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Regurge small BCC Guyana--3 months old-Help

hunterjackson Apr 14, 2005 08:52 PM

I have about a 3 month old Guyana BCC female. I gave her a small fuzzy mouse the other day, and she regurged it. The temps were right and the prey item was the right size.

I have had her for 3 feedings without any problem. The only change in enviroment was i moved her from paper towels to Aspen bedding, feeding her in a seperate enclosure.

Any thoughts on getting this bcc to eat?

Thanks!
Hunter

This is her. thanks!

Replies (12)

SuppleReptiles Apr 14, 2005 09:28 PM

Humidity, temps, cage type, etc????

I would treat the animal with nutribac and flagyl. Nutribac is great for helping them keep it down. Just because 3 meals where ok, doesn't mean everything was right. I would also try feeding rats instead, sometimes it helps.

hunterjackson Apr 14, 2005 09:36 PM

I agree with the rats...i had rat pinks, she struck, but wouldnt take them.

I have her in a rubbermade which is right for her size. 90 hot, 86 cool. Humidity is 60%.

do i need to go ahead and take her to the vet, or give it another try. IF give it a try, how long should i wait?

She is CBB.

Hunter

SuppleReptiles Apr 14, 2005 09:48 PM

Just make sure to go with a knowledgable one! They might do a swab to check bacteria levels and a fecal exam to check for parasites. Don't take it to any vet though, a lot do not know what they are doing when it comes to reptiles.

As for the animal being CBB... I am not true to be rude or question you but... I would say 95% of the BCC on the classifieds that are "CB" are captive born (not bred) babies from WC females. Even true CBB can have problems with bacteria and parasites. Again, this is not a question, just an FYI.

I would wait 2-3 weeks before feeding. Try dipping the head of a rat in chicken broth and see if that works. Feed very small meals for awhile.

I would treat with nutribac no matter what. It is just good bacteria that is found naturally in the digestive tract. When they gurge, they loose it.

You might want to try more of a heat graduate too. 86 is still pretty hot, 82 would be more ideal. Some have had better results with BCC on hotter hot spots. I haven't play with this, but you could try 95 on the heat. I have been keeping most of mine at 92 or so.....

I would also soak it in a pedialite and water solution. Fighting dehydration is one of the biggest problems with gurgers.

hunterjackson Apr 14, 2005 09:55 PM

Good deal!

I appreciate all the info, i have a wonderful vet who is a reptile specialist, Dr. Mark Foy of Columbia, SC. Very lucky to have him.

I soak in pedialyte etc a good bit here...its a great thing.

I will take her in on tuesday, i will be going in with a ball python.

Just so you know, and thanks for not being rude earlier, she is a CBB for sure...i know her parents from the breeder i got her from...and saw the litter. but i do agree parasites are problems in CBB animals also.

thanks for all ofthe help!
Hunter

Trueredtails Apr 14, 2005 11:17 PM

Hunter, Like Kemper said Nutribac! Works great and it can be mixed with pedialite then given oraly or injected into the next prey item. It is very important not to handle or feed for a few weeks and make sure she gets fresh water every night and the reason I say night is she may be too shy to drink during the day and she needs fresh water. You can also mix pedialite with the water. make sure she is as stress free as she can be and she has a hide spot. Did you buy the whole litter of Guyana's? Keep us posted and good luck.

-Dylan
-----
True Redtails

callmedaddie Apr 15, 2005 12:36 AM

Before you do anything you should contact the person that produced the boa to find out if the parents or siblings have had the same or similar symptoms. If the breeders are credible breeders then you may not have to worry about parasites. Findout background information first, I'm sure the vet. will find it usefull when you take your boa in.

SuppleReptiles Apr 15, 2005 12:41 AM

I don't care who you are, there is always a chance of parasites. Just because a breeder is reputable, doesn't mean every snake in there collection isn't carrying something they don't know about.

callmedaddie Apr 15, 2005 12:50 AM

Any credible breeder will quarantine their animals for long periods of time before introducing them to their colonies. Go ask Rich Ihle and Peter Kahl the last time they transfered parasites to their collections. If you don't know, the word credible means trustworthy.... if you don't trust someone, then don't buy your pets from them! Don't get butt hurt buddy, get a dictionary.

callmedaddie Apr 15, 2005 12:56 AM

And if you read my post right, I also said that the vet. would find the information helpful....... meaning that he should still have the animal looked at. What I meant was that no one should jump to conclusions before doing any research.

SuppleReptiles Apr 15, 2005 01:09 AM

to argue with you. All I am saying is that a snake bought from the most reputable (credible, trustworthy,determinative, honest, whatever term you prefer) breeder in the world still could have parasites. Snakes can live long, appearing healthy lives with parasites and show zero symptoms. No matter how long you quarantine, things can slip under the radar.

Don't rule out the snake has parasites (or anything else) just because of who you bought it from. Some people have bought some jacked snakes from good people, unfortunatly it happens.

Rule it out when the tests show it.......

Biophiliacs Apr 15, 2005 04:01 PM

I haven't experienced much in way of regurge syndrom for several years, even with wc specimens. IMO, internal parasites are a small time problem(if addressed) and easily treatable. If you had a high parasite load(pinworms, roundworms, tapeworms), there would be some evidence of that in the stool.. segments of worms or whole pinworms(have a float done if you are not experienced with parasites). Some localities(species) simply have more sensitivity in terms of what their stomach can contain. If I fed my Cental American varieties of boa as I do my South American types, they would puke every time. And rather than say feed your Guyanan every 10 days, I would go so far to say feed them only after they have defecated. In my experience this would apply to Surinames/Guyanans, probably Argentines as well. I can't stress this enough, after a regurge allow 10-14 days before the next feeding. The "reset" period is essential in stopping the regurge from becoming cronic.
Good luck-
Matt Schubarth
Pet Nebula
2100 Stephens #116
Missoula, Montana 59801
406 541 9929

hunterjackson Apr 17, 2005 08:41 PM

I ordered the nutri bac from beanfarm.com, still going to the vet for a de-worm etc. thanks to all who helped !
Hunter

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