window open... get my drift here...

Jason

Thanks for the help, I opened up 2 of the vents for starters.

I noticed that having a few holes drilled into the bottom of the cage helps with drainage. I wouldn't have figured that out unless someone hadn't slapped me in the face with that piece of information. Give that a shot too this way water and flow right out of the tank.

Jason

I do have a drain in it, thanks.

I keep my mouth shut now...

Jason