I recently took in a 6 foot boa. She is in pretty bad shape but should pull through. We will find out by mid next week. Right now I have her in a 100 liter plastic enclosure so I can closly maintain her temps and humidity. I was going to see if I could find her a nice home but have grown attached to her. She is very sweet.
So, I have built two cages for my other snakes and am planning a new one. THis is by far the largest snake I have kept. Does anyone have pics or plans for a large enclosure.
I am thinking 6'X 2' X 3'. I am not sure what will be the best door configuration for such a large snake. I am thinking front sliding. She is quite heavy getting in and out.
Other than that I am a cabinet maker by trade and am familiar with the proper materials to use for reptiles.
THank you for your suggestions
Travis
Reptile & Amphibian Forums
Welcome to kingsnake.com's message board system. Here you may share and discuss information with others about your favorite reptile and amphibian related topics such as care and feeding, caging requirements, permits and licenses, and more. Launched in 1997, the kingsnake.com message board system is one of the oldest and largest systems on the internet.
Building large cage for 6 foot boa
Replies (17)
If you make it that tall you will have issues maintaining proper temps and humidity. The absolute largest I would suggest making a boa enclosure is 6x2x2 but preferably 4x2x2 or 4x2x1.
Sliding doors work well for boas, as do the hinged swing down style.
-----
Randall L Turner Jr.
I agree, i'd probably go 4x2x2. This will also make your plywood go a lot further (less waste cuts, however i'm sure you realize this.) I'd go with a radient heating panel, and sliding 1/4" glass doors. When you are working with a large snake like that, getting out of swinging doors is just a pain in the butt. Also there's a lot more work to making the frame, setting it, and mortising out a groove for the hinges. Then geting them to swing right, staining the frame (if you choose to do that), etc. I'd go with the sliding. All 4 cages shown here are 4x2x2 and the top right is made special for a high humidity snake. I think the sliding doors also look better.
-----
-Chris
0.1 Licorice Stick Black Rat
1.0 Black Rat
0.1 Vietnamese Blue Beauty
1.0 Green Tree Python
0.1 Texas Bairds Rat
The educated are the few. The uneducated are the masses.
wow thanks for the good replies. Nice pictures. I think
4 X 2 X 2 would be fine. For hinged doors I would use european style hinges, they adjust 3 dimensions. But you are right, sliding doors are micer looking.
Travis
>>For hinged doors I would use european style hinges, they adjust 3 dimensions.
I think most people who use hinged doors for Boas and other heavy bodied snakes prefer those that drop down. Less door to get in your way or for the snake to hook a tail on. I can see why they want them to drop completely out of the way.
In that case I'm not sure European hinges would be the way to go. I would not want them on the bottom of a snake cage. Too much area for feces and urates to build up in. Maybe there is a better hinge you have in mind or you want side-opening doors.
If I were to use European hinges I would only have doors that opened to the side.
On the rare occasion that I make a hinged door I use acrylic hinges that screw to the face frame and weld to the acrylic door. That makes for a clean look and keeps the mechanism on the outside of the cage.
>>But you are right, sliding doors are micer looking.
I much prefer sliding doors but can see how they would be a pain for boa constrictors, etc. A friend of mine keeps Dumeril Boas and getting them out of their cage is a pain. They grab everything. Not sure that I'd want sliding doors with them.
But I do agree they are nicer looking. Dogbert's picture shows that very well.
BTW, I don't have any cage plans nor do I have any advice on cage size. Build what your comfortable with.
Look forward to seeing what somebody in your profession can put together.
What will you seal it with?
-----
Current snakes:
0.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
3.3 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
3.3 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)
Chris,
Do you get those acrylic hinges from a local DIY store or do you get them online? Im just curious how easily accessable they are.
-----
Tom
TCJ Herps
"The more people I meet, the more I like my snakes"
Tom,
I ordered the hinges from US Plastic and paid quite a bit for them. I suspect if you shopped around you could find them cheaper.
If you do go with US Plastic make sure to order several and/or other items you may need. That dilutes the painful shipping costs a bit, which I believe is where most of my cost went.
I would look at places like Outwater Plastics and local suppliers before ordering from US Plastic.
Also, if your cage design is such that you can solvent-weld both halves of the hinge to acrylic there are much cheaper and more attractive solutions. In my case I wanted a real wood face frame so I did not have much choice.
-----
Current snakes:
0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
1.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
7.6 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
0.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)
The European hinges would be attached to the upper inside of the substrate dam, not the actual bottom of the cage.
That should work fine. My only concern would be tails getting pinched.
-----
Current snakes:
0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
1.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
7.6 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
0.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)
One thing to keep in mind is that "Most european hinges have a "fast release clip on them some however also have a screw to release them the higher ends have quick release though such as (blum , etc) that would be a concern on a downward hinging door that a snake pushing and boas and boids will push to find a weakness to exploit trust me lol . they could accidently release the hinge .. how likely is it not sure just something to consideri know some hinges actually take little pressure to pop the release. good luck on the cage
-----
www.cheapcages.com
____
edited sig file 2/8/05
Sorry for the threadjack.
I was at Lowes tonight and decided to price pocket hole joiners. Kreg had three models, one for $20, one for $55 and another for $129.
It was not clear to me what the most expensive model offered. Best I could tell it was how quickly you could make a joint. It did not seem to offer a greater variety of joints or a stronger joint.
Can you clear this up for me?
-----
Current snakes:
0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
1.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
7.6 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
0.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)
The pocket screw jigs are worth every penny. I use the small one that you just clamp to whatever you are working on...i use it all the time...The bit is kinda spendy..i think i paid 20 bucks just for the drill bit but in the long run its totally worth it.
I believe the $55 kit came with the bit so that sounds like it's worth the extra money alone. Now if I can just figure out what's so special about the $129 one...
>>The pocket screw jigs are worth every penny. I use the small one that you just clamp to whatever you are working on...i use it all the time...The bit is kinda spendy..i think i paid 20 bucks just for the drill bit but in the long run its totally worth it.
-----
Current snakes:
0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
1.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
7.6 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
0.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)
Are you talking about a biscuit joiner (Doesnt quite sound like it)? or those neat angled drill bits that my kitchen cabinet face frames were put together with?
-----
Tom
TCJ Herps
"The more people I meet, the more I like my snakes"
Tom,
I already have a bisquit joiner. But I need to make some face frames for my next project and a pocket hole joiner will be better suited.
It's the Rocket and K2000 that I'm deciding between. Unfortunately parts of their website are not working for me. I may have to try to open those pages in IE.
http://www.kregtool.com/
-----
Current snakes:
0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
1.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
7.6 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
0.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)
Hey Chris ...
Sorry i have been tied up in getting some legal proceedings started on a snake thief i am dealing with so havent had much free time the last sevreal days .
As to the kreg system ....
http://www.pocketholejigs.com/k2000jig.htm this site has the 2000 setup for a little less then Kreg will have it for .
As to the use of it you will never look at jointery the same again lol . Remember the HUGE wood & glass cage i posted some time ago for my buddies Argus monitors ? the unit was joined using the kreg system with NO GLUE WHAT SO EVER this was done so the unit can be disassembled and moved due to size if he sells or moves locations . that unit with glass weighs over 600lbs easily i have helped him move it in his store no less then 4-5 times without taking it apart by sliding it in place with glass in it and it has yet to show anysigns of failure with the kreg joints system It is actually IMO stronger then biscuits or dowels due to the angle of attachemnt the screw makes . I would if i were you opt for the kreg2000 setup what it offers is more versitility in thickness of jointery and the kit comes with many nice lil setups that the simple pocket model & clamp cant offer. the great thing about using that system is you can buy many different type wood plug kits for the holes to be covers which is glued & tapped into place then sanded and finished as needed .When using like a cherry with a dark purple heartwood plug creates a astounding rich and elegant look to the finish or you can use the same wood type plugs to blend them into the background so they are hardly visible to the eye when placed on the outside of peice . i think you will find that wood projects will go twice as fast using this system once you get it down and it will turn you on to endless amounts of joinery projects. you will need to make sure the screws you purchase are the washer head screws and the right ;engths for the depth hols & wood thickness or you will hqave screw points come through or the use of a "drywall screw" will fail due to the bugel head will work itself intl the "pocket it makes " and create a weak joint .. i use to have the neumatic kreg machine when i had my cabinet shop when i sold it all tools went with it ( i regret that now lol so i had to buy the 2000 for personel uses on projects but none the less worth it .
hope this helps and isnt to late for the info i gave lol
good luck and which ever ya get im sure you will love
Alan
-----
www.cheapcages.com
____
edited sig file 2/8/05
Man My cabinet shop would never make it with out out pocket jig. I use a bench mounting one that is made of aluminum. THe spread and the thickness are adjustable. It is from woodcraft and is cheaper than the plastic Kreg. We have a woodcraft here in Austin but you can also buy online at woodcraft.com
Travis
I like a 30" depth. I can still reach to the back wall for cleaning, and the extra space is quite significant for the animal.
I also like an 18" height. It's easier on the heat and humidity than 24" but still gives you ample entry room for cleaning and looking around. Good viewing, too.
Bill
i had just recently built a new cage for my six and a half foot male boa. although i can see how some might like doors that are hinged for getting boas out of cages, i highly prefer sliding doors. to me they are easier and much less dangerous being as most hinged doors that open either up or down are heavy and could possibly cause problems from a boa tail. since i am at college, my snake has two cages, one at my parents house and one in my appartment. i recently built the one at my parents house which i will post a picture of the raw framing. it is 4'x2'x2' but has a 6" false ceiling. this cage i prefer much more to the cage i have at my appartment which is 6'x2'x2' with hinged doors. i will be replacing the one at my appartment with the one from home and building a new one for home. by far this cage has been the best for my snake for the exception that i would suggest to use a full back and have a hinged top to access the lights as opposed to a hinged door on the back like i did on the cage i am posting. this cage also is very strong as it holds my 170lb tv ontop of it with no flexing at all. best part was this cage only ended up costing $150 and tured out very nice. ill be building at least two more cages similar to this over the summer so i can provide more pictures and help as needed. hope my huge reply helps.
jay
