Hopefully Bryan139 will see this and reply as well. He's the poster who turned me onto this stuff and its his girlfriend who has provided much of the detailed information.
But I have since been researching it as much as possible, including e-mailing friends of friends who work in the sign industry, so I believe I can share some helpful information. I was lucky to find one such person who did a major project for a zoo that needed graphics inside of enclosures, which I felt was especially helpful information.
I am going to home depot tommorow do you think they will have it?
No, definately not.
Is vinyl film sticky on one side or do i have to glue it on the wood?
Almost all vinyl films are self-adhesive, but there are some that still require a separate adhesive. I'm sure you can get all that figured out at a sign shop. More on adhesives later.
What I don't know is how much the sign shop will charge you. I plan to order a whole roll and sell any leftover to posters here on the forum. When buying an entire roll it will actually be cheaper than contact paper.
Is there anything else I should know before buying vinyl film
The cost of these films is related to how UV-resistant they are in a direct sunlight application and, in some cases, how well they adhere to irrgegular surfaces. For example, some of the more expensive vinyl films can be applied to painted concrete block and form to the texture quite well.
I don't think that feature is worth the extra money as most of the surfaces we use it on should be fairly smooth.
Regarding the UV resistance, don't worry about paying for that either. Even the cheapest vinyl films are rated for 4 years use in a vertical application in direct sunlight. You'll never duplicate that in an indoor reptile enclosure, even if you're using a powerful UVB bulb.
However, the products with higher UV ratings do have stronger adhesives which could be beneficial in some ways. But from the information Bryan provided me even this seems trivial. The people in the sign industry agreed. There is no advantage to the more expensive films for what we do. The only exception being some of the films made for decorating vehicles, but those tend to be quite expensive.
For example, Bryan covered a sheet of plywood with a cheap, 5-year vinyl and then later decided to cut that sheet down. He said it held up great when cut with his saw. With siliconed edges I don't forsee us needing a stronger adhesive/vinyl than that in a reptile cage.
One last thing on adhesives. If you're applying this to the inside of an already assembled cage, it might be very difficult to get the pieces to fit perfect and go on flat without bubbles, etc.
As I understand it some of the adhesives on vinyl film are water based. What this means is that you can spray a very small amount of water onto the surface of the cage interior before applying the vinyl. You may even want to include the smallest amounts of dish soap.
What this does is allow you to move the film around and get it perfect. It also allows you to squeegee and air pockets that form underneath out of the vinyl.
The ideal way to use this stuff is to apply it to panels of a cage before it is assembled. But if you can only apply to an already assembled cage I would ask and find a product that can be used with the water technique described above.
In summary, just get a less expensive vinyl film. You'll want a calendered product that is rated for 4 or 5 years.
You do not need a punched or perforated product, but it won't be a big deal if that's all you can find or get a good deal on it. The perforation only allows the film to be fed through one of those machines.
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Current snakes:
0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
1.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
7.6 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
0.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black & Tan)